Well, I'm looking to replace the rotors on my car, and I was wondering (price not being a factor), whats better? I'll be expecting the first few responses to be fairly straight forward, but I'd like to request the flaming start aprox half way down the page. Thanks.

Slotted, what kind of car is it by the way?

Quote from Ricerguy :

Slotted, what kind of car is it by the way?

Damn, I was really hoping nobody was going to ask. . . 2001 Honda CR-V (5 speed). You'll all laugh at me, but the general plan is to maybe do a little SCCA Rallycross next summer, and maybe an autocross or two (I know its an super narrow SUV, but its what I've got, and it does everything else I need it to quite well).

Slotted. Drilled is a waste of time unless you desperate about every gram saved, and don't mind replacing discs and pads very frequently. But I don't think slots will do much at that level of performance. Save your money and buy better pads on plain discs.

My bike's two front rotors are drilled and waved.

Rallycross in a CR-V? Really?

Knitted ones are clearly the best.

Quote from Forbin :

Rallycross in a CR-V? Really?

Yeah, sounds funny, but its not much different than the guy in our region who races a Toyota taco.

sounds quite fun to be honest

neither if you want to get decent brake pad life.

Quote from speed1 :

Yeah, sounds funny, but its not much different than the guy in our region who races a Toyota taco.

A CR-V and a Toyota Tacoma are vastly different vehicles. The CR-V is nothing more than a higher center of gravity Honda Accord. The Tacoma is a truck with probably the toughest and most dependable decedent in vehicles ever to be built (the Hilux.)

Can you get a CR-V with a manual? I was thinking they are auto only (much like everything over here anymore unfortunately.)

An overweight and underpowered pig of a small car in a Rally. That's good stuff (are we halfway down the page yet?)

Quote from mrodgers :

The Tacoma is a truck with probably the toughest and most dependable decedent in vehicles ever to be built

Until the frame rusts in half.

Quote from mrodgers :

Can you get a CR-V with a manual? I was thinking they are auto only (much like everything over here anymore unfortunately.)

I sure hope you can get one as a manual, seeing as I have one. I'm not overly concerned with durability (especially seeing some of the cars that run), I'm more concerned with the HSG. And actually, CoG is probably a bit lower on the CRV than the Taco.

Why not just buy a cheap NA Miata, or a Saturn S-Series or something?

plain vented disks
Pro's better braking power stonger disk's longer pad life,
Con's higher heat and higher chance of brake glazing (use really good brake pads and fluid)

vented slotted
pro's cleaner disks, stay cooler less chance of glazing
con's less padd life weaker brakeing(ie less contact patch) weaker disk's

vented slotted dimpled
Pro's cooler
Con's weaker (easyer to warp), less pad life, even less braking power (ie less contact patch)

vented cross drilled and slotted
Pro's stay cooler longer,lighter and look cooler
Con's weaker again, least braking power of the lot, less pad life,


more or less im sure u could add a few other reasons but thats basic's

from my experiance you could just upgrade the pads and fluid and ull be fine on the standed rotors

set of goodridge braided brake lines for my car cost me $130AUD shipped from the UK.
Massive increase in pedal feedback. Well worth the money.

Quote from tristancliffe :

Slotted. Drilled is a waste of time unless you desperate about every gram saved, and don't mind replacing discs and pads very frequently. But I don't think slots will do much at that level of performance. Save your money and buy better pads on plain discs.

This.

Just get better pads and put empty and refill the brake fluid if it hasn't been done in a while.

Avoid drilled discs. If you buy cheap ones manage to get them hot enough, the gaps in between the holes will crack, which will lead to the discs shattering next time you use them heavily.

Also, if you do get braided brake lines, make sure the joins and connections in the pipes are metal and NOT rubber. If there rubber, they are more likely to corrode and pop off when under pressure, but you won't see because the lines are under nice and shiny metal lining.

Instead of buying braided brake lines, i would first recommend checking everything with your braking system is 100% ok. Also, bear in mind that if you fit uprated pads, (depending on what type of ceramic they are) they will not work as well as your original ones in normal road conditions, as they will not be up to temparature.

E: Also, braided lines will not really make a difference to a car that has standard brakes. The people that say "Oh yes, made a difference to my car definetely! It brakes like a Ferrari!" are the ones that are only experiencing better brake feel because they have had to drain out there old sludgy brake fluid and refill it with fresh fluid, which in turn would provide a better brake feel on pretty much every car with old fluid.

i don't use brakes i can't comment on this one

sorry for no help

Quote :

Avoid drilled discs. If you buy cheap ones manage to get them hot enough, the gaps in between the holes will crack, which will lead to the discs shattering next time you use them heavily.

So these: http://www.c1store.co.uk/store ... 2f0e00705ffe7f30e6305539c are a bad idea?

Also, would Greenstuff pads on a normal car improve braking, or would it suck until they got temperature?

Go plain ventilated discs mate, you won't benefit from the other options unless you want the look of sloted rotors haha

Thanks for the help everyone. I've decided to go with some OE equivalent vented (nothing else) Brembo rotors and these: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes ... del=HPS+Street+brake+pads (recommended by someone I called for a price estimate).

^^+1


The only reason I had Brembo slotted-drilled on my 240 was they were a give away from a totaled car. However... they didnt kill my pads which were Hawk Pro pads. My 240 was auto-crossed, drifted and dragged with no issues in the braking department.

If the Drilled rotors are not top of the line, they will crack for sure as mentioned above. Honestly........ regular vented rotors will do you fine. I currently race/drift my Skyline with regular vented rotors with Nismo SS brake lines. I use Uras brake pads up front to help transfer weight forward easier when performing braking drifts etc.

Quote from wheel4hummer :

Why not just buy a cheap NA Miata, or a Saturn S-Series or something?

Several reasons.

1) I need a car that can carry 4 people, their mtn. bikes and their personal gear, as well as any other necessary gear. I know a miata cant do that.

2) Could you carry 800-1000 pounds of fire wood in the back of a Miata? (yes, I know, but thats what the CRV gets used for.

3) Can a Miata get through 8-12 inches of snow?

4) We already own the CRV, we know its history, and we know what the issues are with it.

Why would we sell that to get something that would poorly fit our purposes, and most defiantly be older with quite higher millage and more expensive insurance? I'm not saying its a great car, or even a good car, but it works just fine.

Quote from speed1 :

1) I need a car that can carry 4 people, their mtn. bikes and their personal gear, as well as any other necessary gear. I know a miata cant do that.

2) Could you carry 800-1000 pounds of fire wood in the back of a Miata? (yes, I know, but thats what the CRV gets used for.

A Saturn S-Series can, especially the wagon.

Quote from speed1 :

3) Can a Miata get through 8-12 inches of snow?

Can a CRV?

Quote from speed1 :

4) We already own the CRV, we know its history, and we know what the issues are with it.

Fair enough, but I was just making a suggestion as no-where in the thread until your response to my post was any use of the car listed other than Rallycross and autocross.

Quote from wheel4hummer :

Can a CRV?

Yeah. . . I said keep the flaming to the middle, but I probably should have said something about where the trolling goes.

my 0.02, plain flat rotors will give you the greatest friction area, so should theoretically give the best performance.
slotted rotors allow the brakes to apply faster and fade less.
drilled is for weight savings only.

good pads are better than the most expensive rotors money can by in terms of improvement.
i recommend hawks pads if you can get them for your car.
i use HP+ i believe, but they improved my initial bite by around 400%
it was amazing the difference good performance pads make.
sure, they put out tons more dust than "stock replacement" pads, and will probably wear out the rotors a few thousand miles early, but who cares.