Attached setup is the one I have been using for the FXO on Iron Horse Racing.

It suits my driving style for the most part but on the longer tracks (such as aston and fern bay variants) my front tyres are barely lasting 2 laps.

It seems to slide a lot in faster corners as well which obvously isn't good.

My question is: is the problem the setup or my driving style?

If anyone can get 5 laps out of this without the tyres going red on fern bay black then i'll know its me.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

First of all try using higher tyre pressures, 2.1-2.2 bar.

Also, by lowering the antiroll on the rear, due to the current lfs physics you should get more oversteer, which should help with not stressing the fronts that much.
I had a race on fe black with the fxo, but the tyres were constantly around 80-83 degrees (celsius) on the inside, but that was with locked diff. Was still driveable thanks to the massive oversteer on the setup.

check my signature and i will see if i can help you...i happen to have some good fxo setups, not wure about the tire lives but you know

Quote from csurdongulos :

First of all try using higher tyre pressures, 2.1-2.2 bar.

Also, by lowering the antiroll on the rear, due to the current lfs physics you should get more oversteer, which should help with not stressing the fronts that much.
I had a race on fe black with the fxo, but the tyres were constantly around 80-83 degrees (celsius) on the inside, but that was with locked diff. Was still driveable thanks to the massive oversteer on the setup.

Shouldn't it be raising the antiroll on the rear be oversteer inducing?

Thanks Logitek that is an excellent setup!

Quote from Neoman15M :

Shouldn't it be raising the antiroll on the rear be oversteer inducing?

Generally yes, was like that in S1 too. But for S2 and locked diff setups, all fwd cars have lower rear arb than front to induce more oversteer.
I never test with clutch pack, so it might work for that in S2 still.

What I've noticed people destroying their tyres are by using excessive camber. I'm not sure. If you observe closely, sets for burn outs that need excessive grip loss and the get -go use this trick. Excessive negative? camber on the back to induce oversteer. What happens as I observe in other people's driving (when I go spectate) is in the first lap, they have the outer spectrum red, inner blue, and outer green for example. If the whole tyre was used it'd be green - green - green, (etc). Tune the camber, and compensate with tyre compounds on the front and back respectively and again with anti roll bar tweaking for detail.

That's is what I do. Example: people put extreme camber on an XRG to drift. Me? Knobs on the back, Norms on the front, pump up rear anti - roll bar, and off I go. Ofc, this is in reference to my normal drift set. It may be different for others. It is mostly relative to the specific setup.

FXO... I'm not sure about that though. If you're racing that is as different story. However, drifting happily in FE Gold Rev for 15 laps without a blown tyre is better than some which blow in lap 3 =P. or even KV GP Long Rev for 4, 5 laps (haven't blown a tyre there yet.)

GenesisX

Quote from GenesisX :

If the whole tyre was used it'd be green - green - green, (etc). Tune the camber, and compensate with tyre compounds on the front and back respectively and again with anti roll bar tweaking for detail.
GenesisX

thing is that if you make it so that you can get green green green, it normaly means bad turning - +0 camber, which would be good for drags, but since he's having probs with turning at high speed, has a sensible amount of camber, -1degree maybe? also try to slow down for corners, that helps