I'm not really a hotlapper, so my r2's are gone after 4 laps.
It's probably because I'm a tad agressive on the brakes and pushing the tyres over the limit in corners.
You seem to do a heck of a good job there though, I see my temps rising to 140, then I can't take corners without sliding, thus pushing the tyres up to 190-200 degrees.
I have to say that I dislike the immense tyre temperature rise after a spin, and just the IMMENSE lack of grip at high temperature.
It says in the garage, optimum temperature: 85 degrees, so obviously they aren't going to work well when you heat the rears up to 120+. This is why you have R3 and R4 compound tyres, so that they can take the extra temperatures.
R2s are essentially a qualifying tyre for the 490bhp GTR cars in LFS, so most of the time R3s are used if you want to do any more than a couple of laps.
Also, you only have 145kPa front/rear tyre pressure, so no wonder your rear tyres are going to go off - have a look at the attached WR setup and you'll see the rears have full pressure (plus more camber and a totally different suspension).
Out of curiosity though, what were you expecting to happen to the tyres (especially with that low tyre pressure and that soft a compound)?
What the shit are you idiots talking about? He's trying to race a 500 hp FZR on R2 tires and that's where the problem lies. Since his join date is 2005 and he hasn't been that active he probably doesn't know that on patch Y the tires all went up a step in heat/wear etc.
FZR is no longer raceable on R2 tires (like it was up to 2008), excluding the very very poor setup that you used, put on R3s front and rear with following settings and you'll be fine:
Front: pressure 130 kPa, camber -2.5° live
Rear: pressure 190 kPa, camber -2.1° live
Comments on the rest of the setup:
1650 brake force is too low (1900-2000 more like it).
128 mm rear and 117 mm front ride heights aren't even used in WRC (90 mm rear, 80 mm front more like it).
Spring rates of 60 rear and 40 front are equally ridiculous (90 rear 80 front more like it).
Bump damping of 4.1 rear and 3.9 front is ok for the 60/40 springs but for 90/80 you should use about 8 rear bump and 6.5 front bump.
Rebound was too hard for old springs but should be left as it is for new springs.
Antiroll bars of 25 rear and 50 front on a car that has ~65 % weight on the rear is also silly, use 90 rear and 30-35 front.
Don't know what the wings settings are but they should be around 7-8 front and 13-14 rear (more likey 8-13 combination for AS4 to survive the "Eau Rouge").
Next time before starting a flame war on how tire temp has always been a weakness of LFS maybe check that the person isn't using qualifying tires in a race situation.
/edit What boothy said + differential is wrong, steering is wrong, caster is wrong..
scipy, thanks for reply I will create new setup based on Your advice
thanks for help!
boothy..
I often read that LFS users complain to tires physics but I saw that level of realism in Z28 are so large that You can race with R2@140+degrees, using like it scipy says "very very poor setup" hehehe
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sorry about my english
Boothy posted you one of my setups for AS4. Try that for a while, and if you are on mouse then I understand the brakes, put on around 1700 Nm and brake bias more forward.
scipy and boothy, thank You very much for Your advice scipy..Your setup is much faster than me but it's understandable You are professional - Your time @ this track are unbelievable!
I will prepare new setup based on You advice
boothy thanks a lot for this link - it will be helpful
Gentelmens, one more question:
- with software are to compare telemetry data ?
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sorry about my english
scipy, thanks for reply 
I will create new setup based on Your advice 
but it's understandable You are professional - Your time @ this track are unbelievable!