Included are soft-ish setups for all the road cars, and setup to be easy to drive, i.e. not stupid amounts of oversteer or understeer.

With the questionable default setups these should help beginners get to grips with a car.

Basically they are a half way between full-blown edgy race setups and the road going setups I made.

Happy racing.

Edit: Revision 4 is here, thanks for the ~3000 downloads so far, makes me smile. A shame the download counter is gonna get reset, but I'll have to live with that.

Edit: These sets understeer lots with patch T - they require revising to handle as intended!

Edit again: These sets will need renaming for use with patch Y and later! They still haven't been updated, either.

Thanks Bob, I'll try them out.

I have a lot of fun with your road going setups (because they are too "wavery" ). Maybe I can benefit from these even

Thx again

L56 Out...

Quote from Bob Smith :

Included are soft-ish setups for all the road cars, and setup to be easy to drive, i.e. not stupid amounts of oversteer or understeer.

With the questionable default setups these should help beginners get to grips with a car.

Basically they are a half way between full-blown edgy race setups and the road going setups I made.

Happy racing.

where do they go

Quote from chin chaw :

where do they go

Copy them to the settings folder in your LFS directory.

Cheers Bob. I allways feel a bit strange asking people for their setup's , I ask anyway though . These will help me out for those once off races in cars i dont normally drive !

That's a great gesture Bob, well done.


edit: There is much discussion about default setups and improvements to defaults for beginners, so I have made this thread sticky. I think these sets may help some rookies to develop more confidence and skill in various cars.

thanks for these

Nice one Bob, thanks.

Woo. 269 downloads, must be good then.

Anyway I've revised the pack, main change is to the FZ50, some people said it's too oversteery.

Hi Bob,

Thanks for the setups! Any chance of making easy setups for the openwheelers?
I use the default setups for the Formula V8 and they are quite good, only topspeed is to low (about 250 km/hr), online other drivers get >260 km/hr. I have no change at all with my default setups....

My PB at Blackwood GP is a low 1.07.xxx with the default setup.
At Aston Historic (god I love that track!!) my PB is a 2.20.xxx.... also with default setup. Hope you can help me!

Thanks, JeDa

There's really no such thing as "generic" sets for the cars with downforce, since downforce needs to be adjusted for just about every combo. I'm kinda 18 months down on experience with those cars which doesn't help matters either.

Maybe once I've raced them more and I know more about what makes them tick.

Thanks for these setups, now I can drive FZ50. With defaults I couldn't even keep it on the road.

Thanx Bob

I haven't got around to reply properly to your last post yet, but I've been playing around with setups for the GTi and here are my thoughts:

The GTi is so ridiculously easy to drive it barely needs an "easy race" setup at all. I do agree that by using a less locked diff the car is more throttle-steerable, and the lift off oversteer is probably best tamed more for a setup labelled as "easy".

However I don't agree that my that these setups are soft "like a family car", if you look at my road going setups you'll see the GTi is fitted with suspension nearly three times softer than the easy race setup in that case.

A brief analysis of your setup:
The locked diff produces horrible understeer when off the throttle, making it very hard to get the car to turn in, since lifting off the throttle doesn't give the desired affect. It makes it near impossible to get the car into oversteer. And frankly if you can't get the ass out why bother driving it?

Your GTi setup is indeed fairly easy to drive, but again I put the down to just about any GTi setup being easy to drive. Having looked at WR replays they use MUCH looser setups, and after trying such a setup it does help turn in lots. The majority of the WRs will not be too difficult to beat, particularly slow cars on fast circuits. Even with lots of oversteer the car is still quite easy to drive, but one thing I didn't want to do was add too much under or oversteer, this way you are introduced to the car in a more neutral manner and you can learn how the drivetrain affects car balance when on or off the throttle.

Anyway, I'm trying to keep this short. These setups are far more useful on the RWD cars, which can be very awkward to drive with the default setups (to say the least). I'll update the FWD cars (not that I really care for them) in a couple of days once I've played around a little more.

Many thanks for these setups. They have transformed my learning curve to one that now makes sense.
My laps are getting quicker by the hour and I feel almost ready to start tweaking for real now I REALLY understand/feel what the car is doing!
The only changes I made so far are softer braking power and I put the wheel lock to max. I get MUCH more feedback this way and much more opportunity to save a tricky situation.
Using DFP btw.

LFS(2) +these setups: simply makes you feel GOOD Cheers!

Bing-bong: revision 3.

FWD setups got a reasonable overhaul after the discussion above about their handling previously. Basically springs are somewhat stiffer, the suspension is generally more oversteer biased and the diffs are tigher (where possible).

RWD cars remain unchanged since the last update.

Quote from Bob Smith :

...
A brief analysis of your setup:
The locked diff produces horrible understeer when off the throttle, making it very hard to get the car to turn in, since lifting off the throttle doesn't give the desired affect. It makes it near impossible to get the car into oversteer. And frankly if you can't get the ass out why bother driving it?
...

For now, it seems the locked diff is the best to do fast times, because the LSD with clutch is doing some crazy things with the engine under braking and when turning. I use it on all car, and even if it is harder at 1st sight, you will always be faster with the locked one . (may be the viscous one can be used too, but I do not like it)

Crazy things? Like what for example. And I bet you don't use it on the UF1

It's certainly an improvement over the viscous diff, especially for FWD cars.

A locked diff shouldn't be faster, if it is then it points to the new clutch LSD as having a problem.

http://forum.rscnet.org/showthread.php?t=213816
there is one thread where we talk about that (on RSC).
And yes, there is only for the UF1 that I cannot use it (so I do not drive it ), but for all the others cars, I think it is the way to do the fastest times...

PS : I'm talking for 0.5P/0.5P2 , may be (I am sure) with future version that won't be the case

Yeah, definitely all the fast FWD's are better with locked diffs once you adjust your turn in driving style and setup. Must admit I havent tried it on the RWD's yet. I've got a race coming up with LX4's so I might give it a shot to cure this horrible turn in oversteer.

The floating Widget strikes again.......

Thanks Bob

thanks Bob, the RA turned into magic

Quote from 1993S14 :

thanks Bob, the RA turned into magic

Ha, eat that Tege!

Thanks for the feedback guys.

That doesn't need a guide. It can be summed up as simply:

* Softer springs for more forgiveable handling, with a slight bias towards understeer
* Ditto for ARBs
* Light diff locking under power for minimum of power oversteer while still being able to put down the power effectively
* High diff locking for coast so that there is more understeer when off the power, this helps when recovering from slides and also makes the car more steerable with the throttle (which can help you get a feel for the loud pedal)