yeah i sanded it all fully down first, for once i actually did prep work!
and it wont need lacquer as its solvent based as opposed to 2 pack stuff, shinyness is included
Psst, dont tell anyobody, but its actually dulux trade weathershield exterior gloss paint that i have used,thinned with some special thinning agent that a pro decorator gave me, and some sort of hardener so it goes off rock solid, as gloss usually stays slightly soft.
Cheers, i know its a bit of a pikey paint job but it sort of does the trick, good job its white over white, coz the consistancy i need to get the paint down to in order to not go orange peel effect is so thin (about 20% thinner / 80% paint) that the coverage isnt all that great, and its very runny at first, but give it about 10 minutes after its roughly applied to panels and then get rolling and moving it about to get it even and spread properly, the workability is lovely.
The other side is done now too, so that leaves the bumpers, which i shall remove to paint, they gonna need a lot of prepping too, as a couple of small dings that i filled and painted over on the drivers side last night are still visible because of the opaqueness of my thinned paint, and thats after 2 coats, and these bumpers are awful and will need completely stripping and some sort of undercoat applying, coz they are fibreglass, i dont think gloss will like going directly onto it.
And yeah klutch, the bonnet is creased, plus many dings and just generally had its day, when my friend bought the car about 5 years ago he got it quite cheaply as it was a category d write off, as the drivers side front wing was pushed in and the bonnet was damaged as you can see, the wing was replaced and youd never know that had happened, but the bonnet, although it has been straightened, will never look right.
All this 'mechanic experience' and it was deemed safer and better for the environment to put liters of oil into a motor that is known to be bad and spills more oil than the exxon valdez and taking it for a ride on public roads, rather than filling it up with cheap oil and some UV dye and let it idle/run with a drip tray underneath to spot leaks?
The 200sx I own has an exedy paddle clutch, that's bad enough in heavy traffic was just thinking if you had a clutch that is quite literally like an on/off switch, it's not gonna last too long on road driving