Haha, it's a fair point. My buddy suggested doing it for a picture to put on Facebook. I only accepted due to the fact that the bonnet has faded, and will need replacing when the car gets resprayed as it has caused contamination.
Trust me, once it's resprayed, no longer will i allow my lady friends to put there handbags on the trunk (which has metal decorations which scratch the paint...damn women!!) or allow my buddys to lean on it.
In fact, it's quite nice having a car with bad paint. You don't have to worry about someone dinging it in the car park, or worry about scratches it will inevitably pick up. The Lexus is a different story. The bodywork is 98% pristine. Therefore I detail it every week, park it away from other cars. Infact, i even get annoyed if someone rests on it while putting there greasy hands. I will only be the same with the Honda once it is resprayed...i cant see that making me popular!
Its hard to be a jerk about your car if it's not expensive or new. A lot of people don't have any pride in their vehicles.
My '86 Mercury just ticked over 240,000 miles. It could use a tuneup to regain some lost power but otherwise runs reliably. My goal/dream is to get over 1,000,000 miles from the original 5.0L engine.
That's what Bobby wants to do is turn it into a rotary.. in his dreams LOL
He can't afford it. But if he does it will be the first street one to ever do it.
As for OEM vs Aftermarket... the Dyson Racing MZR engine is the same as what is in my car, and it's running up against Aston Martin V8s in the ALMS series.. and beating them... with OEM parts.
Sure it's a blueprinted engine, but.. There is a difference between having the "right" part, when so many other people have run turbos on our cars (the MZR engine is MADE to be turbo).. yet his header warped a good quarter inch.
Last dyno day I videoed up near his house was a 350z with a 2JZ swap, running about that, mid 400s. But his car was also in the shop for that entire week.
Not something someone would do with their daily driver....
Besides; why does it always have to be about power?
Sure it can be more fun, but there's a point where you just have to give up and say.. it ****in' isn't worth the costs.
I'm getting a hypertech tuner from a Speed 3 owner in the area. It'll give me another 10 whp which is awesome.
See how that goes. Probably going to pull out my TB and grind it down some this weekend and also make my intake pipe for my intake this weekend too, out of fiberglass or some material.
It will have rubber grommets in there so it doesn't crack, not that it would to begin with. It isn't a structural piece, it will just be hanging there to direct air from my foglight to my intake.
If that's a map it's a terrible one. Take it to Rtech they got 149/264 out of mine. Smooth graph too. If that really is the same engine as a 320d they will get about 175 out of it without issue.
Don't believe everything some of these "tuners" say though. I had one guy say that from just a remap, I could easily get a 50hp gain from the Honda and Lexus, despite the fact they are both Naturally Aspirated and would be unlikely to get a 5hp gain, let alone a 50hp one.
I have a tuning box thing which has the same sort of net effect. Unfortunately, it also enables you to use a much cheaper and much more reliable type of MAF - so if I were to remove it, I'll need a new MAF sensor (£180 for the Bosch one...).
Having said that - unlike most of the eBay special tuning boxes, the guy who makes these actually knows his stuff. I'll have to have a look at some other rolling road graphs from other owners to see if that explains anything...
I'm currently thinking it could be something like a dodgy MAF or an injector problem (maybe). Seems to pull well enough, though...
I have to agree - there are loads of eBay ones that quote north of 160 or even 170 HP which are obviously made up. But like I said, the guy who makes these ones actually knows what he's doing (rather than just making it overfuel and hope nobody notices).
Engines the same, but the turbo is different - the 320d has a variable vane turbo, which makes more power (but is notorious for failing).
Depends what sort of tuning box it is. Most of them just bypass the fuel temperature sensor and make it think it's about -20 degrees so it floods the engine with diesel which, yes, increases power but also wrecks injectors and kills the turbo. Generally more fuel in = needs more PSI on the turbo to keep everything flowing. Maybe MG do the MAF exchange, at VW you can exchange your MAF and ends up costing about £80 You can also get MAF mapped out with a custom remap.
Ahh, I see. Makes sense I suppose. Nearly all VAG turbos are VNT and it can be a bit of a problem. Generally though as long as you don't labour your turbo for weeks on end it'll be fine. Generally mapped cars don't suffer from vnt failure (I say failure, what actually happens is carbon and soot deposits gung up and basically jam the control blades inside). Mines fine at the moment, touches wood (including my own portable plank)
You think he stuffed the figures? My dog could tell he stuffed the figures....
I highly doubt it depends on the engine either. If it's a stock naturally aspirated engine, you will almost never see any worthwhile results from just a remap.
Funny story, but I actually caught out that remapping fellow when he tried to sell his work. First i let him babble on about how he could give my cars more power AND economy, makes them more reliable etc...He then pointed to the Lexus and said "the engines in them are well tunable mate. I could easily get at least 50hp out of that...". "Wow really?" i said. "Just out of curiousity, how would you cover the inevitable damage caused to my gearbox after you have given it over 50hp more to handle? The clutch plates on these transmissions are pretty weak, and aren't really made to handle anymore than the standard 220 or so horsepower." He then laughed in my face and said "Haha. What you talking about? Just fit a racing paddle clutch or something.". This guy really must be a genius if he can fit a paddle clutch to an Auto!!
I then decided give myself another laugh. "I'm planning on getting the cylinder head on the Honda overhauled after christmas to gain a few horses. I will be porting and polishing the head, and fitting some upgraded cams/valves etc. I've discovered that the standard Honda OBD E.C.U system is pretty much untouchable to map changes. Therefore I need to fit independent engine management like Hondata and find someone to make a map for it....". With a blank look on his face, he said "Umm, ok. Well if you get it fitted and wired up, bring it to me. I will turn up the air and fuel mixture. Will have it running lovely.".
At this point I was trying not to roll on the floor in tears of laughter. I politely took one of his business cards (which politely went in the bin) and said I would be in touch. It's a scary thought that that guy has probably done some "remaps" on someones car before and has ****ed it up.
The numbers don't mean shit, go chuck it on any other dyno and youll have a reading that would be anywhere from 0-50 difference. Theres so many differing factors its not funny. The only thing you can take off a dyno chart is the power curve
You'll also notice that print out was "corrected" for a N/A petrol engine, not a blown diesel. The only accurate way to get a power reading is to bolt a dyno to the engine in a controlled lab environment. You know, sort of like the manufactures do when they make an engine. Not some guy in a shed who will use dodgy maths to guess power at the fly or any other corrections based on numbers he pulled out of his arse.
That, and dyno figures are easy to forge. The chart doesn't show ambient temps, intake temps, or even the ramp rate of the dyno... All of these affect the power reading.