Mine has the M43B18 engine though. I'm glad it's not the M40. There's room enough for two of these engines.
Mine has the M43B18 engine though. I'm glad it's not the M40. There's room enough for two of these engines.
I've had a 518i E34 to as a service car from BMW. Actually they drive pretty good and comfy!
E34 love! \/
/if anybody wants to try to seed through my problems, and questions about car audio feel free to...not spam, i hope 
http://forums.bimmerforums.com ... p?p=23167591#post23167591
http://forums.bimmerforums.com ... p?p=23167591#post23167591
Hahaha! I have you beaten! I have had this sucker sideways many times. Good old 6.5 Turbo diesel.
https://sites.google.com/site/ ... ?height=600&width=800
I have never had problems with open diffs going sideways and pushing very hard on twisties. It is not preferable but I am not spending $2000 on a LSD.
How's it a sucker when it's turbocharged? :P
Erm, why?
And my point still stands, locked diff is fine, for me to drive on anyway, fact.
I just paid 400 euros for a whole rear axle with an LSD. One of the good things of owning an old Sierra. Shamely it's just an viscous one but should do it's job decently after all I'm not building a drifter, just wanting to be able to put the power down to the road somewhat decently.
And about welded diffs, I think they're good if your only planning on going sideways everywhere but they're not the best if you want to do something else too. Welded diff has a habit of making the car understeer when your not driving sideways. But if there is enough power and you wan't to drift on every surface a welded diff is the best cheapo option.
I thought you own one of them.
ssssh 
better go and fill up your 316's LPG tank
better go and fill up your 316's LPG tank
hi5 man for that!
So.. for some reason my 1998 E36 is losing power sometimes. It has even gotten so far that it would just turn off while driving.
Today it happened again, it lost power (didn't turn off though!) while driving. Pressing the throttle in a little further made it regain its power again.
Does anyone know what it might be? I was thinking about something along the lines of the Fuel pump, the filter or maybe even the spark plugs?
Today it happened again, it lost power (didn't turn off though!) while driving. Pressing the throttle in a little further made it regain its power again.
Does anyone know what it might be? I was thinking about something along the lines of the Fuel pump, the filter or maybe even the spark plugs?
check the air boot,and the air hose that goes to idle valve first if its torn.could be lots of things tho.
ok i feel like im out of options, so il officially ask for your help here, i have a bunch of questions about setting up audio, and although i have a bunch of basic answers to my questions, i dont feel comfortable enough to go forward and buy anything.
all my questions are the last post on this thread, on bimmerforums.com
http://forums.bimmerforums.com ... p?p=23167591#post23167591
not sure if i should just make a new thread here, or what...trying to not spam this thread, but this is the best place to ask on this forum.
all my questions are the last post on this thread, on bimmerforums.com
http://forums.bimmerforums.com ... p?p=23167591#post23167591
not sure if i should just make a new thread here, or what...trying to not spam this thread, but this is the best place to ask on this forum.
Thing is,if u want to do that all by yourself and dont know much about audio,u could by the most expensive parts it wont sound right still. When u asked me it was only rear deck speaker.now its all audio system. why dont u take your car to an audio shop,and pick a head unit u like+tell them what system u looking for. like huge bass,or quality audio,and im sure they will hook up. where do u live? i know a place in lyndhurst,used to my audio guy before they moved from edison 
ps: btw only 1 link works from the last post there
ps: btw only 1 link works from the last post there
well it started off with that being my main concern, then i realized the dsp will make everything complicated; i didn't feel like flooding you with questions you may or may not want to answer, i figured i would toss the link out there, and if anyone wanted to pick a question to answer, they could...but now im kinda stuck because i need to know what to ask for for christmas (keep in mind i am only 16 :tilt.
my main concerns right now are if i buy all of that, it will either not be compatible, or not fit.
If i go to one of the audio 'experts' around here;
A. i feel like they wont know car specific, but more just how to 'make it work', through modifying, or just through knowing how it all works.
B. as a business, they will probably pressure me into buying something of theirs, or if i already have the stuff (which i just need to know if it will work before i buy it), they will want me to have them do the work. I would have them do the work if i knew they wouldnt hack it together, or if me and my dad couldnt do it ourselves after knowing what we are doing.
EDIT: and yeah, i copied and pasted from the first post, and i think the forum there shortened the links, so the copied links were wrong..
. my main concerns right now are if i buy all of that, it will either not be compatible, or not fit.
If i go to one of the audio 'experts' around here;
A. i feel like they wont know car specific, but more just how to 'make it work', through modifying, or just through knowing how it all works.
B. as a business, they will probably pressure me into buying something of theirs, or if i already have the stuff (which i just need to know if it will work before i buy it), they will want me to have them do the work. I would have them do the work if i knew they wouldnt hack it together, or if me and my dad couldnt do it ourselves after knowing what we are doing.
EDIT: and yeah, i copied and pasted from the first post, and i think the forum there shortened the links, so the copied links were wrong..
The amp is rubbish - Sony's amps havent been any good for the last 10 years, and $200 for 600w RMS is rubbish.
Your speaker wire looks pretty expensive - I can get 10m (~33 feet) of 2.5mm² (13 AWG) speaker cable on eBay for around £5 (~$8).
DO NOT BUY A PREMADE PORTED BOX! I cannot stress this enough! A ported box has to be designed specifically for the sub your using - i.e. the main chamber must be the right size, and the port must be the right size (volume / length) for the particular sub you want to use, or it will sound rubbish. I would start with a sealed box, as it's the easiest to make (so if you buy a premade one chances are it's going to be ok), and if it's not quite the right size it won't sound shit. Also, a lot of people don't like the sound of ported boxes (me included - I spent several days making the perfect box only to find out I hate the things!)
The subs look... ok, but nothing to write home about. Pioneers speakers are nothing special... for value bass, JBL GT5's get good reviews and can take a load of power.
No chance you could get some decent component speakers?
FWIW - you DONT need to match up the amp / speaker power perfectly. If your amp doesn't deliver enough power, when you drive it too hard you'll get distortion and then clipping which will kill the speakers. If you've got too much power, obviously you'll blow the speakers if you turn it up too much, but as long as your careful you'll get loads of headroom which means loads of clean power when your giving the speakers enough power. Most of my amps deliver 2x the rated power of the speakers.
On a related note, I took my bumper off the other day and found this:
It's around the top of the intercooler, and only on the passenger side... could my intercooler be shot?
I doubt all of Sony's amps from the last 10 years have been shit. This sounds like 'accepted wisdom' to me.
Also 600W output from an amp in a car is way more than you'll ever need, assuming that your speakers are reasonably efficient (speaker efficiency, dB per watt at 1 metre, is never talked about but important for obvious reasons and varies quite a lot) and fitted to an enclosure which makes the most of them.
Bear in mind that to gain 3dB of sound pressure you typically need to double the power supplied to the speaker, so if you've got a speaker that produces 90dB/W at 1m, you will need 2 watts for 93dB, 4 for 96dB, etc. More to the point if you've got speakers rated 3dB higher, you'll need half the power from your amp to achieve the same sound pressure levels.
Anyway, from the example above we can assume that even with fairly inefficient speakers you will have unlistenable levels available for about 250W of supplied power. Your amp may be nowhere close to clipping and your speakers well within their operating limits too, but your ears would be the weak link. Don't **** your ears up.
Just saying.
Boooooh
Meh, the Ram was only a V10 :'(
Currently deaf out the left ear. <3 screamer pipes
200kph+ in the tunnel, 200+ with a widebody FC right behind us.
Many skids dropped, diff isn't too happy...seems to clunk when turning now, And its so bad that it makes the car shudder lol
What a good day this was haha
200kph+ in the tunnel, 200+ with a widebody FC right behind us.
Many skids dropped, diff isn't too happy...seems to clunk when turning now, And its so bad that it makes the car shudder lol
What a good day this was haha
Yeah. Fun.
Ruined ear, ruined car, speeding.
That's what you get for shipping ex-cons over there...
Ruined ear, ruined car, speeding.
That's what you get for shipping ex-cons over there...
u mad bro?
come at me
some guy took a pic of us coming out a carpark sideways, hopefully i can track it down haha
come at me
some guy took a pic of us coming out a carpark sideways, hopefully i can track it down haha
Entering the carpark..
Blasting past a widebody satin black FC3s at the....speed limit...>.>
Random;
Blasting past a widebody satin black FC3s at the....speed limit...>.>
Random;
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