Only mods were;
Extractors
3" Straight pipe into Magnaflow dumpy tip
Ratsnest&Emissions gear all removed
14x6.5 watanabes (fronts sit flush with guard..rears were in a bit)
Rest of the money was just spent fixing it and slowly restoring it until i had to sell it >.<
Yeah the set I had went after about 5 months but they went about a week after I changed over my bulbs (as I swapped headlights) so I presume it was because of me.
So.... I need 4 new tyres for my Ford Focus (mk1.5, 1.6l), got Pirelli P6000s on the front right now that have lasted about 18 months (about 10k miles - alignment is out after dodgy trackrod got replaced and forgot to get it realigned). Rears I've had on the car since I got it 4 years ago (some unbranded crap Ford gave me)
Anybody recommend tyres for me? size 195/60R15 if I remember rightly. Budget of about £250.
Goodyear Excellence I had in 195/65 before I changed to 17 inch wheels. Very good. The p6000s are rubbish. Unfortunately it's hard to find sporty rubber in sizes which such a large profile and the excellence is one of the best you can get. a pair with fitting and tracking cost me £140 so you should be able to get them online for that.
I can understand that if you put more load on the vehicles electrical system, you might want to upgrade the batteries earth (i.e. a large ICE install)... but all the "reviews" I can find are all of virtually standard cars, and all seem to claim that somehow it makes the car more "responsive" or "shift better"...
The crazy thing is, these things sell for ~£60? For a few metres of 8+ AWG wire?
Cheers guys, was looking at Firestones and Hankook's, Conti's are a little out of price range for 4... Considering doing Conti front and something cheapish on the rear again.
Never heard/seen of anyone upgrading just the battery earths for a large sound system, normally its the Big 3, which is in 0 Gauge and not 8 Gauge.
You can get 8 Gauge wire for about £15, so it would probably be worth doing just to see if this multiple ground thing actually works. If it works then happy days, if it doesn't then you only lose out on £15.
"The big three" consists of the alt's ground, and the batteries ground (and also the alt postive)
I've got loads of 4AWG (and even 2x5M 0AWG runs) spare... but I just can't see a point using it.
Firestones = firebomb just check out their history!! Some of the hankook ones are OK, kumho too... Consider the falken ze912s they are quite good as well and cheap!
To be fair I don't think the real issues and dangers on track days have anything to do with novice drivers who need initial tution. On the track days I've been to I don't think a novice session has even been red flagged, new drivers tend to pootle round fairly slowly keeping themselves out of trouble, certainly giving new drivers a few minutes on track before the 'experts' come out to play in an open pitlane session is probably advisable.
Expert sessions are a totally different story, the fastest track day cars are now lapping much faster than most cars seen in UK club motorsport and are often driven by inexperienced drivers who start their track day career with a 400+bhp racing car. When people crash on track days they hit just as hard (or often harder due to inexperience/the fact the cars are so damn fast) as in a normal race in cars that are no where near as safe, with a lot less driver protection (and they often bring a passenger along for the ride) and the emergency response is nothing like that at a race meeting. The worst accident I have ever seen at a race track happend during an expert session of a track day.
This. I love how in the UK road rallies stipulate a full interior. It makes the car so much more liveable. There are still circuit racers in the UK who race with full/part interiors in cars they drive to circuits (admittedly they're a dying breed). Why you would want to strip the interior out of a car that'll probably never be used for competition is beyond me.
Whilst 140kg is a lot of weight to loose it'll still be heavier (and physically bigger) than an older car with a full interior, why not just start with a lighter car that is far better suited to track work?
I once raced a Ford Cougar in non-contact oval racing in an unlimited capacity NA FWD class, after stripping 400kg out of it (including all glass, sound deadening, fuel tank, lots of metal out of the rear end) it was probably still the heaviest car on the grid.
Everyday tyres put Continental or (if you can afford them) Michelins on it. Alternatively Bridgestone/Goodyear/Pirelli/Yokohama will all be perfectly good for general road use. Toyo's everyday road tyres are the best of the budget brands (and are routinely getting fitted as original equipment now).
If you want something sporty then Toyo T1Rs are ridiculously cheap in 195/50/R15s from Camskill, about as good as you'll get without forking out for semi-slicks.
What a silly statement.
I suppose you also regard the Focuses fuel tank likely to explode in a rear end impact? Do you still avoid air travel after the Comets fell out of the sky?
