Hello guys!
I just bought this wheel and im not very happy with it's force feedback.
Its damn stiff/strong/hard to turn, even when it has no power at all.
I setted everything up with the software from www.thrustmaster.com but i cant get any result, its a hardware, not a software problem.
Im trying now to modify it a lil bit. I tried playing with the cog belt unplugged to the motor and i could turn the wheel with my little finger, but i dont want to play with no counter-steering at all.
So i'm trying now to grease the cogwheels and see if the wheel gets easier to rotate, but im not so confident.

Im looking for pics or threads with this type of modifications.
The wheel is very very strong if i set the ffb at max. It brakes my arms, or if i hold it tight my desk will shake really bad. Also playing LFS with this is not great.
I need something that makes the rotor less powerfull and increase its speed of reaction.
I want to turn the wheel with one finger but still have ffb for counter-steering.
Help?

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/823/dscf3713g.jpg/

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/803/dscf3715h.jpg/

Hey there!

I've been driving with this wheel for ages before I got my fanatec, and I can tell you the rgt is a brilliant little wheel once you get it broken in!
Yes, at start everything seems a bit too tight, but after a few hours of playing it will become much nicer. There will be no play in the bearings like with the g25/27 and the ff will be better. All it really needs is some playing.
I've opened the wheel just after warranty, lubed the bearings and cogwheels a bit and found everything was still tight and on its place.

greetz

der butz

Thanks for advice!
I understand you, but i cant really drive with this.
The ffb is tottaly different from a real car. I know what i say.
Lets say i can get used to its brutal force, but it doesn response as i would want.
I want to remove all the shaking, or vibrations effects, and remain only with the counter-steering feedback. Is that possible? I want to make it smooth and linear when its turning from a lock to other. Its giving me some little shocks.

can't you deactivate those effects in the driver settings? At least the Logitech drivers allow that, dunno about Thrustmaster.

No, Thrustmaster's software is very limited in user's settings and choises.
Also looking for a software to mapp my wheel from 0.. i hop you know what i mean.

Hey Mr. Tuning,

It seems you have a problem I hadn't when I raced with the wheel. How did you set the different stuff like agressiveness and center spring force? Just type in the settings here, I will try and search for the screenshot I did a few years back to remember my settings.


greetz

der butz

Hey Mr.

http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/5549/76959354.jpg

Agressivity is set to 40% but whatever i'd set it the feedback is the same, all that matters is Static.

Your wheel was already opened, and wasn't properly fixed!!!!

You are missing one of tension bearing (ok, name might be wrong.. but not sure how it's called) on left side of motor!
To make it more understandable, you are missing thing circled in red, which exists where green is circled!

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/209/fixiti.jpg/

You might be right but i also doubt about it.
I dont even care no more, i'll drill some holes into the metal plate and connect the motor directly to the wheel axle cog.
I'll post some pics.
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/438/dscf3718f.jpg

Quote from CZRTuning :

FFB setup screen

have you tried setting everything to 0% except Master (including Auto Center, you never know)? And uncheck that "Optimized effects" box.

Quote from CZRTuning :

You might be right but i also doubt about it.

Not 'might' be right
I got Thrustmaster F430 FFB, and had to replace belt, so know how it looks inside.
You definitely are missing that part, and due to this your wheel has much more resistance to turn.

So some idiot forgot to put that back
Im almoust done with work, i spent 45min to drill that metal plate with the wrong tool.. pics a bit later.
Thanks for replys, m8s!

Working in progress
I accidentaly broke one of the potentiometre's wire that touched the CPU and it started smoking like a rastafarian..
But the LED turned green, it cooled down and everything works, except of the potentiometer wich i have to fix now.
http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/9811/dscf3727v.jpg

L.E: I think the potentiometer is broken now..
It actually works, not totaly broken, but it shows the wrong data. I will try to re-stick the wires.

where can i found one of theese? need it brand new.
http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/1369/dscf3728d.jpg

Ebay is probably easiest, you need the markings off the side to get the correct resistance.

Hundreds of pages on ebay for potentiometers, a cheap alps would work ok but it should really be a servo pot (low friction and high life). Whatever, it needs to be linear type, probably 5k or 10k ohm (should be written on the side) and it looks a 1/4 inch shaft with 10mm threads.

**** yeah, u are a genius!
I founded the thing i need just before to read your post.
Its 10Kohm resistance, 5mm shaft diametre, 10mm thread. I will keep the shaft from the old one i think.
Look at this, its just what i need and its only 4 euros.
http://sigma.octopart.com/524512/image/ALPS-RK09711110K.jpg
Thanks a lot man!

Edit: I think its actually a PCB mount, not a servo one, but it still has an oil in it (testet myself), so you are right!

Quote from CZRTuning :

I will keep the shaft from the old one i think.

Unlikely you can change them, it would need to be the right diameter even if you have to file the flat part yourself.

Quote :

Look at this, its just what i need and its only 4 euros.
http://sigma.octopart.com/524512/image/ALPS-RK09711110K.jpg

Thats a 6mm shaft model, the 7mm threads shouldn't be much trouble though.

Quote :

Edit: I think its actually a PCB mount, not a servo one, but it still has an oil in it (testet myself), so you are right!

If it feels stiff to turn its a panel mount type (meant to be turned by hand and hold its position, think PCB mount means the same thing), servo types turn freely. The stiff ones might work loose when your using the wheel and could eventually damage the mountings but will be ok for short term. Servo type are harder to find and usually cost a bit more but it would be worth getting one once you've got everything working.

EDIT Just had a look through the radiospares book and didnt see any pots with 5mm shafts, farnell or sparkfun might have something and there is a good chance someone on xsim has found replacements.

just solder it back at the tip of the broken part it should do the trick without replacing one

hey all - i own a thrustmaster rgt / clutch - i was happy w/performance initially, but noticed that over time (10-12 months) the wheel had become "jumpy" or "jittery" - not necessarily with FFB, but, when you were calibrating the wheel in setup, it would jitter around bad, going back and forth - and when you were driving, it was near useless - the driver looked like he'd had one too many coffees/car parks =)

SO!

i'm here to testify, dear friends, that you can definitely open the thing up, and strip it pretty much down, (just keep removing screws) and replace that pot at the end of the wheel - it's a 16mm / 10K linear taper; the one i ended up getting was a wee long, but was easy enough to hack to fit =)

I ended up redoing the wiring from the PCB to the replaced pot, too; the very small length of wiring GLUED [grrr] to the PCB was barely enough to reach the pot, so. work, work, work.

Thanks to the OP for pics of the innards of the RGT, which got me off my butt =) Happy to report zero jitter in the calibration setup now...nice and smooth! [1]

if anyone's had similar issues with their RGT, send me mail, maybe I can lend some support...


cheers! peace!


/caz


[1] just in time for the fanatec wheel and pedals to arrive. <koff> IT WAS BROKEN BEFORE

Hi, I have the Thrustmaster RGT FFB also, and ya the Force Feedback can be really stiff, best thing to do is to turn down the feedback in the game, dampening to 0 then play with the force.

But I was wondering if you knoticed a way to remove the insert to the screw for the clamp. Only because I think I stripped that because my tabel is curved and its hard to get it to go on. So if you know if you can or not, just pm me please.

Guys please help,
The clamp nut holder inside the wheel case craked and broke, the wheel is almost new but since a got it the thing does not hold firm on my desk, I must have tightened to much.
Can I open the case to replace / fix the nut holder? any diagrams, photos instructions?
Or any other alternatives for seting the wheel on the table ? (I see two more holes on the base of the wheel)

Thanks!

Hi.

I need some help. I lost my wheel power adapter.
Can someone post a picture or the specs of the power adapter of this wheel?
Thanks so much.