blocked cat?

is the MAF an aftermarket part? did you check the connectors?

Quote from danthebangerboy :

Boot lip spoiler on, a small subtle mod that brightens the rear end up a bit, ordered off ebay, comes pre painted in the colour of your choice, colour match is bang on, took only 4 days to arrive from taiwan and cost just 21 quid, that'll do me!

How much PITA was it to install that thing? Im thinking about getting one for myself, too.

Quote from kimd41 :

Its a Polo yea. Chrome lines on the front like the Sport version:

It's got Spanish plates on? What's up with that?

Quote from BlueFlame :

It's got Spanish plates on? What's up with that?

I live in Spain since a lot of years.

Quote from danthebangerboy :

It is still much slower than i think it should be, and those who have also driven it agree that something must be up, its been on a machine and there was a code for faulty MAF and also an EGR valve fault code logged too, so i fitted a brand new MAF, and removed the EGR and cleaned it as per the DIY guide on one of the BMW forums, so i then went and had the codes reset again (driving home from the original diagnosis obviously caused those codes to re appear and be logged again after he cleared them the first time), then re checked 2 days later and they hadnt re appeared, so according to the car there is no fault anywhere, yet its still gutless, i just cant work it out, i might be wrong, maybe the 136bhp ones are just this slow, but having had 2 mechanic mates take it for a run, and there reactions both being along the lines of ffs dan, whatevers the matter with that, wheres the torque gone!?!?!? makes me think its not just me.

which engine do you have? guy I know had a inline-6 beemer that came with a variable intake manifold, once the valve that normally opens at a certain rpm stayed open completely and robbed torque at lower rpm.

Quote from kimd41 :

I live in Spain since a lot of years.

Location says Bulgaria?

Quote from ACCAkut :

which engine do you have? guy I know had a inline-6 beemer that came with a variable intake manifold, once the valve that normally opens at a certain rpm stayed open completely and robbed torque at lower rpm.

It's a 320d iirc

Quote from BlueFlame :

Location says Bulgaria?

Fixed.

Quote from kimd41 :

Fixed.

Quote from Scrabby :

Oh yes, bought new wheels



17x8.5 ET13
17x10 ET15

that'd have to be the front yeh? the 10 +15 must be busting out some dish?

Not much has changed from the outside lol

Quote from nisskid :

that'd have to be the front yeh? the 10 +15 must be busting out some dish?

It's not the exact picture of the wheel but it's the same.

Yeh, the 8.5J is for upfront. I'm running allot of lock so a half inch smaller with a little lower ET and small spacer is way better then my 16x9 ET15 with 5mm spacer now. Occasionally hits something inside and want resolve that. Also 17'ers are a bit better for my setup atm

Love the new movies man

Quote from BastianB :

How much PITA was it to install that thing? Im thinking about getting one for myself, too.

Very basic to fit, comes with adhesive tape already on the underneath of it, all you have to do is line it up before pressing it down, pull the backing tape off, start from one end and stick it down whilst curving it to match the line of the boot (they are dead straight when they arrive) and thats literally it, just take your time when fitting it and be sure that its all lined up and central before you start because once its stuck it aint coming off again, very good adhesive strips.

And as for the performance thing, god only knows, theres no fault codes stored anymore so its nothing MAF or EGR related as it would surely throw a code if it was?

Its had an oil change and a dose of injector cleaner since i bought it and it does seem a little better, especially when warm, itd dead on its arse when its cold still though..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQE8DoAC-z0

Granted, its not quite as bad as this now, but still pretty poor, my first job will be to get the cat off and replace with a decat pipe, if it goes like a rocket then i know that it was the cause.

Had a Rolling Road meet with my 106 Club.







Not impressive, but not bad for a 1.1 8v

Quote from danthebangerboy :

And as for the performance thing, god only knows, theres no fault codes stored anymore so its nothing MAF or EGR related as it would surely throw a code if it was?

It's a bit difficult to tell from the low res shaky video, but isn't that yellow light in the bottom left the MIL? If so, it has to have fault codes stored, it wouldn't light up otherwise.

@ Dan

Hmm... Electronic throttle sensor?

Quote from morpha :

It's a bit difficult to tell from the low res shaky video, but isn't that yellow light in the bottom left the MIL? If so, it has to have fault codes stored, it wouldn't light up otherwise.

That light is to tell me that the coolant level is low, it isnt actually low, its just that the sensor isnt connected to anything, theres a socket on the end of the sensor, but no plug or wire anywhere on the car to connect onto it, which there obviously should be, and i cant re route a new cable to the sensor as i dont know where the wiring for that sensor is meant to run from, although i am assured that the sensor failing for the coolant level is a common thing in any case and doesnt cause any performance issues, just the annoying light, the airbag light and right hand front bulb error lights are now out too, fitted an occupancy sensor bypass unit to turn the airbag light off, and the bulb out warning, blown sidelight bulb

all i know is your running on no coolant. add some before engine blows

Edit : seen your post now... you can find the wiring by the left headlight.it runs down next to shocktower towards the headlight,and than it separates from the harness into just 2 small wires. usually people mix it up with the outside temp sensor. good luck

Looks like limp mode to me Dan, or your running with a broken MAF or with it unplugged.

MAF problems don't throw fault codes in VW's when they're faulty, unplug the MAF and see if it makes a difference to the running of the car, if it doesn't replace it. Though if it doesn't make a difference spray some electrical contact cleaner on it first. Might just be a bit of crap on it.

Check your vacumn pipes tbh, probably a perished pipe or small hole somehere.

http://www.bmwland.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=95667

Has it had a new turbo fitted in any part of it's life? Or any part that uses vacumn hoses? Maybe they were re-installed incorrectly. For the price of the hoses i'd probably just replace them all anyway

IF i would buy a new car, which i was thinking to be finally some more powerful rear wheel/4x4 drive, maybe japanese, where i should start to looking for those import japanese cars? havent find anykind of Finnish website yet, so maybe some other website then?.. And no, dont want to look anything else right now, just nissan, lexus etc.

Thx!

Your post lacks grammar, but i hope this helps.
http://www.japanimports.fi/
http://www.japanmoottorituonti ... ikka.php?id=14&kieli=
http://esv.fi/
http://www.mamasan.fi/

So does yours. As long as you understand what he's saying, it shouldn't really matter.