no, not at all. The races are super short sprints (5 to max. 10 laps on a 800m track).

Quite a few front engined cars place the rad in the boot too, to protect it from damage (intentional contact is forbidden, but crashes happen non the less), and that reroute adds so much capacity that engine heat is normally the last thing to worry about. Our Polo leaked all the time, we added 1 to 2 liters after every race

Sometimes cars ended up engulfed in steam on track, limped/got towed back to paddock, and a few liters and meters of gaffa tape later they started in the next race

Quote from Tinytacohead :

jordyb, let's hear/see more of that sexzy van, err, I mean the car. (sorry, I don't twit)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yPBVu2SQ0s&feature=plcp bang bang.
Temperature was low, that's why the revs sound weird.

Quote from lukelfs :

Why wouldn't you heel toe downshift? or just rev match the downshift?

Not sure if you know this, but rev matching and double clutching have nothing to do with each other. Double clutching is only for shifting up, rev matching is for shifting down.

On old trucks (and some cars) you needed to double clutch to shift up, as the transmissions didn't have synchros. The Ford Toploader transmission on my dads '67 Mustang pretty much required double clutching for speedy gear changes.

Rev matching/heel & toe is for when you're down shifting to keep the drivetrain and engine rotational speeds close to each other to prevent judder.

Quote from Matrixi :

Not sure if you know this, but rev matching and double clutching have nothing to do with each other. Double clutching is only for shifting up, rev matching is for shifting down.

On old trucks (and some cars) you needed to double clutch to shift up, as the transmissions didn't have synchros. The Ford Toploader transmission on my dads '67 Mustang pretty much required double clutching for speedy gear changes.

Rev matching/heel & toe is for when you're down shifting to keep the drivetrain and engine rotational speeds close to each other to prevent judder.

Ah my bad, I had a look online but only found double clutch downshifts, nevermind

Quote from Matrixi :

Double clutching is only for shifting up, rev matching is for shifting down.

Not true. Double-clutch shifting can be done both on upshifts and downshifts. The following quote is from Ross Bentley's shifty techniques BMW driving instruction article:

Quote from Ross Bentley :

What is double-clutching? Basically, it is where a driver depresses and releases the clutch twice for each shift. It can be used for either upshifting or downshifting, but generally only for downshifting.

Bentley has written extensively on race driving and performance road driving and has decades experience as a racing driver. I'm inclined to believe he knows what he's talking about.

Of course, double clutch shifting (on the up- and downshifts) is either necessary or very beneficial on the life of the drivetrain in vehicles without synchromesh, but it can still be useful on cars with synchromesh, especially if the synchros are worn, as Bentley notes:

Quote from Ross Bentley :

That's why I say it is unnecessary to double-clutch [on cars with synchromesh]. But, if the syncros in your car's transmission are beginning to wear out, doubleclutching can extend their life a little longer and make it easier to get it into gear.

i sometimes do 1.5 clutching going 4th gear, depress clutch, rev up, put in 3rd and release clutch. all this ligtning quick

Quote from amp88 :

Not true. Double-clutch shifting can be done both on upshifts and downshifts. The following quote is from Ross Bentley's shifty techniques BMW driving instruction article

You're being slightly pedantic, but I agree. Most common usage of double clutching is however for up shifting.

And yes, it helps a lot when synchros are worn aswell. I had to double clutch the Skyline all the time when the transmission was cold and I was driving in the city (constant 1-2-3 gear changes). Otherwise it was almost painful to force the gears in, with double clutching it was as smooth as silk.

ffs guys, be a man and use those muscles

Quote from ACCAkut :

there was an autocross event last sunday, and one of my friends arrived with something rather unusual

Not so different to the autograss racing we have over here, this is a class 7...

Quote from Matrixi :

On old trucks (and some cars) you needed to double clutch to shift up, as the transmissions didn't have synchros.

also to add to the pedantry of amp you dont actually need to double clutch without synchros as without synchro rings you also dont have anything that physically prevents you from jamming the dogs together either through brute force or some approximate revmatching (and slightly less brute force)
not good for gearbox life but it is faster than clutching which is why its sometimes used in racing (eg f1 if im not mistaken)

I was talking about the downshifts where he grinds the clutch to keep the rear wheels from losing grip instead of giving the engine some revs and release the clutch quickly.

From how I understand things I see no point in double clutching for upshifts because all you have to do to match revs is "wait" for the engine to slow down.

Same old car

Quote from doyal :

Same old car

Give it to me if you dont like it!

Btw.. what peoples think about mitsubishi legnum? was making some future plans in here..

Quote from Tomson(FIN) :

Give it to me if you dont like it!

Btw.. what peoples think about mitsubishi legnum? was making some future plans in here..

Love how they look from behind

Quote from Tomson(FIN) :

Give it to me if you dont like it!

Btw.. what peoples think about mitsubishi legnum? was making some future plans in here..

is it an estate version of the Galant? if so, go for it.. has a lot of potential in the gh!no department.

Quote from el pibe :

is it an estate version of the Galant? if so, go for it.. has a lot of potential in the gh!no department.

Makes me chuckle every time

i like that ass,and yes it looks very good lowered.actually i'd take that car on the pic

**** ladas. ladas are bad. never buy one.

this particular lada doesn't obviously want to get rid of me.


intake valves(correct me if i'm wrong, i don't know the english word for them) are completely bent. exhaust valves are strangely still straight.

hopefully i'll be able to restore it, then it's on it's way to MOT and selling.

At DUMPd 2012

NOTE: last image is big (for some)

Quote from nikopdr :

**** ladas. ladas are bad. never buy one.

this particular lada doesn't obviously want to get rid of me.


intake valves(correct me if i'm wrong, i don't know the english word for them) are completely bent. exhaust valves are strangely still straight.

hopefully i'll be able to restore it, then it's on it's way to MOT and selling.

why spend money on it? just junk it. wont get much money for it anyways

Quote from e2mustang :

why spend money on it? just junk it. wont get much money for it anyways

MOT'd lada with a restored engine = 800€ (winter = more demands for RWD)

junk = 100€


select one

and besides, why take something to scrapyard because it's not working at that state? it is fixable, i want to gain more experience, fair deal

well have u gone deeper to the problem? valves dont just bend. it could be more money to repair than you would get for it.from the pic looks like its full of coolant,thats bad. just a thought,correct me if im wrong

Quote from e2mustang :

well have u gone deeper to the problem? valves dont just bend. it could be more money to repair than you would get for it.from the pic looks like its full of coolant,thats bad. just a thought,correct me if im wrong

yes, it's full of coolant. could be anything. but still, the parts for a 1500cc lada engine are so cheap here, i could get a running motor for cheap. so if i f*** the engine up, i will still make profit buying a new engine and replacing it, than just scrapping it.

in that case everything is fine

Slap a 1.7 from Niva into it!