Quote from jrd.racer :

A good setup for brakes? wat? Have you calibrated you pedals properly ingame?


Nope.

I havent asked for A setup,i asked WHAT is a good setup for brakes in options.OFC i calibrated pedals good,but i touched the brakes like 10 mm down and they lock up. And since im racing with the ridicoulus specracer,its very crucial to have good brakes. The brake curve slider seems to have no effect what so ever for me. So what to set the slider for? what % F/R brakes in setup?

Ok, in the SRF my Brake Bias is 63%, and my brake force factor slider is 1.87 (well one of the setups I like)

From about 70mph I can press the brakes to about 70% before I start to get any lockup.

And yes I knew you were talking about brake setup in options. But there is really nothing much other than Brake Bias. Some other cars have brake pressure settings and ABS settings but not the Spec Ford.

You can try this set, not sure if it will make any difference.

2012 S4 Watkins Cup 1.28.3xx.rar

Ill try that. Tho brake assistance works is "test" not in qual or race. The more i find out about this game the more bullshit it gets.

I have that problem to when driving any car, but after a lap orso it brakes normally.

Quote from Scrabby :

I have that problem to when driving any car, but after a lap orso it brakes normally.

You must calibrate your pedals every time you start iRacing by fully pressing the brake and throttle.

Or you can buy Bodnar cable to get rid of it and gain awesome precision for your pedals .

Quote from Scrabby :

I'm going to do the 24Hours Du Fun on Spa in about half an hour. Anyone else? I'm driving the CTS-VR

Today SUZUKA with CTS at 20:15, 22:15 CET?
I have some own quite good setup if anyone wants...

Ah no, sorry! Today I need to work on my car

Thanks for asking anyway

Quote from Scrabby :

Ah no, sorry! Today I need to work on my car

Thanks for asking anyway

I want to work on my car too, but no money :-D

Ok, I will race anyway, today...

Quote from Klouczech :

Today SUZUKA with CTS at 20:15, 22:15 CET?
I have some own quite good setup if anyone wants...

I'd come run the Caddy with ya, but Im running this league today.

http://members.iracing.com/jforum/posts/list/2494888.page

gotta sign up quick.

i think my wheel turn radius in car is no no good... mine turns 90° and watched some videos on yt and it turns way more than that,this is way i cant race prolly coz m fkin car wont turn.. Show some pics of your mx5 wheel turned 1 way pls? and what to change in settings

Do you have arms visiable when driving?

yes

Yeah there's the problem, the animation stops after 90°, but your wheel keeps going you just can't see it. Arms are stupid anyway I'd suggest to turn both them and wheel off, you'll be much better off and get increased fps, win-win.

hmm ill see thanks

Quote from e2mustang :

yes

THEN THIS IS WHY.

Iracing put arms in and didn't model a crossover animation so the wheel when arms are enabled will only turn 90 each way.

But why are you crying like this? It makes you seem like an idiot.

Meh, I guess my wheel settings are crap, just doesn't feel right even if I run that configurator. I'm 1.2sec slower @ Laguna with the Stang than 1+ year ago. I have a crappy MOMO Racing with 240° rotation and I couldn't find anything on the iR forums how to set it up correctly. The "worst" wheel people are using is a G25.

Lock to lock range: 240°
Limit lock to lock range: 360° - set by the configurator, but later I tried 540 and 900. I have no idea what this is.

When turning the wheel like ~ 45° almost nothing happens, while at ~ 60-90° it turns like mad. So it's not linear at all.

Quote from Töki (HUN) :

Meh, I guess my wheel settings are crap, just doesn't feel right even if I run that configurator. I'm 1.2sec slower @ Laguna with the Stang than 1+ year ago. I have a crappy MOMO Racing with 240° rotation and I couldn't find anything on the iR forums how to set it up correctly. The "worst" wheel people are using is a G25.

Lock to lock range: 240°
Limit lock to lock range: 360° - set by the configurator, but later I tried 540 and 900. I have no idea what this is.

When turning the wheel like ~ 45° almost nothing happens, while at ~ 60-90° it turns like mad. So it's not linear at all.

Can we swap? My wheel is quite old and so has a really dodgy deadzone in the centre - it's dead easy to fix in LFS but in iRacing I can't drive anything even vaguely fast without me wiggling from side to side down the straights. Even in the SRF it's bad

EDIT: And how it thinks I have a 340 degrees lock to lock I've no idea......

The Mustang has been on the NTM for a couple of season now, probably why you're slower.

Quote from Töki (HUN) :

Meh, I guess my wheel settings are crap, just doesn't feel right even if I run that configurator. I'm 1.2sec slower @ Laguna with the Stang than 1+ year ago. I have a crappy MOMO Racing with 240° rotation and I couldn't find anything on the iR forums how to set it up correctly. The "worst" wheel people are using is a G25.

Lock to lock range: 240°
Limit lock to lock range: 360° - set by the configurator, but later I tried 540 and 900. I have no idea what this is.

When turning the wheel like ~ 45° almost nothing happens, while at ~ 60-90° it turns like mad. So it's not linear at all.

What configurator? The ingame calibrator you mean?

Quote from CrAZySkyPimp :

What configurator? The ingame calibrator you mean?

Yep.

Quote from BlueFlame :

THEN THIS IS WHY.

Iracing put arms in and didn't model a crossover animation so the wheel when arms are enabled will only turn 90 each way.

But why are you crying like this? It makes you seem like an idiot.

coz its a pos.i agreed to prove it,but little things can make me faster while i do it. thats why.

Quote from CrAZySkyPimp :

What configurator? The ingame calibrator you mean?

yeah what that does? coz seems like not much to me

It does that for you guys because the wheel is set to 360 in windows, so when it asks you to put the wheel 90 degrees to the left, it goes all the way to 360 even though you only have 280 on the wheel.

What you could do is,

a) Put it to 280 in windows (I don't remember if that is possible with MOMO but should be since logitech?)

b) When it ask's you to put it 90 degrees to the left - put the wheel in the position where the value on that screen says 280 and lock it there, don't worry about putting it exactly to 90°. That should give you a more accurate wheel responsiveness.

I have locked 900° in windows, but in certain cars I use a lower steering degree because it just turns retardely bad in the game. HPD, Street suck, caddi, spec racer are those I can remember out of my head right now.

I'll try that, thanks.

So would anyone care to report on how the cars feel with the new NTM- and steering changes introduced in this build? In what ways are the cars different?