After driving a lot with FWD-Cars i want to advance my skills with the real fast cars. I made some hotlaps with the FZ50 GTR. But no matter what i change in setup, the front right wheel always blocks when i hit the breaks. The other wheels do fine.

What do i have to change to prevent this? Well I'm sure there are more than one solution to this.

Please enlighten me. Thanx.

What track is it doing this on?

Some tracks, especially the SO tracks will cause this due to the uneven braking zones lifting the weight off one of the wheels. You cant really do much about that unless you want to un-balance the setup.

If its doing it on a flat surface then your setup must be asymmetrical, so make sure the settings are equal on each side.

Track is FE Gold. (the one i know best! *g*).

This happens before the 1st turn and also in the braking zone on the railway (on the bridge).
My setup is symetrical.

what controller/s are you using?

FF-Wheel of course! With seperated pedals.

it sounds like you are trail braking a bit too much, ease off the brakes earlier as you turn. it takes alot of sensitivity not to lock the brakes, some guys i see have smoke pouring from their inside tyre every corner. (hi scotty )

yeh push the pedal all the way and finish braking before you begin your turn.

hmm, the way to be fast is to use all or your tyres traction at all times, and if you let off the brake before you turn u arent doing that... but if you do it wrong you end up with raikkonen style flat spots

indeed. For a beginner it's best to learn how to brake and turn first and then try to improve your speed.

(will check our forum )

I'm talking about breaking before I make the turn. (already learned this in my first F1-game years ago *g*).

And yes, i push the brak-pedal to the bottom when i start to break and then lift it as I'm getting slower. Already found my breaking-strenght and balance.

BUT. the right front wheel always blocks while the others don't.

Quote from --==Gogo==-- :

I'm talking about breaking before I make the turn. (already learned this in my first F1-game years ago *g*).

And yes, i push the brak-pedal to the bottom when i start to break and then lift it as I'm getting slower. Already found my breaking-strenght and balance.

BUT. the right front wheel always blocks while the others don't.

Do you change down gear when braking?? e.g. change from 5th to 3rd or to 2nd?

if you do, try to brake until the revs are quite low and then change down otherwise it will lock the wheels up.

keep the wheel straight as u brake, dont hit the kerb on the left, try it when both tyres are at even temps... if the front right is overheated, then it will have less grip than the front left. thats all

if your set is symetric then you dont need to change the set...

scotty, the engine braking only operates on the rear wheels so that wouldnt lock the front if u went down gear quickly.

ps scotty, i thought ash wasnt coming?

Quote from snewham :

Do you change down gear when braking?? e.g. change from 5th to 3rd or to 2nd?

if you do, try to brake until the revs are quite low and then change down otherwise it will lock the wheels up.

You are right. But this happens to the rear wheels in a RWD-Car.

Quote from ayrton senna 87 :

keep the wheel straight as u brake, dont hit the kerb on the left, try it when both tyres are at even temps... if the front right is overheated, then it will have less grip than the front left. thats all

if your set is symetric then you dont need to change the set...

scotty, the engine braking only operates on the rear wheels so that wouldnt lock the front if u went down gear quickly.

ps scotty, i thought ash wasnt coming?

oops my fault, thought he was using FWD .. Yeh he is check forum again :P

yes that is the method i use.. your front wheel is locking because its the least loaded wheel at that point... this happens when you brake hard and turn.. i always try to brake hard in a straight line before the corner and then easy off as i start to turn.... this way less brake pressure is needed so my wheel do not lock.....

it may also be your brake bias and strength settings that are causing this..

try using around 70% brake bias with 1400 brake pressure... it depends on the driver ofcourse as some like to brake aggressively and some more easily..

mad

what is the ratio of braking on front to back?? is it around 65% front? and what force of braking is it?

the only thing i can think of is that you are pushing the brake pedal too hard. I brake full for a few seconds and then release brake pedal to about 50% down to avoid locking up.

Quote from snewham :

what is the ratio of braking on front to back?? is it around 65% front? and what force of braking is it?

the only thing i can think of is that you are pushing the brake pedal too hard. I brake full for a few seconds and then release brake pedal to about 50% down to avoid locking up.

Yeah, thats the way I do it.

I have 1220 Nm force and 70% ratio.

if he is braking in a straight line and only the right is locking then brake bias isnt at fault, maybe he is turning across the track and unsettling the car RIGHT before he brakes...

show us a replay

moving the bias rearward would mean that the front right wouldnt lock, but you wouldnt be using full grip of the front left...

If it's only one wheel then it is definetly the line that you are taking into the corner. If that is the case then try and sacrifise the exit to the corner before to try and gain a good and straight line for entry to the corner otherwise this will happen and you will lose alot of time.

post a replay man

anyway scotty, fordie doesnt know that ash is coming, i heard that ash wasnt coming too, can u sort it with him?

If it's happening only in a few places it's probably due to the loads on the car, try the setup at a flatter track like the Blackwood straight and see what happens.

Just a small thought:
Are all tyres set up to have the same contact-patch with the road? I usually tend to adjust the tyres for more grip in the corners which means they have different contact in the straights.

Vain

yea, he says his set is symetric

Then why not adjust it to make the grip more even. The drivers side will always be less prone to locking when travelling in a straight line. I've yet to found a combo where I didn't want to run an asymetric setup.

Alternatively you could increase the coast side of the diff.

You were right. It's just some very little steering I do when breaking (didn't even notice it while driving) but this is enough to make the wheel block.

Now THATS what I call a simulation!

Thank you guys.