Hello,

I just figured out that clutch in LFS works pretty strange, I think.

In options, if I calibrate my clutch it works perfectly fine. If I push my clutch all-way down, calibrate-bar shows zero. OK, then I'll slowly release my clutch and bar increases perfectly. Really smooth and accurate movement.

So, calibration works 100% fine.

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Well, in game, I've activated acc/brake/clutch bars, located to bottom-right of my screen.

I'm sitting in my car, change gear to first, and start to release my clutch. At the same time, I'm looking at the clutch-bar, it grows up and nothing happens, until ~80-90% of movement, clutch releases extremely fast and my car stalls.

So, clutch works yes, I can drive it. But it doesn't work smoothly. Atleast on normal cars, XRG,XFG,XRT,FXO etc, I think there should be normal smooth clutch to play with?

I couldn't find anything from options related to this, am I missing something or is this just how clutch works in LFS?

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I'm using Logitech G27 and newest version of LFS.

Clutch pedal in LFS does simulate the "death zone" a real clutch has on both sides. In the calibration screen you see the real input, while on the pedal bars you see what LFS is really doing with your input.

Correct my if I'm wrong, but there's a point in real cars where the clutch 'grips'. It's not that when your pedal is half released, your clutch is half engaged. It's different in all cars I think, but I don't think it's a bug or something in LFS.

So I assume this is a feature, not a bug.

My work around is when you callibrate start half way and only do the lift and press so only about 1/3 of range is calibrated. This then becomes the area the clutch works over. Sort of simulates the range bit transitions. Adjust range to suit

Quote from pmw :

clutch releases extremely fast and my car stalls.

i remember some discussion a long long time ago that race clutches are like that. basically they are made to grip 100% as fast as possible which makes sense. i guess even on the slow cars in LFS they have been given a race clutch.

your non-race clutch in your car lets you slip it quite a bit so the poor old lady next to you at the green light doesn't think you want to race when you only want to make sure you don't stall

Quote from Woz :

My work around is when you callibrate start half way and only do the lift and press so only about 1/3 of range is calibrated. This then becomes the area the clutch works over. Sort of simulates the range bit transitions. Adjust range to suit

i may be wrong but i think he wants the size of the range where the clutch is only partly engaged to be bigger. this calibration trick is good to position the bite point where you want in the range, but makes the engage zone smaller, right?

Quote from CarlLefrancois :

i may be wrong but i think he wants the size of the range where the clutch is only partly engaged to be bigger. this calibration trick is good to position the bite point where you want in the range, but makes the engage zone smaller, right?

oops, yep you are right

Quote from CarlLefrancois :

i remember some discussion a long long time ago that race clutches are like that. basically they are made to grip 100% as fast as possible which makes sense. i guess even on the slow cars in LFS they have been given a race clutch.

your non-race clutch in your car lets you slip it quite a bit so the poor old lady next to you at the green light doesn't think you want to race when you only want to make sure you don't stall

Yeps.. I was thinking something like this.
Ofcourse during racing it's difficult to see how clutch actually works, when you are shifting fast and brutally.

I just started to think this when I last time made a pit stop. After stopping, I tried to accelerate without spinning my tires, so I stalled my car. Really hard to do.. Not important stuff, just curious about the clutch stuff