HEY GUYS please i need help here is my setup if anyone can help me out on what im doing wrong plz let me know the fastest i can get is a 1:43.50 on The AS National if you guys can try this setup and tell mewhat im doing wrong please let me know... main problem seems to be on the second turn the big u turn i seem to loose it on hittin the brakes a bit while turning... please help out on this... Thanks
Hey im having problems with the FZ50GTR SETUP I MADE!!! HELP PLZ
(19 posts, started )
Hey im having problems with the FZ50GTR SETUP I MADE!!! HELP PLZ
attach a replay plz
yea, it might not be your set. it could just be the way you are driving..you might be taking the wrong line through the corner. A replay would help tons
Had a look at your setup Outlaw and I can see a few things that could help you out with the set.
First you had some slightly low camber, and at low speeds and specifically some of the turns at AS National, you need some higher camber. If you go too high, it kind of results in a hotlapping type setup, and your tires will get too hot on the insides and that just wont last in most cases for online sprint racing. The amount of camber you originally had was good for long sprint racing, but it was just too low that you wouldn't corner very fast, and probably not be as stable/safe for racing. Your only advantage would probably be that your tires don't heat up as much. However, because of the low camber, that may not be true, because you'd be sliding and heating them up anyways. So you kind of have to find a comfortable setting where you are stable (a little loose is nice, but not too loose), and also safe with tires.
Basically find the right camber amounts you want, and then test that, and see how long the heat lasts. If you slide too many times from your own mistakes (and not just from the camber settings), then you need to do a decent race with being consistent and finding the right tire pressures to set later on, to prevent overheated tires. Tire pressures is always my last tweak setting to fool around with when making a setup.
One easy rule of thumb to prevent the FZ or any oversteery setup from sliding out from under your control, is to give the front end a bit more understeer where you can force the car into a turn, and not have the rear end slip too much. The FZR is known for this, and it can easily whip out from under you while in a turn or under trailbraking. Reasons this happens mostly is because the front-end camber is higher than the rear, and the front downforce is stronger than the rear. If you raise the rear wing 1 or 2 degrees, that can help you, but the best test for creating decent understeer is by lowering the front end camber more to equal or be less than the rear wheel's camber. And then also raise the front tire pressure about 5 psi or more depending upon how much understeer you might need. You may think the car doesn't handle "as fast", but it will be more precise, more stable, and safer for a race. If you create too much understeer from all this, then you are gonna have to try and make it a 'bit' oversteery. That usually comes last once you get used to the car and learning how to set it up to your preference.
I attached your setup with just some minor changes, and haven't tested it, but I know it might help.
-Brake bias upped a bit
-Camber levels increased a bit (-2 deg now or so)
-Raised rear wing angle by 1 degree
-Raised rear antiroll bar so the rear wont be so washy
-Lowered front antiroll bar so the front can have a bit more weight under high loads (usually gives a bit better control, and doesn't make the car feel so snappy and twitchy)
-Fooled around with the toe for front and rear. The rear toe typically can be raised a bit to help with oversteer problems
Last but not least, as some have said a replay can help. I am not sure what turn you are talking about, but the FZ50 can lose it if you are braking too late, and you are forcing it into the turn at impossible moments. On Aston National, my braking point for the first long right-hander is just after the rumble curb on the left side begins. So as you drive passed where the curbing starts, ease in on the brakes there and ease in to the turn at the same time with a fast entrance. Don't be on the brakes as you are nearing the apex, and don't snap the wheel. You need to be fast in here and let your car's speed create the understeer at just the right amount. From there you just basically use throttle control to stay away from the outside and be gradual when rolling back to center with your steering.
The very slow left hander before you reach the split time is kind of tricky if you don't do it right. Basically there is a shadow from a bridge/sign before you enter that turn. Just as you pass that shadow, you will brake hard but keep the car straight for a bit. Then gradually ease in to the leftside curbing and keep the car very tight through the corner while not being on the brakes so much. Then it is all throttle control from there whilst easing back out on the steering towards center.... this is a basic technique to prevent power-oversteer, and the slow-tight right hander after that is kind of the same thing.
The FZR can be quick through turns, but you need a setup that you can force through turns, and not be sliding around. Some people like oversteer in order to be fast, but too much is just risky for racing
Hope you get a better time :up: Good Luck
First you had some slightly low camber, and at low speeds and specifically some of the turns at AS National, you need some higher camber. If you go too high, it kind of results in a hotlapping type setup, and your tires will get too hot on the insides and that just wont last in most cases for online sprint racing. The amount of camber you originally had was good for long sprint racing, but it was just too low that you wouldn't corner very fast, and probably not be as stable/safe for racing. Your only advantage would probably be that your tires don't heat up as much. However, because of the low camber, that may not be true, because you'd be sliding and heating them up anyways. So you kind of have to find a comfortable setting where you are stable (a little loose is nice, but not too loose), and also safe with tires.
Basically find the right camber amounts you want, and then test that, and see how long the heat lasts. If you slide too many times from your own mistakes (and not just from the camber settings), then you need to do a decent race with being consistent and finding the right tire pressures to set later on, to prevent overheated tires. Tire pressures is always my last tweak setting to fool around with when making a setup.
One easy rule of thumb to prevent the FZ or any oversteery setup from sliding out from under your control, is to give the front end a bit more understeer where you can force the car into a turn, and not have the rear end slip too much. The FZR is known for this, and it can easily whip out from under you while in a turn or under trailbraking. Reasons this happens mostly is because the front-end camber is higher than the rear, and the front downforce is stronger than the rear. If you raise the rear wing 1 or 2 degrees, that can help you, but the best test for creating decent understeer is by lowering the front end camber more to equal or be less than the rear wheel's camber. And then also raise the front tire pressure about 5 psi or more depending upon how much understeer you might need. You may think the car doesn't handle "as fast", but it will be more precise, more stable, and safer for a race. If you create too much understeer from all this, then you are gonna have to try and make it a 'bit' oversteery. That usually comes last once you get used to the car and learning how to set it up to your preference.
I attached your setup with just some minor changes, and haven't tested it, but I know it might help.
-Brake bias upped a bit
-Camber levels increased a bit (-2 deg now or so)
-Raised rear wing angle by 1 degree
-Raised rear antiroll bar so the rear wont be so washy
-Lowered front antiroll bar so the front can have a bit more weight under high loads (usually gives a bit better control, and doesn't make the car feel so snappy and twitchy)
-Fooled around with the toe for front and rear. The rear toe typically can be raised a bit to help with oversteer problems
Last but not least, as some have said a replay can help. I am not sure what turn you are talking about, but the FZ50 can lose it if you are braking too late, and you are forcing it into the turn at impossible moments. On Aston National, my braking point for the first long right-hander is just after the rumble curb on the left side begins. So as you drive passed where the curbing starts, ease in on the brakes there and ease in to the turn at the same time with a fast entrance. Don't be on the brakes as you are nearing the apex, and don't snap the wheel. You need to be fast in here and let your car's speed create the understeer at just the right amount. From there you just basically use throttle control to stay away from the outside and be gradual when rolling back to center with your steering.
The very slow left hander before you reach the split time is kind of tricky if you don't do it right. Basically there is a shadow from a bridge/sign before you enter that turn. Just as you pass that shadow, you will brake hard but keep the car straight for a bit. Then gradually ease in to the leftside curbing and keep the car very tight through the corner while not being on the brakes so much. Then it is all throttle control from there whilst easing back out on the steering towards center.... this is a basic technique to prevent power-oversteer, and the slow-tight right hander after that is kind of the same thing.
The FZR can be quick through turns, but you need a setup that you can force through turns, and not be sliding around. Some people like oversteer in order to be fast, but too much is just risky for racing
Hope you get a better time :up: Good Luck
And remember, you need to drive few laps with tweak's set to get to know it.
Can you drive consistently those 1:43s? There are two crucial turns on as3, the last turn (chicane) and the corner before the back straight. Does the setup feel nervous when you try to accelerate out of these corners? Does the set feel pushy or oversteery?
Can you drive consistently those 1:43s? There are two crucial turns on as3, the last turn (chicane) and the corner before the back straight. Does the setup feel nervous when you try to accelerate out of these corners? Does the set feel pushy or oversteery?
The FZR is definatly a beast, handles like a dream up to about 95% after that it goes from being all nice to deing a beast from hell that is just looking for an oppertunity to bite. The car is built like a Porsche, all the weight is in the back on the rear tires. That rear weight bias make it accelerate like a cheata but in the corners and under breaking it wants to lead the way. Controling that weight and how it moves around is the key.
The setup will only get you so far, at some point you need to learn to use that weight to help you control the car. I find that I will more times then not have understeer in fast corners which i try and compensate for with setup and the truth of the matter is I am using too much steering input. The result is a very oversteery set in slow speed corners and during rapid direction changes like the final chicane.
Another common pitfall in the FZR is that reduced grip in the rear end can be either from springs and ARBs too soft or too hard. So untill you get it close it will not react to adjustments like it would in a R/F car like the XRR. Too soft and the too much weigth can transfer, too hard and you don't allow enough weight to transfer. Both situations lead to loose of grip at the back.
The FZR is very sensitive to small changes in tire and suspension changes so make them in small ammounts. AS National is also not the best track for building a set on as it has limited corner types to test against and what works there may not work anywhere else. But sets built for tracks like AS Historic and GP will work almost anywhere with minor adjustments.
The setup will only get you so far, at some point you need to learn to use that weight to help you control the car. I find that I will more times then not have understeer in fast corners which i try and compensate for with setup and the truth of the matter is I am using too much steering input. The result is a very oversteery set in slow speed corners and during rapid direction changes like the final chicane.
Another common pitfall in the FZR is that reduced grip in the rear end can be either from springs and ARBs too soft or too hard. So untill you get it close it will not react to adjustments like it would in a R/F car like the XRR. Too soft and the too much weigth can transfer, too hard and you don't allow enough weight to transfer. Both situations lead to loose of grip at the back.
The FZR is very sensitive to small changes in tire and suspension changes so make them in small ammounts. AS National is also not the best track for building a set on as it has limited corner types to test against and what works there may not work anywhere else. But sets built for tracks like AS Historic and GP will work almost anywhere with minor adjustments.
YES does two corners kill my time i have noticed i always oversteer a bit kills my speed to bout 40-45 instead 50 54.... and on the chicane it kills it to bout 70 75 and cant go wot till bout the end when i start the straight... thanks ill try it...
The FZR doesn't react well to trail braking (depending on setup and driving style of course) and as a mouser I pretty much did all of my braking in a straight line. The FZR has the engine right out the back so if you turn in under braking then all the wieght just wants to keep going. The upshot is the engine wants to carry on in a straight line whilst you are trying to force it to change direction, meaning your back end will slide out if your are too hot or badly setup. The two corners you are talking about are probable the two most crucial complex's on AS Nat (The first 'proper' corner is somewhere else too look, but thats for when you have all the others hooked up)
If we look at driving style firstand I'll come to my setup pointers later.
The hairpin complex.
Again, as mentioned earlier, late braking is often the cause for the FZR to struggle into corners. Try getting ont he brakes earlier. I think you will be surprised at how it can make you corner come to you. Once you have found a braking spot that, even though you might consider slower, you are comfortable with and enables the car to maintain composure through the corner you can then adjust for later points as you get more confident and your setups change.
The chicane braking point is often a difficult one to judge as there is no real markers on the right of the track . . . I used my forth gear change light. And adjusted the gear ratios to give me an exact point as the light comes on to hit the brakes. The chicane does reward you for a slower entrance. Stabilty over that first kurb is vital, in fact I kept clear of it finding it upset the car too much, you can then ride the second kurb and if you've got it right you will be inches from the tyres. Get it wrong, your in the tyres. So again, try pushing your brake point earlier and then building back up once you have got comfortable and stable through it. The chicane definatly has a nack so don't get to downcast over it. It took me many months to crack it.
And so to setup.
Some things have been mentioned. But you spefically are saying you have problems under braking. One thing that struck me with the FZR is the tyre pressures, this is less apparent under the new patch but still relevant I think, in that if you run the rears at a higher pressure than the fronts it can cause the rear of the car to be alot more jumpy under braking. It's a balance thing because the FZR eats it's rear tyres but I always maintained a higher pressure at the front. It just calms the back down a treat. And such a simple thing too.
Increasing rear toe in will not only help you in the turn in (By the fact that whatever outside wheel the car is leaning on is turned into the corner means the tyre is trying to 'force' the car straight again. This gives a slightly more forgiving setup and with a mouser it's an invaluabel way of gaining power control) but will also help you get the power down on the exit.
The other vital place you need to look at as well as understand is the damping. Weight transfer is everything. Under braking all the weight moves to the front, under acceleration the weight moves to the rear. Now, just because you are off the brakes and turning into a corner does not mean that the weight dynamic has settled down, you are still slowing down untill you press the accelerator again. In a corner entry instance where the rear has less weight leaving it more prone to sliding then an increase in front bump dampening and increasing the rear rebound will keep more weight at the back for longer. But then that could well effect the handling in other areas. So you need to experiment and practice and learn to notice what the car is doing at any given moment. The Cars in LFS communicate with you and if you listen they will tell you what you need to too. I would really recommend reading a few of the setup guides and car handling explanations that are around. There will really make you appreaciate just how good LFS is when it comes to car handling characturistics.
Oh and do you use a manual box? If so you might be changing down to early. This causes the rear wheel to lock up and take you straight the scene of the accident. Use each gear. It's fairly safe to go from sixth to fourth, but hang around in forth untill you have scrubbed some speed, then quick change to second.
Hope that helps you. Like I said, there are guides around which are really helpful in learning how a car handles and what the setup dynamics are.
But thats just half of it, the other half is you. Practice and adjust and test and practice and the PB's will just roll in.
Happy racing.
If we look at driving style firstand I'll come to my setup pointers later.
The hairpin complex.
Again, as mentioned earlier, late braking is often the cause for the FZR to struggle into corners. Try getting ont he brakes earlier. I think you will be surprised at how it can make you corner come to you. Once you have found a braking spot that, even though you might consider slower, you are comfortable with and enables the car to maintain composure through the corner you can then adjust for later points as you get more confident and your setups change.
The chicane braking point is often a difficult one to judge as there is no real markers on the right of the track . . . I used my forth gear change light. And adjusted the gear ratios to give me an exact point as the light comes on to hit the brakes. The chicane does reward you for a slower entrance. Stabilty over that first kurb is vital, in fact I kept clear of it finding it upset the car too much, you can then ride the second kurb and if you've got it right you will be inches from the tyres. Get it wrong, your in the tyres. So again, try pushing your brake point earlier and then building back up once you have got comfortable and stable through it. The chicane definatly has a nack so don't get to downcast over it. It took me many months to crack it.
And so to setup.
Some things have been mentioned. But you spefically are saying you have problems under braking. One thing that struck me with the FZR is the tyre pressures, this is less apparent under the new patch but still relevant I think, in that if you run the rears at a higher pressure than the fronts it can cause the rear of the car to be alot more jumpy under braking. It's a balance thing because the FZR eats it's rear tyres but I always maintained a higher pressure at the front. It just calms the back down a treat. And such a simple thing too.
Increasing rear toe in will not only help you in the turn in (By the fact that whatever outside wheel the car is leaning on is turned into the corner means the tyre is trying to 'force' the car straight again. This gives a slightly more forgiving setup and with a mouser it's an invaluabel way of gaining power control) but will also help you get the power down on the exit.
The other vital place you need to look at as well as understand is the damping. Weight transfer is everything. Under braking all the weight moves to the front, under acceleration the weight moves to the rear. Now, just because you are off the brakes and turning into a corner does not mean that the weight dynamic has settled down, you are still slowing down untill you press the accelerator again. In a corner entry instance where the rear has less weight leaving it more prone to sliding then an increase in front bump dampening and increasing the rear rebound will keep more weight at the back for longer. But then that could well effect the handling in other areas. So you need to experiment and practice and learn to notice what the car is doing at any given moment. The Cars in LFS communicate with you and if you listen they will tell you what you need to too. I would really recommend reading a few of the setup guides and car handling explanations that are around. There will really make you appreaciate just how good LFS is when it comes to car handling characturistics.
Oh and do you use a manual box? If so you might be changing down to early. This causes the rear wheel to lock up and take you straight the scene of the accident. Use each gear. It's fairly safe to go from sixth to fourth, but hang around in forth untill you have scrubbed some speed, then quick change to second.
Hope that helps you. Like I said, there are guides around which are really helpful in learning how a car handles and what the setup dynamics are.
But thats just half of it, the other half is you. Practice and adjust and test and practice and the PB's will just roll in.
Happy racing.
Hey all thank you very much for the help and hints... now im braking 1:42.43 that was on my 5 lap with the setup u game me man thanks i did a lil mods to it so it helped alot thanks... hopefully i can get to the 1:40 soon i know i can im sure... thanks alot
that was on my 5 lap with the setup u game me man thanks i did a lil mods to it so it helped alot thanks... hopefully i can get to the 1:40 soon i know i can im sure... thanks alotLet us know how your getting on dude . . . It would be nice to know what your changing and what is effecting what as you go . . .Keep talking bud. It's good to talk.
i gave tweak's set a try, not bad at all managed to get 1:40.93 with overheated tyres, and constant 1:41.1x's in long races. i modded it a bit, 6th gear was way too short, and i found the brake bias a bit much, so heres my version.
edit: i have only like 40 laps on as3, so it might be good for some faster times..
managed to get 1:40.93 with overheated tyres, and constant 1:41.1x's in long races. i modded it a bit, 6th gear was way too short, and i found the brake bias a bit much, so heres my version.edit: i have only like 40 laps on as3, so it might be good for some faster times..
Heh, I didn't even test the setup myself, but I guess it helps 
the original one might have been even better, and we just messed it
who knows..i modified it a bit, my pb is 1.40.30 so far. give it a try
My PB is ~1.42.90. with my setup.
James used the same setup and got 1.41.17 or somthing like that. It was originally Jams's setup but I did a bit of modding to it.
WTF? Do I really SUCK?
Here is my set. Tell me what lap times you get with it. I like how stable it is so if you change somthing and it gives a good improvment on lap time and does not make the thing squirm all over, please tell me.
FZ50 GTR_SKSTIBI.set
James used the same setup and got 1.41.17 or somthing like that. It was originally Jams's setup but I did a bit of modding to it.
WTF? Do I really SUCK?
Here is my set. Tell me what lap times you get with it. I like how stable it is so if you change somthing and it gives a good improvment on lap time and does not make the thing squirm all over, please tell me.
FZ50 GTR_SKSTIBI.setIf someone isfaster with the same set it could well be that you just need to practice some more. Just go do plenty of racing and watch other's approaches to corners and the like and learn from them . . .
it is pretty sad when you get a new PB and you don't know about it. I have a new one but have no Idea where it came from. lol
lolDropped 2 seconds off my times. Thank you. I did, though, turn down the braking force.
Thanks to the guy above fot the topic kick
I just improved my pb with half a second to 1:41:55, so it's a good set. It just has a little bit too much understeer to my liking.
What I like the most is that the set is mikey-compatible, meaning the temperatures stay in the green instead of going red.
So thanks for the set dude
I just improved my pb with half a second to 1:41:55, so it's a good set. It just has a little bit too much understeer to my liking.
What I like the most is that the set is mikey-compatible, meaning the temperatures stay in the green instead of going red.
So thanks for the set dude
Hey im having problems with the FZ50GTR SETUP I MADE!!! HELP PLZ
(19 posts, started )
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG