I'm gonna take the damn things open tomorrow and give things a poke, but as things stand these are my problems:

Even with the pedal pressed all the way, I don't get 100% signal. This is a well known problem. Only affects the accelerator.

With the pedal fully released, the signal never drops to 0%. Affects the brake a lot more than the accelerator.

Both of these are worked around by using DXTweak2.

The most annoying thing is the jumpiness. Pushing one of the pedals half way down results in readings anywhere between 30% and 80%. Without moving the pedal at all, the readings are wobbling all over the place. The accelerator is pretty bad. It's not possible to smoothly rev the car in neutral. The brake is worse. Trying to brake 50% sometimes results braking nearly as quickly as full brake, othertimes I feel it would be better to drag my feet on the ground.

This problem is getting worse, and makes the other two problems even worse, since the brake, while never going away, can jump to about 25% all by itself, then go back to 5%, without ever touching the pedal. Makes driving interesting. If I reduce the ranges in DXTweak2 anymore I'm going to have a digital brake.

Anyway, once I've got them apart and had a play I'm hoping everything will go away. I've found various fixes on the net so fingers crossed. Anyway the point of this thread was really just to ask has anyone else suffered from this problem and have they had any luck getting rid of it? And has anyone else had all three at once (like me), or maybe even other problems that don't bare thinking about. At least if the damn things caught fire you'd get some satisfaction.

Well, you have the sammme problem as I had as far as I can tell.., only way to fix them is to take them apart and find the two sensors, and take the little stick that looks like a --o and put that into the pot, and glue it in, then put them all back together and you'll never have another problem with them untill they become unglued...for some reason they neglected to glue them from factory, if they had just done that there would be no problem.. but the software "fixes" are just band aids, that wont actually fix the problem just cover it up till it gets a lot worse..wish i still had em i'd do a photo tutorial for ya but i dont, but if ya need help just give me a holler

I had/have the jumpiness problem too. Not managed to get rid really. I took them apart and cleaned them which solved things for a while, but I found it came back quicker and quicker. Now I can just about reach the straight on blackwood before they go jumpy again (slight exaggeration there). A very short term fix I've found though if mid race, is to pump the pedal up and down quickly a few times. This seems to help for a few corners for incase you're near the end of a race.


Coupled with the problem in this thread I've pretty much given up.


Does that cure the jumpiness problem DodgeRacer? I can see it curing the calibration problem but it seems unlikely for the jumpiness for some reason. I'll definately try it though! I might try and make a sort of seal to keep the dirt out using some bath sealing type stuff after cleaning.

Can't tell ya on the jumpiness thing, never had that problem, but i constantly had the losing calibration slowly thing, first i just took them apart and it fixed it, but just like you it started happening more, so i glued the suckers in and never had another problem..

First check your warranty. It may be worth contacting Logitech even if your warranty has expired, some people have been lucky. Don't bother contacting Logitech in the US, they only help US citizens.

Jumpiness is usually caused by worn or dirty pots. The solution may be as simple as rotating the pots rapidly between your fingers to clear any fine debris, or else you could blast them with air, or a suitable spray (remember a pot is a variable resistor and therefore relies on two surfaces contacting to function properly, conductivity is important). If the pot is worn beyond repair then nothing will fix it and sadly Logitech will not sell you replacement parts.

The 90% throttle problem is often just a case of the pot physically being moved from its place. As you push the pedal down the twisting action lifts the pot a bit and so the last bit of pedal range is not actually turning the pot. This may be quick-fixed by adding some folded paper to keep the pot firm in its place.
*Why didn't Logitech glue them? Because there is so much movement around the pedal's pivot point that a glued pot will eventually snap. I know this to be true because I have a snapped pot right here!

These pedals are auto-calibrating. That means if one pedal is not reporting its full range then both pedals may seem to be malfunctioning. Every time the recalibration occurs a slightly different range is reported. Since the problem is usually caused by physical movement of mechanical parts it can be fixed with a little ingenuity. Be careful when playing with the pots, they are quite flimsy.
In a few cases where people have a reduced or skewed range it may be a more serious problem and unfixable but this is not the norm. Logitech released a patch to compensate for the shifting range but in my experience it is useless and your lap times will suffer.

DXTweak should be disabled or uninstalled when testing repairs. Make sure you reset your controller by rebooting or unplugging USB and replugging. Reboot is the sure way. Under XP, your dead zones will not persist after the reboot. If you know that your pots are clean, snug and properly fitted and you still have pedal problems then the news is probably bad for the future of your pedals.

If you do go searching for new pots, I am fairly sure that the Momo and DFP pots are only 10k OHM resistance. You will be better off sticking with the same spec (I tried 100k and 250k pots in my Momo pedals but they would only use 10k of range and didn't want to calibrate properly). If you ever decide to build your own pedals use at least 100k pots (250 would be nice) and make them to plug into a game port, independant of your Logitech controller. I'm using 100k pots in my curent pedals and they eat Logitech ones alive when it comes to throttle control and sensitivity.

Hope some of this info this helps.

Check out this topic for links to Logitech patches and propaganda.

Hmm, never had a snaping problem after about 4 months, but i can see what you mean...but there has to be something to make them stay in place or they will just keep doing it undefinatly...

I suggest not using a super-glue to fix the pot movements. If you ever need to take them out for cleaning, you'll have a hard time (or break them like me).

I have two questions though:
1) Can anyone tell me if WD-40 is any good for cleaning pots?
2) Any contact details on Logitech in Central Europe? (I'm living in Slovak Republic). Thanx.

'm starting to see a connection here, ya'll used super glue, crazy glue whatever it is right? I used a very soft bendable hot glue stick, maybe thats the difference??



I wouldnt put wd-40 in them, they have a hard enough grasping on to the lil bugger as is , i cant imagine puting lubricant on em is going to help..


the best suggestion i have is to do what I have now done, got a real cheap sidewinder pedal set, and just use them for the pedals since you can have dual wheels in lfs or if you have a couple min on your hands,..

Do not use WD-40. I know it's definitely bad for plastic, maybe or maybe not for pots too, but they are housed in plastic.

To the thread starter (Bob?) I notice you're in U.K. I had this problem with my DFP pedals. I took the pedals apart and cleaned the pots with this:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module ... duleNo=4153&doy=4m10D

Seemed to help and has caused no problems (no guarantee from me btw). I also got hold of some more grease to re-lube the pedal holdings / springs etc. I found some basic lithium grease in Wilkinson for about £3. It comes in a tub - grease is murky beige coloured - and in my shop was stocked near the car grease etc.

I was able to pull the pot out of the pedal and blast it right inside (contact cleaner NOT grease) and turn it a few times to try and clean it. Make sure you take note of where the three connectors go on the pot.

I also swapped the pots, gas for brake and vice versa, and cleaned all the gunk, dust, hair and crap from inside the unit.

All of this did help, but remember it's different probably for every set. Mine are DFP so it could be other issues. I would also recommend finding a way to secure the pots tighter as mentioned elsewhere - with tape, or folds of paper, but probably not glue as mentioned. Good luck.

lol i think i just got a good set then, i have only had about 3 instances where my pedals have been about 10% incorrect in their calibration and thats about it.. and thats for almost 2 years, how long have yall had yours??

what works for me is just take it apart, clean out the crap, check it, put it back together.. and that fixes it usually.. nothing big, yall use that DXTweak thing which gets really confusing and nasty cause then you have no idea what on earth your pedals are doing because your tricking the computer into what you want the pedals to do when they really arent.. and that just leads to more confusion and problems

Quote from XCNuse :

how long have yall had yours??

My DFP pedals started do do things I didn't want after less than a month. The pedals of my Formula GP "broke" after two weeks.

I nerver tried it but I believe it's just a matter of keeping enough grease on the "bearings".

It was only when I replaced my pedals that I realised how much the Momo ones effected my lap times. Many people wouldn't even know they had a problem and probably think of themselves as average racers when in fact they are much faster. The 90-95% throttle (or brake) issue can be almost indetectable if it comes on gradually. How many of you have had those sessions where your lap times keep getting a little slower every time around? Try unplugging the pedals from the wheel and plugging them back in, then see if your times are better than before. If so, then you may have a shifting centre caused by physical pot movement or damaged/dirty pots.

The DFP pedals are the same, except for a recent revision which uses a slightly better quality pot, but other issues remain. The pot is still only 10k as far as I know. The tiny blue plastic pots originally used (most of us have them) are probably the worst pot they could have chosen for a game controller. Really dissapointing in fact. They are also difficult to clean properly while many better pots can be dismantled completely. Be careful if removing them from the pedals, there is a small metal piece which helps keep them attached, you may need to bend it back if damaged when removing pots. This clip can be reached from the reverse side by using some very long and thin pliers or calipers, entering the pedal's main axle from the opposite side to the pot. Also pay attention to the wiring harness and replace it as it was before removal.

Aaaahhhhhh finally, one of my team mates sent me some new Momo pedals (he uses some other pedals), so I can safely take my old ones apart for some maintenance.
(in the month since my first post, they had gotten far worse)

And what have I found out so far? Apart from a small explosion of dust when I took out the last screw, there are two dead spiders and a dead beetle in there. Talk about them being buggy.

I'm not sure what they died of, but I'm guessing either dehydration or just manic depression from being inside such badly manufactured equipment. I've taken photos to prove it but I've just lent me digital camera lead to my mate, I shall get him to bring it back to the pub with him tonight so I can post them.

I'll post some after pictures with descriptions of what I did, perhaps some will find it interesting. Or are there enough threads like this on other forums?

I fixed it by reducing the clearance in the pedalaxes, and cleaned the pots with 'brake cleaner'. I could move my Gaspedal about 5mm left/right before fixing the pedalaxes.

The 95% issue is coused by spiking pots and the logitech autocalibration feature.

OK well I did the oh-so popular tape mod and it has indeed totally cured all my problems (yay), I applied one layer of tape to the brake but this wasn't enough to stop the sideways movement on the accelerator, so applied to layers to that pedal shaft, and it's solid as a rock. Just need to loosen it up now so that the spring can push the pedal back on it's own...

Attached before and after pictures.

I've gone probably several thousand miles now with a wrap of electrical tape on the throttle shaft. I recently had to open them up for a loose pot and inspected the tape. Still going, and going, and going....

electrical tape fixes everything

What is electrical tape?

aka Insulation tape

Quote from dontsimon :

What is electrical tape?

PVC insulating tape nice and sticky and can be stretched too

http://www.tapes-direct.co.uk/electrician.php


SD.

Good read. I have exactly the same problem. I'm goign to open up my pedal set after i get my materials together. (i.e grease and electrical tape)