my car snap out but easily recovered under heavy breaking

I set my uf gtr very stiff front, with no anti roll bar, rear is slightly softer with anti-roll bar. my braking set to 80% front, 400nm braking force.... i tried adjusting everything. I noticed running locked diff. it doesnt snap out but its not good for turning... even with LSD maxed out...
Its bloody handles good with half setting LSD....

well knowing my real life UF1300 Its properly need new rear smaller bore cylinder

How do i reduce the snapped without going locked diff.
jay

Try a bit more toe-out on the rear, always does it for me

Edit: Maybe a bit less parallelsteer, if it's set like 35degrees, adjust it to 40degrees

Quote from Michel 4AGE :

Try a bit more toe-out on the rear, always does it for me

More toe OUT? Interesting. You sure you don't mean toe-in?

Quote from Michel 4AGE :

Edit: Maybe a bit less parallelsteer, if it's set like 35degrees, adjust it to 40degrees

I don't think this would have any affect. Parallel steer isn't in degrees btw.

One suggestion would be to increase the coast locking of the diff, this will reduce oversteer when off the throttle.

Aye Its Toe-in +0.2 rear, 0.00 on front. I am using vicious diff But im will be trying out clutch pack lsd but its bit black art magic to me.

Thank you for replies.

Yeah you're right

A bit Toe-in like +0,1 or +0,2 reduces the car wanting to oversteer while braking, it usually happens when driving with a locked diff.

Most mouse/keyboard drivers use low amount of parallelsteer and that in combination with a locked diff makes the car a bit more twitchy. The ufr is a bit more sensitive for this.

What brake bias are you using ?

using 80% bia at the moment..

do you want my setup...

Sure why not

On what track are you using it ?

i run it on ALL tracks i noticed it suited to more smooth track as long its not south city or fern bay tracks

it might be crappy to you handles awful.. but really nice for me...

I use left foot braking to prevent the rear end to step out.... so during hard braking with my left foot, I will ease up on the throttle a tad when I feel the rear getting unstable... Usually I have to do this between gear changes (down) so I intentionally blip the throttle to prevent it from ever happening . And try not to twitch or turn the wheel to much.

Other than that, I always check the front end and make sure it isnt too soft. Making it soft will lift up the rear end too much and transfer way too much weight to the front. Either keep it soft but keep the rear end lower a bit than the front, or stiffen up the front with harder bump spring keep the rear low too.

Sry, I´m at work atm, so can´t try your set, but in case you are not using it yet:
A nice try: locked diff

Works well under braking and can help to reduce front wheel temps as well.
Depends on the track you are driving

I tried it with the XFR and UFR on Aston Club, no problems.

You have to make fairly wholesale changes to the balance to get a locked diff to work, but it does work.

I'm driving in the ESL UK championship, which is UFR only, and pretty much all the top runners are using locked diff. You just need to dial in more basic oversteer and adjust your turn-in driving style slightly.

When I first tried the locked diff for the UFR I thought this sucks, but it is just very comfortable under braking. After a few laps I got used to it and I was faster than with clutch pack, which is very hard to control under braking. So if you want to build a nice, predictable setup for the UFR or the XFR use locked diff. Actually I think it should be the best for all the FWD-s.
Everyone used locked diff in our league race at AS club with the UFR. It is just the way to go really.