simply put i can't get my G25 to work with LFS, GTR2- works a dream.

LFS can see the wheel and pedals, i know this because i can move the wheel in game but it's stupid- 300 degrees in a few inches turn on my g25, i can't find how to make it 1:1 scale or anything better than 1:50!!!

Secondly the break and gas show as active in settings but in game nothing!!! by active i mean i can see the blue bars move so it sees them but ingame it does nothing!

help. someone please post step by step guide for me please!

try my dfp settings.

http://www.lfsforum.net/showth ... highlight=axis#post235679

These instructions pretty much apply to all controllers. G25 is no different other than the uncommon clutch pedal and degrees of rotation settings that are easily configured in LFS.

Be sure that with whatever car you choose, you match the degrees of rotation with the car in LFS. So for the FZ50 (road cars in LFS), you set the degrees to 720 in Windows properties, and in LFS control settings. You can see what degrees of rotation your car is by going to the 'Steering' section of your car setup in the garage.

People recommend that you use 900 degrees in both Windows and in LFS (so you don't have to make changes from car to car - sort of makes it 'universal'), but I don't think that is a good idea at all, since there is a big downside to this. There is no car in LFS that has 900 degrees of steering rotation, and if you are using say... the MRT which is 270 if I remember correctly, your wheel will spin past the 270 degree point and be allowed to rotate 900 degrees. You DON'T want this to happen if you are trying to countersteer the car. So it is best to match the degrees of rotation for your wheel, for whatever car you will be using.

But generally I don't use the full rotation. You will always be faster if you use a fixed rotation amount of 270 degrees for ALL the cars. But if you want realism, match the real degrees . Also the wheel turn compensation setting, you can set that however you want. But generally it is 0.00 for when you match steering rotation of the car, but you want it higher like .50 - 1.00 if you use a fixed rotation of around 270 degrees or something.

Good Luck.

Quote from Tweaker :

People recommend that you use 900 degrees in both Windows and in LFS (so you don't have to make changes from car to car - sort of makes it 'universal'), but I don't think that is a good idea at all, since there is a big downside to this.

The only downside is lack of physical locks, however:

Quote :

But generally I don't use the full rotation.

Exactly.

So you have two choices:

1. Set the profiler and LFS to 900. Your wheel matches the in-game wheel for every car in the game and you never have to touch it again.
   
2. Set the profiler and LFS to match a specific car. Every time you change to a car that has a different steering lock, you must:
   • TAB away from LFS and open the profiler.
     
   • Select Edit -> Specific Game Settings
     
   • Edit the degrees of rotation to match the specific car you want to drive.
     
   • Go back to LFS and edit the 'wheel rotation' setting to match the car.

As was mentioned, the only downside to #1 is no physical locks, but I never have the wheel at maximum lock while racing anyway, so it's a downside I never even notice.

The downside of #2 is that it's a pain in the butt, which I do notice.

So my preference is #1.

This is daft and i'm angry now it's not working properly at all. Steering is fine but break/gas are the same axis, it goes up for throttle and down for break. And in game i find that only one works, either brake or gas and then it it will auto rev, or rev up until you throttle down, it's all ****ed up"

Turn off combined axis then.

Quote from Doeboy :

This is daft and i'm angry now it's not working properly at all. Steering is fine but break/gas are the same axis, it goes up for throttle and down for break. And in game i find that only one works, either brake or gas and then it it will auto rev, or rev up until you throttle down, it's all ****ed up"

Assuming the G25 is the same as many other wheels you need to tell the game controller driver in windows to use split axis. Going by the DFP settings, this is the "report combined pedals". The alternative is turning off combined axis within LFS itself. You can find this under the Controls Options section, under wheel/js.

Quote from Eric Tetz :

So you have two choices

theres a 3rd since the first one i kinda stupid which is to set lfs and the drivers to 720 so youll have a lock with most of lfses cars and no lock on those where youll probably never get anywhere near the lock anyway

The problem is LFS sees the break and throttle on 1 axis. so when i assign it, if my foot is off the pedal in game it's 50% and then the pedals movement is the other 50%. Somethings seriously wrong here.

Quote from tristancliffe :

Turn off combined axis then.

Quote from Doeboy :

The problem is LFS sees the break and throttle on 1 axis. so when i assign it, if my foot is off the pedal in game it's 50% and then the pedals movement is the other 50%. Somethings seriously wrong here.

Quote from Shotglass :

theres a 3rd since the first one i kinda stupid which is to set lfs and the drivers to 720 so youll have a lock with most of lfses cars and no lock on those where youll probably never get anywhere near the lock anyway

This sounds more resonable then setting it to 900°. Since there is no car with 900° and 720° perfectly fits 12 of 19 LFS cars.

Doeboy,
just listen to Tristan's wise words, and your problem is solved.

Combined axis where?????????????????????? IT IS OFF IN GAME AND STILL IT SHOWS BOTH ON 1 AXIS

I've settled for setting it to 1 axis and it works.

However now the wheel turns full lock with just 160 degrees on my g25!

Control Panel, Game Controllers, Options, Settings, Report Combined Pedals (or similar).

Alternatively you can do it in the profiler if you use that (I don't).

Ok sorted the wheel issue, i see how it works now.

Whats the difference for the seperate axis when you can break and accelerare at the same time on just the one axis?

Quote from Shotglass :

theres a 3rd since the first one i kinda stupid which is to set lfs and the drivers to 720 so youll have a lock with most of lfses cars and no lock on those where youll probably never get anywhere near the lock anyway

Well, I started by saying 720+, but explaining how some cars get physical locks and others don't confuses the point. The point is simply that doing it this way is set-and-forget. Set to any value >= 720 and you're done.

For all practical purposes, it doesn't matter whether you set it to 720 or 900, because you're never going to come anywhere near hitting the lock either way. The locks matter more in the cars that have only 270 degrees of steering.

Quote from Doeboy :

Ok sorted the wheel issue, i see how it works now.

Whats the difference for the seperate axis when you can break and accelerare at the same time on just the one axis?

Yes, seperate is what you want. This allows you to press the brake and throttle at the same time (for like brake stand burnouts... but more importantly, so you can blip the throttle while downshifting under braking at the same time)

Single Axis - More throttle = less brake. Can't blip throttle whilst braking, and can only do one thing at once.

Split Axis - Can left foot brake whilst blipping throttle, or use the brake to balance a car mid corner. Also useful for immature, inpromptu doughnuts, and other fancy things.

Split has no downsides, only positives.

Sorted finally, now all i need is to pay up for my licence and ram you skilled drivers off the road for a month while i get to grip with it all.

Nope this morning i'm finding again that the wheel is turning full lock within a few inches of movement on the g25, adjusting the settings does nothing.

Calibration lock in LFS? How about posting some piccies of your control panel, profiler (if applicable) and LFS control settings. We'll tell you what you've done wrong in 30 seconds flat!

Up and running again, it's not my error, i set it up right, next time i loaded the game the settings were the same and the wheel was all over the place. On the 3rd reload all was fine, again i'd not touched the settings. It's a conflict of some nature. It's now working fine each time i load & when i boot the machine thank God!

if it ever happens again move the wheel from lock to lock