I'm still new to turbos myself, but AFAIK boost is managed by the wastegate. Basically, the wastegate opens partially and some of the exhaust gasses are routed out through it, rather then into the exhaust turbine, and thus limiting boost.
Modern engines are able to modulate the wastegate opening based on what the ECU says allowing for different boost per gear, with a physical spring to fall back on in case of failure (in the case of the Legacy, it's a 9 lb spring, meaning anything over 9lb of boost will open the wastegate).
We know what its for but if you NEED this is means you DO NOT know how to control your revs with your right foot so you do not loose traction. Yes it might appear on family cars that have turbos BUT this has probably been done so that when you use the car around town it is not a monster.
Myself and many others have no isssue keeping traction when required , but then I guess we just have better control over our right feet?
Personally I dont understand turbos... Why anyone would want turbo lag when they can use a blower instead and get boost in the entire rev rangeand have none of the crap lag effects that come with turbos.
BTW, I have owned a couple of cars that had turbos and never had an issue keeping traction? But then if your right foot is too heavy you can make any car loose traction, turbo or not.
With the exception of a few more modern superchargers, what you trade in lag you get back as parasitic power losses. Typically speaking, superchargers cannot provided as much boost either, a max of maybe 9 PSI.
VW is going the route of the "twincharger" in which it's both supercharged and turbocharged. The supercharger for low RPM, the turbo for high RPM. Seems like a good idea, best of both worlds.
As for keeping traction, what kind of power were you getting in those cars? My peak torque is roughly 300 lb/ft which comes on HARD at 3100 RPM. Talking about going from about 160 lb/ft at 2000 RPM to that as boost peaks.
Now, that's 3rd+ gear numbers, so they're not totally relevant. Figure maybe 230 peak lb/ft in first.
Anyway... the point. Despite being AWD (50/50 split) it's quite possible to spin the tires in 1st on dry, and wet? Oh man... YES you have to go out of your way to do it in the dry, but NOT in the wet. That sudden surge as boost peaks is tricky, and if you're too heavy on the throttle, watch out. It's still quite possible to control it, but it's so easy to spin the tires it's ridiculous. And if I had the full boost in 1st? Yikes.
* Disclaimer
Let me clarify that my numbers are educated guesstimates based on a dyno run performed by TDC on a car other then my own, however, with the exact same tune. The "to the flywheel" numbers are also educated guesses based on drivetrain losses, as the TDC numbers are actually to the wheels (peak torque of 261 lb/ft) on their dyno which is known to be one of the lowest reading AWD dynos. Also, the run was performed on a 90 degree day, so figure considerably more power on these 40 degree days (less intercooler heatsoak).
Am I the only person who's read this and wished that perhaps we need a good turbo boost model (this is where someone magically comes in with a mathmatical formula for calculating boost, and the devs go "oh that was helpful, thanks") before we can start thinking about limiting it?
I like this section of the forum, I doubt the devs read it at all though, seeing as most of the suggestions are intuitive, and they have enough to be getting on with as it is. It's more somewhere where you can dream out loud, which I am, seeing as current patch test progress would indicate there are other issues taking precidence over turbo boost modelling right now.
I am not saying you couldn't break traction in the turbo based cars I have owned. I was just saying that anyone that can drive WELL can keep within the circle of traction under different loads, you just had to be more subtle with the power and think of the current car state as you apply power. Even in a non tubo car you can break traction with slight effort so a turbo is nothng different.
The thing is that going fast means you have to have enough self control to keep the power the car has in check. This is probably why some road based cars with turbo's have this setup, so that when "mummy" is taking her kids to school in her twin turbo monster it is not a handful. Too many high power cars are sold to people that would not know what oversteer is even if it jumped up, slapped them in the face and then put them backwards into a tree
A turbo is for one thing and one thing only... To increase the performance of the car. So with the exception above why limit the boost, that is the job of the driver.
I am not saying the boost model does not need improving but the idea mentioned is so far down the change stack under rain, day/night transition, proper trailing arm suspension (So that it had anti-dive properties) etc. The list is endless.
This idea is about making cars easier to driver but personally I would prefer some stupidly over powered RWD cars with no downforce. Sort the men from the boys
A car is fun when you right foot can kill you at any time. The world is too full of people wanting to wrap everyone up in cotton wool and make the world safe while LFS is about going fast and the skill required to go fast.
Please dont wrap it in cotton wool
Reading back between the lines I see what you are really after is a way to tweak the power output of the engine to make it easier for keyboard players.
The keyboard control system was cleaned up early on in S1. It used to do all you asked and more but that resulted in KB people being far faster than anyone else. It caused HUGE fights and arguments early on in S1 days and went through loads of changes to get what there is now.
Yes a car is harder to control with the KB but I guess that really shows a digital control is not suitable in this application. TBH its far far easier in LFS at the moment that rF, NKP, RBR as many do not even support keyboard and those that do are impossible anyway.
LFS is a hardcore sim of something that uses a wheel and pedals to control, A cars are not easy to hold on the edge of grip using these controls. They are even harder to hold there with arrow keys.
If you dont want to use a wheel then why not a joystick. This will give you full control over the car and they can be picked up cheap on eBay etc.