I adjust torque-bias ratio, tyre pressures and camber to get even tyre wear. Testing my endurance setup for GP Long I got it to the point where it blew both the front right and the rear left tyres braking for the same corner.
Can't get it to be much more even than that. But you do have to vary things between tracks. Practising is important, for instance I couldn't stop the front tyres from frying to begin with but after practising and gaining smoothness it was the rears that were going first, so I adjust things to take some load of the rears and back onto the front tyres.
the FXR is notoriously bad for its front tyre wear...i hope they fix that soon, as i would think an AWD would be easy on tyres. But you can try R3's at front, the lose in grip of the tyre, could be made up easy by the extra grip over a hot tyre, plus perhaps 1 less pitstop.
Like bob said, move the torque bias to the back a lil, to give the rear a work out and take some load off the front.
Turn down the brake power as well, so u can minimise or even race free of lockups, which causes alot of problems.
lets not forget the diff setinng ... locking them enough so the inside and front tyres dont spin during accel (id like to have the option to completely block the center diff)
id rather lock the center diff but maybe that just me ... moving the torque bias too far back will cause the car to oversteer and slide out of corners so youll end up with more wear on the rear than you expected
Yes and no. If you change just the torque split on a setup designed for something near the default, then yeah, it's gonna get loose. But if you take some oversteer out of the set at the same time, it works well. You just need to remember that setups need to be viewed as a whole, not as individual settings.
simply put what youre doing is adding throttle oversteer if you compensate for that by changing the suspension youll add a tendency understeer when youre off the throttle
so you might end up with a setup that eats the front tyres at the turn in
Well, only if you go silly. Most sets I've seen tend to use about 35-40% forward, which gives power understeer. I use about 25%, which gives power neutrality (or there abouts), but you can just about pull off powerslides if you try. And I still use an oversteery setup. To actually need an understeery set for the FXR you'd need to use 10% forward or something.
hmmm this really is 2 world colliding here ... i consider any setup that handles remotely like a rwd oversteery on the fxr and 25% is a lot lower than what id even ever consider using
i prefer to stay in the 40-50% region
- FredrikB -
Try this setup I made for Westhill. It's probably not the best setup you've tried, and it's definalty not the fastest, but if you drive it right, it should last for at least 60 liters of fuel from start, probably more.
I've also attached a replay of how I drive it to get the tires to last. You can probably improve both driving and setup
NOTE!
You will probably have to adjust the Maximum Lock (under steering) to suit your needs. But don't set it higher than you need to since a high lock result in "twitchy" steering witch consumes tires.
I would say most AWD setups I see are weird. For example, the typical FXR set as I see it:
Massive oversteer in springs/ARBs
Over damped
Locked diff
Torque split too far forward
Too little rear downforce
And this effects handling how:
The locked diff prevents the car from spinning due to all the oversteer, but in fact prevents it too much, hence the need for the dodgey wing angles so that high speed turn in improves (but the car understeers off at low speeds). Then the power understeer stops the car from getting too squiggley (yes, that's an engineering term) at high speeds, and helps skid recovered.
If you want to try something a little different, here's my FXR set for GP Long. Basically it's neutral torque split, neutral downforce, some oversteer in suspension, fairly open coast side diff settings to suck the car into the corner off the throttle. I find it very nice to drive, most say it's far too oversteery (but I don't consider it to oversteer as much as other sets, however there's no locked diff to stop the spin).
Here's mine, for Westhill. It's very similar to Bob's except for the Final Drive settings. Scary thing is I had a test run in Bob's after I made this set this morning.. Couldn't get comfortable with Bob's set cuz of the LSD & Torque split settings, so here's the setup that worked for me & my trusty mouse
Why do you say that? The FXR is the one car that actually is possible to bring out of a sandtrap if you mess up. It may not be the fastest kid on the block, but it will last all the way to the finish line
rofl
1) you have to stay on the road, Mr X-Ter .
2) honestly, the FXR is very (quite, at least) slow on the hotlap chart, but in endurance, it is even slower 'cause of its front tires. And using 25% front torque split does not look like a good solution to me. Take the XRR, it will handle the same, and will go faster , and using R2 is not a problem, while on the FXR you have to be so much slower if you want to do it.
Why? It helps the handling (IMO) and makes the tyre wear 100% even Front/Rear (that's a fact).
With the exception of GP Long I can use R2s at every track, and only make the same number of pitstops are people using R3s on their FXRs. Alternatively I can use R3s and make one pitstop less (fuel allowing).
Being that I can keep up with most of my team two, so long as I don't crash my strategy ensures I finish high.
As for the XRR, I've found the FZR easier to drive. Less torque and more weight on the drive wheels means the power goes down almost as nicely as in the FXR. Do the same in the XRR and I have to use far more opposite lock. Perhaps it's just my sets, but then I like to be different.
the FZR is easier 'cause you do not have the turbo lag. And it is so fast that you do not have to be very good to be fast compare to FXR or XRR.
For the Tyre wear, the XRR is just perfect. I remember a 6h endu on Historic, and after tweaking the setup, all tires were exactly used/weared (?) in the same way after 15 laps. And I can tell you no-FXR driver could compete with the average lap time we did.
For the FZR, it is the fastest and probably the easiest to drive, but in endurance ?? , the rear tires are quickly destroyed after one or two laps for me, so I do not know if the FZR's fan use R2 or not to do serious race.
I agree with Bob about the tires--I usually use R2s on my FXR as well, while most people use R3s. I tend to run a little bit into the orange on the inside edges, but I still get more grip than optimum surface temp R3s.
I've noticed that choosing softer compounds has a major effect on how much the air in the tire heats up, and having "green air" has a tremendous benefit to grip, worth even having the surface a bit overheated. Since I noticed this, I've been running lower tire pressures and softer compounds on all my setups, and I've been seeing a lot of improvment. I even use R3s on the normally tire-shredding UFR--I can actually last longer than people running R4s.
I'll have to try your setup though--I've been using a slightly tweaked one from someone named "Manu" that seems to have a pretty neutral suspension, but runs much more front downforce than rear downforce and has only a slight oversteer tendency. Might be something in the diffs or the dampers, plus I've been using 23% power split.
, but the goal is to be fast on one lap 
