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harder tyres - which setup changes ?
(11 posts, started )
harder tyres - which setup changes ?
Hi,

for the gtr cars I use flotchs setups, but they have the r2 tyres on them which last only 2 rounds. If I take r3 or r4 tyres, what other setup changes do I have to do or what do I have to be aware of. My goal is to make the setup go for 10 rounds without too much difference in the driving properties of the car.

Another newbie question for the f9 tyre screen: how do I see, when the tyres are worn out. I know that the colours show the temperature but how do I see the actual thickness ? What do the numbers above the grey bars indicate (60-60-60) ?
R2's for what car?

Many fast drivers in the endurance leagues use R2's for long races by the way They do last, it just depends on your driving and tire pressure.

And your question about th F9 thing. Well you are asking something about what you are looking for. They DO show the thickness. Over time they get very thin and once they get almost too thin, they blow The numbers below the grey bars are the temperatures on the 3 main sections of the tire (inside, middle, outside).
If you want a hotlap setup to last longer, simply reducing the negative camber will even out the wear and stop the inside of the tyres from melting.
Quote from Tweaker :R2's for what car?

Many fast drivers in the endurance leagues use R2's for long races by the way They do last, it just depends on your driving and tire pressure.

And your question about th F9 thing. Well you are asking something about what you are looking for. They DO show the thickness. Over time they get very thin and once they get almost too thin, they blow The numbers below the grey bars are the temperatures on the 3 main sections of the tire (inside, middle, outside).

On an oval race, I once saw a guy actually run the tread completely off a tire. No unexpected spontaneous blowout--he literally ran the tread to zero thickness, all you could see was the sidewalls. Really remarkable driving to be smooth enough to pull that off, too bad he didn't pay attention to his wear.
Like tweaker and bob said :
less negative camber (you have to test to find the right camber to have a perfect wear on all the tires after some laps)
more pressure
and you can tweak downforce too, the fuel added will modify the hanndling, so the wear. And less downforce is in general a good thing because you cool more the tires on the straights, while high downforce can heat up them.

For the suspension, I did not notice significant change for the wear by being soft or stiff, but may be some people have done more test and can say more on this.
#6 - Woz
and back off 1-2% and you will normally find they last far longer
Yeah, pretty much any reasonable setup should survive more than two laps on R2s - it's simply your driving style that needs fixing, not so much the setup. If you manage to trash those R2s in two laps then boy those R4s won't get you to the 10 lap mark either.

Practice, get smooth and don't try to 'push hard'. Doing that mostly results in exactly the opposite and you 1) burn your tyres and 2) drive crappy times.
hey, will you stop bashing my driving technique
the pressure/camber thing worked, i can now do 30 lap races with 1 stop on blackwood with the fzr.
I can't win them however, cause I always make mistakes when I have a slower car in front of me. The car in front makes a mistake (just as I wanted) and instead of using this I make the same mistake because I'm so focussed on him. But thats not a tyre problem I guess

AS National however eats my tyres in no time. Don't know how to make tyres last 15 laps there.
Hehe, yeah those long fast corners put alot of stress on your tyres. Just make sure you're using enough differential locking so your inner tyre doesn't start to spin in such corners.

And the driver-infront-of-you issue is quite tricky to come by. Basically you have to imagine that the driver is not there, or almost invisible. You have to concentrate 95% on the track, with the rest just remembering that there is indeed a car infront of you. If you are "looking through" the opponents car, it's also much easier to detect a motion change of it IMO.

The doing the same error thing is a classic one. You can see that on many drivers, where when one screws up, the next one does EXACTLY the same error, just because he was watching those nice backlights of the leading car and not the track.
Looking too much on the car infront of you isn't just a Sim related issue. It happens from time to time in real racing as well... A good example of this was in the Swedish Touringcar Championship. On the first lap the line of cars approached a hairpin at Gelleråsen, three cars went straight. Once the race was over the driver of the third car got the question "What happened in that hairpin?", and the reply was:

"The cars infront of me didn't brake.. so i just followed" illepall

Cheers /Jon

harder tyres - which setup changes ?
(11 posts, started )
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