I read the old thread on FXR endurance sets but then realised it was from 2005, before the physics changes, and I was wondering if Bob's tips still apply?

Should I still set my Torque bias to 20-25%?
Should I get rid of the locked diffs and put in clutch packs with high power and low coast settings?

My team are racing in the IGTC and I have a setup that will last at least 30 minutes but it's quite slow and I feel that we could still get it to last longer.

I am not asking for a setup here, I am asking for help on how to make one. By all means, post your sets but I would like to know what you did.

And, last but not least, we're racing on SO City long.

Quote from Leifde :

I read the old thread on FXR endurance sets but then realised it was from 2005, before the physics changes, and I was wondering if Bob's tips still apply?

Should I still set my Torque bias to 20-25%?
Should I get rid of the locked diffs and put in clutch packs with high power and low coast settings?

My team are racing in the IGTC and I have a setup that will last at least 30 minutes but it's quite slow and I feel that we could still get it to last longer.

I am not asking for a setup here, I am asking for help on how to make one. By all means, post your sets but I would like to know what you did.

And, last but not least, we're racing on SO City long.

The diff settings are related to suspension settings. Its impossible to recommend certain diff settings becasue they affect the handling of the car as does suspension settings. So you need to make a set that works by dialing in diff and suspension settings together.

It takes time to learn these kind of setup skills. There are no short cuts. Make a change, test it, remember the result. Do that thousands of times and you'll get good at setting cars up.

I know that but there are people on here that know about setting a car up. I am hoping for just some basic tips to help me on my way. I know it isn't easy and there's no shortcut to knowing it all but a few tips on which direction to go in can't hurt.

Quote from Leifde :

I know that but there are people on here that know about setting a car up. I am hoping for just some basic tips to help me on my way. I know it isn't easy and there's no shortcut to knowing it all but a few tips on which direction to go in can't hurt.

I am one of those people. But as I say there are no easy tips because all settings relate to one another. Here's some basics

Softer front than rear = oversteer
harder front than rear - understeer
dampers affect handling in transition i.e. kerbs, bumps
Front ARB makes the front push on and will make RWDs easier to control at exit. Downside is more understeer.

High power diff lock = inside wheel doesn't spin up much
low power diff lock = inside wheel will spin up easy

high braking diff lock - hard to turn in
low braking diff lock - easy to turn in

High rear brake bias = oversteer at corner entry while on the brakes
low rear brake bias - understeer while braking

but remeber if you change one setting you are likely to have to change another. For example, reducing front bump will not give you any more turn in if the front springs are too stiff.

Quote from Leifde :

I read the old thread on FXR endurance sets but then realised it was from 2005, before the physics changes, and I was wondering if Bob's tips still apply?

Should I still set my Torque bias to 20-25%?
Should I get rid of the locked diffs and put in clutch packs with high power and low coast settings?

My team are racing in the IGTC and I have a setup that will last at least 30 minutes but it's quite slow and I feel that we could still get it to last longer.

I am not asking for a setup here, I am asking for help on how to make one. By all means, post your sets but I would like to know what you did.

And, last but not least, we're racing on SO City long.

Come on the server with me we'll test out some setups ?

as gentlefoot says, all the settings are interrelated, so drivetrain, suspension and wing settings must all be changed together if you want your car to keep the balance it currently has.

that being said, the FXR is my main car, and i don't bother with qualifying vs race sets... i just have one set for each type of track (fast, medium, twisty), and i've tried to balance them for speed and longevity.

here are my thoughts:

- well distributed braking force is easier on tires than heavily front biased. i put as much to the rear as i can without causing the rears to lock. use the forces view to test your car and find the right bias. do this first. a lot of sets do weird things like use r3's front and r2's back, and i think it's because they are compensating for bad brake setup. i use r2's all around, all the time.

- clutch pack is definitely easier on tires than locked diff.
- well distributed torque is easer on tires than heavily rear biased. adjust diff and torque split together until you get something that turns in the way you want and is stable when you mash the gas (doesn't get too tail happy... a little bit is ok)

- don't use too much camber, it burns out the inside edges of the tires too fast.
- put the tire pressure where the weight is (ie, higher in the front). adjust these settings together until your temps are well balanced front to rear, and the inside and middle temps are the same, or close to the same, and the outside temps a few degrees colder.

- don't use too much wing. it slows you down and overheats the tires. i use 7/0 for fast tracks, and more for twistier tracks. remember to increase your spring stiffness when you increase your downforce to prevent the car from bottoming out in high speed turns.

- other suspension settings wont have much affect on longevity, but remember that if you do change your spings, dampers, arbs, ride height, etc you'll probably need to make adjustments to your camber and tire pressures to get back to the balance you had originally.

hope that helps. somebody tell me if i'm full of it! (always trying to learn more myself.)

Thanks for the advice both of you, I'm now trying what you said.