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RAC are the tyres too small ?
2
(40 posts, started )
Quote :RAC are the tyres too small ?

The tyres aren't too small, just the car itself is too big..
Wrong, the world is just too small for the RAC to (comfortably) fit in.
Quote from theirishnoob :try adding a passenger and ajusting your car witrh that slight bit more weight , kinda helps me but then again , its not really needed



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Bladey, there are these things called XRT's... :P
Quote from dawesdust_12 :Bladey, there are these things called XRT's... :P

[sarcasm] Oh sorry, my bad; I thought this thread was discussing the handling characteristics of the RAC...I must have been mistaken [/sarcasm]

That car has issues because of it's mid-engine. For a long time now, if you made a car that was mid-engined via LFS Tweak, you'd get the same performance traits to that of the RAC. Feels like a top spinning on a table.

I am certain it is the mid-engine feel... and afterall, MR cars are twitchy like that by nature. Nothing else can be done to alleviate the feel really, unless you want a really strong combination of understeer and oversteer repeatedly one after the other in a corner. If we were to get a bit better suspension geometry and less weight in the front, then we'd be ok
Less weight in the front? Actually I found adding 200kg handicap weight to the front greatly improved its handling, making it more predictable by removing a lot of the "understeeeeeeer *brush brake pedal* OVERSTEEER!!!1" behaviour. Then again, it's not like I spend any considerable time actually racing it
Quote from AndroidXP :Less weight in the front? Actually I found adding 200kg handicap weight to the front greatly improved its handling, making it more predictable by removing a lot of the "understeeeeeeer *brush brake pedal* OVERSTEEER!!!1" behaviour. Then again, it's not like I spend any considerable time actually racing it

Maybe you have too much understeer in your setup in the first place? Or could it be just your over-stiff front compression stopping the car from transferring weight to the front quickly enough whilst trail breaking on entry? How about posting me your setup so I could see what's wrong? I don't get that kind of understeer with the setup I use, unless one attempts to enter corners at silly speeds (like turning into BL1 Fw's turn 1 at 100mph ).

Remember, mid-engined cars of all drivetrain types (RWD and 4WD) are twitchy by nature. I feel that's a plus since it translates my steering commands into yaw much more quickly than any other type of car. Remember, the RA rewards finesse and subtlety more than any other road car in LFS.
Heh, thanks for the offer, but to send you "my" setup, I'd first actually need to have a setup to begin with

I think it was right after the handicaps were introduced and I felt like messing around a little. I'm not exactly sure what setup I had used, but I drove a couple laps with either (normal/handicap) around FE Black. Funnily enough I had about the same laptimes, though I didn't really try to hotlap. I think I struggle the most with understeer under acceleration, which was understandably quite reduced with more weight at the front. Overall the handicapped one was simply much more fun to drive, though obviously not at competitive speeds. It might would have helped if I had actually bothered to mount the wheel properly, instead of just steering with my left hand
For me the biggest problem with RA is the tire heating. If I find a decent setup or even a understeery one the rears heat up quite quickly. More heat to the rear -> even more heat and there you go. It can be and (would be) a great car if we had some more slow tracks. I have doubts about my drivng but I can drive the FZ50 and LX6 for many laps without any tire over heating with good setup. FZ50 can be a challenge too, but imho a lot easier than the RA.

When I was practising for the Leman league I was thinking about whether to choose RA or the FZ50. After doing the normal practise laps it became quite clear that the RA is very hard to drive at the limit on a fast track like westhill! Basically one long slide, even a small one, could make the rears too colorful. Sure, it rewards finesse but it also throws a nuke at you when you slip. For slow tracks it is wonderful car with real attitude but on most LFS tracks it is a bit too handful. Before the '06 April patch it was awful on any fast track, now it is nice but a bit too punishing.

Although it can be quite easy to drift too because when the rear goes out it doesn't want to come back in
I'm really getting into the RAC. At first I thought it was horrible, but get to know it and drive within its limits and it's brilliant. It does try to kill you if you take liberties or don't concentrate though! I use the setup from inferno (Colin Brown I think) and have set up my DFP wheel properly and it's great fun now.

See: http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=23542

FZ50 GTR is also one of my favourites, so maybe I'm just weird!
RAC is one of the, if not THE, hardest car to setup (imo). I've had very little time with it since the preload patch, but I was stuggling to eliminate the initial understeer without encouraging the transitional switch from understeer to lairy oversteer, which AndroidXP speaks of.

If anyone has a decent setup with the preload patch I'd be interested in trying it
I've never really enjoyed driving the RAC. It has very little grip & swaps ends faster than you can say . It can reward smooth driving but in race situations I find it undriveable.

I hope the devs fix it in a future patch as its the only MR sports car in the game.
#39 - JJ72
it has quite some grip actually, a lot of traction too.

my impression with it is that...you can't load the front with trail braking, it will just add more understeer, however if you pick a late apex line and coast into the corner, it is very responsive, you can even correct your line mid corner just by steering input without hurting the balance of the car. Some gas will help the rear becomes more active, however (at least on my setting) blipping the throttle won't work to bring out the rear because it's reaction is too sudden, meaning that you can't "squeeze" the rear end like you do with the XRT with little slip angle. So you have to wait until you can press the throttle firmly and won't cause understeer, and then progressively increase the throttle for the exit. Throttle induced oversteer become more controlable as you go near the top end of the engine, the low and med range is always a bit funny when you try to modulate the throttle.
If you have ever driven a midship layout vehicle in real life, you would know they handle like that, very unsteady unless u know what you are doing
a few tips
have your entry speed sorted before coming into a corner, otherwise if u leave some breaking into the corner its all over, once u have the front settled from breaking, apply a little accelration not much othersise the car transfers its weight to the rear and the car will understeer, hold ur speed throughou t the corner then once clear of the corner nail it again, also run serious rear camber like -4 degrees
if ur still using the compatable patches, run a viscous lsd forget about the ckucth packs as they suck,
if u have the new non compatable patch that has preload settings ect on diffs then run a clutch pack and run 290ish pre load and experiment with the power/coast yourself

it does have poor tyre capacity tho I will agree with you, the limit is still high tho, thats why learn to drive as is, and you will find later they will put bigger wheels,
if im not mistaken the RAC in real life they run 18's on the rear and 17's on the front = bad
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RAC are the tyres too small ?
(40 posts, started )
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