I got my new wheel today

From the old forum (Scawen) :

Driving Force Pro Settings :

Spring Effect Strength : 0 %

Damper Effect Strength : 0 %

Center Springt Strength : 0 %

LFS Settings :

Wheel turn : 900 °

Wheel turn compensation : 0.00 (Otherwise you won´t even get full 900 °)

That´s da bomb. :lovies3d:

Can put up a sticky thread for wheel configs ?

Shouldn't that be in Racing Wheels subforum?

Besides, with 900degrees you get more steering on your dfp than in lfs. 720 degrees is perfect synchronization .

Oh look there´s a racing wheels subforum. doh. can a mod move the topic please ?



Dunno about the steering though. If i set degrees of rotation to 900 in the driving force pro settings and 900 ín LFS plus wheel turn compensation to 0.00 it really turns all the way in LFS. When i had wheel turn compensation set to 1.00 then i got more steering on my dfp than in LFS.

But there isnt a car that uses 900 degrees in lfs. Street cars use 720, gtr cars n. degrees and so on.

[size]***moved to Racing wheels***[/size]

with the DFP I set the drivers to have a lock of 720 and steer reduction of 1. With full steer reduction on the DFP it means every car will have the ccorrect lock.

i don't think that's linear tho'

Driving Force Pro Settings:

Overall Effects Strength: 59%

Spring Effect Strength: 38%

Damper Effect Strength: 45%

Center Spring Strength: 101%


That's what feels best for me


Dunno how you guys can play with no resistence, if I wanna do that I'll just unplug the power supply.

Because LFS doesnt actually use the spring and damper effects, it uses constant force variation, like GPL. So you can set everything to 0% and you get just the FF that LFS is providing without any driver software induced damping or spring effects.

I've tried a lot of different settings now, but the main problem is still the same... When having to move the wheel fast I have to fight the force feedback. Its damn hard to turn the wheel, which results in me not turning it fast enough and losing control.

Anyway to fix this? Only happens in LFS, all other games I've tried have worked nicely.

Quote from Theafro :

i don't think that's linear tho'

When your wheel lock is equal to or higher than the lock of the cars in the game it is 100% linear.

Quote from AJS :

I got my new wheel today

From the old forum (Scawen) :

Driving Force Pro Settings :

Spring Effect Strength : 0 %

Damper Effect Strength : 0 %

Center Springt Strength : 0 %

LFS Settings :

Wheel turn : 900 °

Wheel turn compensation : 0.00 (Otherwise you won´t even get full 900 °)

That´s da bomb. :lovies3d:

Can put up a sticky thread for wheel configs ?

i use same settings for a very long time, except i use 720 mosto f the time to match up with the roadcars. Also.. full 900 just gets tiring after a few hours. My forearms are already big.

I'm lazy, I'm using 360 ;-)

And btw, my car can turn its wheel more than 900 degrees, I'm pretty shure on that, will try it out.

Can you post your settings in DFP driver and in LFS options in relation with force feedback?, I don't obtain proper feedback sensation with mine

I have 720º in the driver and in the game with reduction at 0, but I don't know how much put in overall, spring, etc

Your input will be very appreciated, thanks

Is there anymore info someone can add to help me setup my DFP? I just got it and im having a little trouble getting it right.

Just got the DFP as well but getting no force feedback. Any ideas? It works fine with GT4.

Also when I combine the throttle/brake it doesn't work correctly. I'm not seeing the spring/damper/center settings either

OK I got everything working but now the wheel calibration is horrible. It keeps going off. It works at 200deg. but anything more than that and it goes crazy. Any ideas?

EDIT: Set 720 in the logitech software and 720 in the game, then selected get rid of dead zones. Seems to be good now. Hope this helps anyone if they face the same issue.

EDIT again: Only gripe I have now is that the motor of the wheel is kinda loud. I feel like i'm forcing it or breaking it every time it whines. Is this sound normal?

btw i've dropped down to 100% ffb ingame from 150 and my arms dont get as tired as fast

Quote from Gabkicks :

btw i've dropped down to 100% ffb ingame from 150 and my arms dont get as tired as fast

LOL call me weak but I have it down to about 75% in game and the wheel setting on 60 rather than 100

I use 720° and a comp of 1 in LFS. This allows for exact synchronization with the game and the car.
I can't remember all my FF settings, but they are pretty low. I find 0's in the controller and 100% in LFS is a bit much.
The biggest problem I have is catching the whip back spin after you catch the first slide. Trying to turn the wheel back quickly after you catch a slide and the car is starting to spin back to where it should be is difficult. You really have to fight the FF as it gets very stiff. I usually end up spinning in the opposit direction from the original slide.

Quote from Hallen :

The biggest problem I have is catching the whip back spin after you catch the first slide. Trying to turn the wheel back quickly after you catch a slide and the car is starting to spin back to where it should be is difficult. You really have to fight the FF as it gets very stiff. I usually end up spinning in the opposit direction from the original slide.

try over and over and over again with a fairly soft setup (maybe even as soft as the road going setups) until you get a feel for reading all the small hints that tell you your car is regaining grip
once youve learned how to catch a slide and not countersteer too long on a soft setup you should gradually stiffen the suspension until its time to move to cars with generaly stiffer suspensions
in the end you should be able to catch most of your slides even in an fo8 ... it takes a lot of patience though

just a technique that could be learned from drifting.

Quote from Gabkicks :

just a technique that could be learned from drifting.

jup but i wouldnt say that too loud round here

but still the best way to learn how to catch (and hold it for cornering with the lx) a slide is by sliding deliberately

Thanks for the tips. But I wasn't commenting on my ability to recognize the whip back. I do see it coming and react, but the FF is very strong at that point for some reason making it difficult to move the wheel fast enough to recover. Going into the slide, the wheel moves easily to correct. It is the counter-correction where the FF gets too strong.

I have no problems with most of the road cars and the LRF cars although the FF is stiff in their case too. It is mostly the race cars that are a major problem for me. I think it is mostly because the whip back on the race cars is so violent. You have to spin the steering wheel quickly to catch the car once it decides to regain grip (which can be a long, long time in the XRR. Correct, correct again, hold it, starts to grip, recover, it spins more, correct, then whip back, around you go in the opposite direction...).

my point was that youll eventually learn to steer straight soon enough so you wont even have to fight a counteraction and therefore wont have to fight the ff at all