Bob Smith, why would MRT's handling change, when you switched to 900? MRT has 270 degrees, so if your wheel lock will be more, LFS wheel turn setting matchs with your wheel and WTC>0.0 (It's as linear with 0.01 as with 1 if wheel turn is more than car wheel turn), your wheel will always match with MRT's. Same for any car actually.
I think he meant he first had 540° with 0.0 WTC, which means every car did have 540° steering no matter what. He then changed to 900° with 1.0 WTC, so now the steering of the car ingame and the real wheel match 1:1. This has the effect of making the MRT much snappier, as you're practically driving with double sensitivity compared to the previous situation.
While the extra precision is better for most cars, for the MRT5 it is better to have fast steering to help catch that back end, gives a much more kart like feel.
For vehicles with less than 900 degrees steering lock at least. Which doesn't cover everything on my HDD.
Yea, but he's talking about what he set in the G25 driver options, not in LFS. The wheel turn value also only translates the car's internal turn value to a different output (as far as I understand). The car itself still has its fixed wheel turn range.
There are two things you are looking at; first is the Logitech driver settings, which when reduced in rotation to, for example, 540° not only applies a soft stop at that point, but also reports the steering input @540° as 100%. LFS doesn't know about any steering input you give if you force the wheel over the soft stop.
Second, if you change it in LFS to 540° (with the wheel in 900° mode), it is like "this car has 720° steering lock, but I want to reach full lock with 540° of MY steering, even though MY steering has a lot more degrees rotation available".
This has nothing to do with maths - just preference. At 240° you only have the choice of linear steering (WTC 0.0) or gradually more non-linear steering the nearer you get to WTC 1.0.
In LFS the wheel turn is set to 620, so all cars have slightly less lock than they are meant to, but the MRT has only a little less than its meant to. Thats why I set it to 620 as opposed to 720 or 540.
Wheel comp is 0.01, as IIRC if this is 0, all cars have the same lock (540) which is not what I want, at least this is what used to happen.
Call me lazy but I have my DFP set at 720 LFS+Wingman and Wheel Comp to 1.00.
I'm also one of those nut-jobs that have FFB in Wingman set to 48% and 100% in LFS.
Honestly it feels much better in road cars, however GTR's suffer (I dont spend enough time racing GTR to care at the moment).
I used to set my lock coresponding to the vehicle as I can only race if my wheel and ingame wheel are 1:1.
720 + 1.00 WC does this for me, although it does feel a bit different.
I'll have to mess a bit with Parallel Steer as I never really payed too much attention to it.
I just took delivery of my new G25 last week and set it up over the weekend.
Set the wheel turn to 540 degress and matched in game options. Turned compensation down to 0.00 and off we go!
Finding it very different (and much harder!) from the old Thrustmaster (270 deg rotation, with a compenstaion of 1.00)
Reduced it to 400 deg for the single seaters, but very hard to catch slides now, even in the FOX
Many more hourse practice required me thinks.........
Well if you have a 900deg wheel and are setting to less than 720, I think your making life more complex than it needs to be.
Set it to 900 across the board and use the maximum lock setting to adjust the steering sensitivity.
The cars have different maximum locks and wheel turns, so they SHOULD feel different to each other.
I have a feeling that some of you are altering the wheel turn so that all the cars respond the same to your inputs.
And I don't think this is the best way to do things, ANYway its your game so do what you enjoy.
No, the easiest way is to set your wheel in the Control Panel to 720, set it to 720 in LFS, then turn wheel compensation to 1. This way every car will use it's natural turn, i.e. fox will turn 450, bf1 400, xfg 720. The ONLY problem with this is when you turn your wheel to maximum lock, the wheel won't stop. But TBH, I don't think I have ever turned my wheel to maximum lock, if you are, you are turning too much and don't have the feel for the car anyways.. Try it, I used to change my CP settings for each car and LFS, but it's just not worth it, it makes absolutely no difference to LFS, except the STOP (the point at which your wheel provides significant force when you reach the CP setting), which as I said, you shouldn't really reach anyways
Set the G25 to 720° in the Logitech Control Panel.
Set LFS wheel turn compensation to 1 (or anything >= 0.01, doesn't make a difference in that case)
The only downside to this is that when going over the car's wheel lock, there will be no resistance in FF (something that Scawen should implement, tbh). The only way to get FF when going over the lock is adjusting the wheel rotation in the Logitech Control Panel, though you'd have to do that every time you change to a car with different wheel lock.