But how, lol I don?t understand, everytime I brake I usually steps off the trottle, thats ok enough. But also when I accelerate? Do I need to completely lift my foot off the pedal, or is it enough to just, erhm, not give full trottle?
Sounds interesting, going to hurt lol ;D
TVE - It's very simple, but I suppose this is an example of your English skills being very poor (relative to the rest of the non-English forum users).
Accelerating - When you want to change gear you will need to lift your foot off the throttle to unload the gears - it won't have to be a complete lift, and it won't have to last very long. Just like in real life. Scawen even mentioned it SPECIFICALLY in his video. Watch it again.
Braking - This depends on Scawen's level of accuracy. If clutchless shifting whilst braking, it might require you to lift off the brakes a smidgen (to unload the gears), or a jab at the clutch. Or it might be automatic. We don't know.
Some cars have built in electronic aids, like throttle or ignition cut - the Sauber, for example, will still be a flat shifter. The FBM will require a quick lift. The road cars will (probably/hopefully) require a relatively big lift.
Sorry I didn't read the whole 5 pages of this thread, so don't shoot me if I'm asking something already asked.
You tell the general opinion is that the blip/cut will be on a manual base in future. While I'm perfectly fine with this (I blip manually most of times) on road cars and maybe even on MRT etc... , I just ask myself the question what about the F1? Or the GTR's? Will they be automatic (the F1 sure is in real life) or will they also be manual. P.S: Answered by Tristan before I could ask
Second thing I asked myself: What will (the new patches physics) change to the setups in general?
Will there be a tendency in making them more stable under braking or will there be no change at all, or will the gearing, what do you guys think?
Oh really, please shut the **** up about my english knowlege, will you? I allready said that it ain`t good, and you have allready said it 3 times, no need for more, ok? Most users can easely just by looking at my post see that it ain`t a english master brain behind it, but there is no need to use that against me everytime I asking for something, or for that matter, speaks.
Belived that you got a reminder in the other topic regarding other users.
Addition to what Tristan said, people sherlocked from the language translation files (updated for the new patch) that there are five different kind of gearboxes: H-gate full manual, motorbike gearbox for MRT, sequential, sequential with ignition cut (does cutting automatically, likely for GTRs) and semi-auto sequential (does blip and cut automatically, for BF1). So the problem you saw does not exist. Difference will be now that it's a feature in the gearbox instead of driving aid (incase the cut/blip options gets removed).
I know, we are way off topic, but I am having fun with this.
It all depends on how you shift your manual. If you feather the gear in slowly with lots of gas, then yes, a manual will slip more. But, on average, I would bet the automatic clutches will slip more than a manual clutch. I don't think the torque converter will slip much. It will probably slip no more than it would when you are fully engaged in a gear and powering down the road. In other words, about 5%.
The torque converter is just two big fans stuck in fluid. One is turned by the engine, and the other is connected to the driveshaft going through the transmission. If you are changing gears and the transmission is essentially in neutral, the transmission side of the torque converter will speed up with RPM's of the engine (assuming there is little or no fuel cut to the engine). As the clutch starts to engage, the engine RPM will be brought back down relatively slowly until the clutch is fully engaged and then the RPM will start increasing again assuming you have not lifted off the throttle. That period of time where the RPM is dropping is the time where the clutches are slipping. The smoother the shift, the more slipping you get. This is why it can be good to get performance software for you slush box. The software will typically shorten the slipping time to allow for faster shifts and this in turn reduces the clutch wear. It will also give you more of a jerk on each shift.
The real problem area can be with the transmission that use a final clutch to directly connect the engine to the drivshaft (a "lockup clutch") and bypasses the torque converter. This removes the inefficiencies of the torque converter and allows for better gas mileage when cruising. However, if you are constantly varying your throttle position, like if you are in traffic or rolling hills, the lockup clutch is constantly engaging and disengaging getting hotter and hotter and burning up clutch material. It is usually the first clutch to fail. It also does nasty things to the transmission fluid. This is why it is really important to change slushbox fluid regularly. It is why most cars have a way to turn off the lockup clutch for city driving or towing (two different Drive modes on the gear shift).
So there is my layman's understanding of all of this. Did I mention how much I hate slushboxes? I had to remove the one from my E32 and have it rebuilt ($3000) and then reinstalled it (all by myself) all because BMW has a stupid policy of a "lifetime" fill of transmission fluid.
Since you quoted me there..... I just tried it tonight in moccasins. Worked very well. In just socks, my foot would just fall between the pedals. Also, having a stiffer bottom to my feet helps.
I also have the pedals mounted on a platform raising them about 4 inches in front and 6 inches in back. The angle makes it harder. I stuck a shim to raise the front a bit and it's much better.
I still wouldn't want to be doing this on a race server. Soon though, soon. Maybe I'll be ready by the patch.
Well, the amount of slip you impose on a clutch from starting with a manual, especially on a hill is what I meant mostly. That's where the majority of the slip takes place, and of course with an auto there's none. That starting slip adds up to much more than the slip of an auto's bands by quite a lot.
It depends on how hard you're accelerating. If you're driving normally, there is still plenty of slack that's taken up by the converter during a shift, which is why rpms tend to stay almost nearly constant under light throttle acceleration, at least until you hit 3rd. Of course, if you floor it then the converter is stalled constantly and there is more clutch slip. Unless as you pointed out you have the trans tuned for instant shifts, which is always better regardless of driving style.
Actually, that would only be a fluid coupling technically, which is different, and much much crappier. Torque converters use some other tricks to actually be quite efficient at transferring torque, having to do with the housing itself and geometery.
There is no neutral phase per se. It's only a matter of engaging one clutch, and sometimes disengaging another simultaneous to lock different parts of a planetary set - either the sun, the ring, or the planets. Totally locked tends to be 3rd, since locking the whole thing means 1:1 which is generally 3rd in typical boxes. But yes, under full throttle a 1->2 shift would incur some slippage since you're dragging the engine back down by changing ratios.
They generally only lock up past certain speed, so in the city it's not usually an issue. Not to mention the fact that the locking usually occurs (by design) when there is little load (with the exception of nearing top speed in 3rd or 4th at WOT, no trans I know of locks up in any gear lower than 3rd), and therefore slippage is minimal.
There would be less clutch slip if the converter were stalled. Stall RPM is quite high on modern transmissions though.
Yes, of course. But I was trying to be simplistic. There is still no direct mechanical connection between the engine and the transmission.
Of course neutral is a figure of speech to illustrate being between one gear and another. It doesn't change the fact that there will be clutch slippage every shift otherwise there would be little point in having the clutches there in the first place.
Modern transmissions can lock at any speed.
3rd gear is 1:1? Man, you are living in the dark ages (or are looking at US designed cars). My E32 was a 5 speed transmission with a locking converter back in 1994. Newer cars have as many as 6 or 7 gears in their automatics.
I don't have any facts to back up my assertion. I just know that automatic transmission are wear parts on modern cars and they will fail sooner or later. I have 140k miles on my car and it has the original clutch in it. I doubt I would have gotten that out of an automatic (but mostly because of BMW's stupid "lifetime" fluid policy.)
Even my (RIP) Nissan had locking automatic and that car was made 1986, 1.5L 3-spd auto, oh the horror, well anyways it did lock around 70kph or so.
How happy I am that I have always driven in proper manner and not utilizing bugs in program (flat shifting) so there won't be any trouble adjusting to new patch. Of course I need to be more careful a bit, sometimes I tend to make mistakes when shifting, my leg and hand are not used by same CPU it seems
Well, i know i have to get use to the new feature, since i use throttle cut and blip. I'm worried about my pedals, they already are degrating just from braking hard and i don't want it to get worse.
Huh? I can't do just one thing at time, so for example when using joystic shifter while racing lfs I may think about what to make dinner today while at same time I'm thinking my next move of overtaking and also I'm trying to predict what that other guy will do, there is always several things going on on my mind and really same time, thought it would be same for others
. My E32 was a 5 speed transmission with a locking converter back in 1994. Newer cars have as many as 6 or 7 gears in their automatics.
