I want the engine or brake can be over heat more than clutch>.<:laola:
why just make the clutch can be over heat?
Trust me, from real life race track experience.
It is the clutch that will go first.
Get held on the line for a second too long, and your clutch will start to heat, expand, drag, grip, break.
Then it takes four hours with an angle grinder to get the welded mess apart, etc, etc.
This simulator is very accurate, in many respects.
It is the clutch that will go first.
Get held on the line for a second too long, and your clutch will start to heat, expand, drag, grip, break.
Then it takes four hours with an angle grinder to get the welded mess apart, etc, etc.
This simulator is very accurate, in many respects.
hm, not rarely i can hear from commentators when i watch the race, he is stuck in let's say 4th gear, and he can't change it, i guess that's when clutch fells you down.
Clutch failure won't stop gear changes. They'll be fine.
Clutch heat might make starts more interesting, but as each start will give you a brand new clutch I don't think it'll be an issue, except perhaps the BF1.
I don't know what real racing you do shorty, but I doubt you notice clutch heat before engine and brake temps.
Clutch heat might make starts more interesting, but as each start will give you a brand new clutch I don't think it'll be an issue, except perhaps the BF1.
I don't know what real racing you do shorty, but I doubt you notice clutch heat before engine and brake temps.
So it's only a problem with starts? What about at pitting? MoE 24 hours would be nice then 
About 25 stops in the whole race.
About 25 stops in the whole race.Yes, pitting will also be an area of concern, as it's a standing start. Once you're moving you're unlikely to notice anything. Having said that, I expect that very poor driving could be the cause of the heat/wear/whatever that hinders your pitstops. But I'm sure it'll all be okay (bugs notwithstanding), as 99.999% of the time real race cars have no problems with starts or pitstops.
But, in real life you can push-start a car. You can't do that in LFS.
The clutch will increase its temperature when friction between the clutchplates has to even out the (angular) velocity at which the driveshaft and gearbox are turning. This will be particularly signifcant at starts. Also, you are probably going to overheat your clutch if you continuously flatshift. You'll have to do manual throttle blips to match the revs on downshifts, and as accurately as possible at that. This also means that quick, successive downshifts will probably no longer be good.
what effect will the clutch overheating update actually bring? really dont have much knowledge with the clutch 
trouble gearing?
im using h-shifter and clutch
trouble gearing?im using h-shifter and clutch
If this is true, it is the best improvement of clutch heat, IMO. I always hated just nailing the shifter straight down through to 2nd or 3rd as quickly as possible. Especially now, since I've got my clutch set up and find that I have to brake much earlier to give me time to concentrate and think about braking and downshifting due to heel and toeing. I'm lousy so far with that.
So, will there not be any autoclutch any more? That means i'll have to use a button. Although, one of my friends has one of those cheap $15 wheels. I'll see if he will let me borrow it.
Yea, the clutch is a very important part of realism. In a matter of seconds you can toast a perfectly good clutch by poor driving habits. Now if we can only have force feedback pedals so we can "feel" the clutch, that would add the cherry on top! Also, if you practice driving easy it can prepare you for driving a manual IRL... 
No more auto blip?? 
Its not hard to blip yourself
There will be autoclutch: sequential operation of H-pattern transmission is in the translation strings, as are sequential transmission and semi-auto transmission. There will be no auto-blip by the looks of it (goodie! 
).
As for the machinegun downshifting: the "theory" there is to improve braking performance by using the engine as a brake somewhat by downshifting earlier than you probably should and using the clutch friction to not damage your engine because by the time the revs even out, they're just below the redline so your engine doesn't get damaged. But this will now mean the clutch overheating. That's how I see it anyway. So that will probably have to stop. We'll see if my guesses are right soon.
). As for the machinegun downshifting: the "theory" there is to improve braking performance by using the engine as a brake somewhat by downshifting earlier than you probably should and using the clutch friction to not damage your engine because by the time the revs even out, they're just below the redline so your engine doesn't get damaged. But this will now mean the clutch overheating. That's how I see it anyway. So that will probably have to stop. We'll see if my guesses are right soon.
It is if someone uses a combined throttle/brake axis
so will the auto blip still be there? because I mostly drive the BF1.06 which does have auto blip IRL, which would make it less realistic.
BF1 has its own type of transmition and as in real life, it will have auto blips...
The current belief (from dissecting the new language files) is that the auto-blip and throttle cut will be removed as driving aids but certain cars will have ignition/throttle management available as the real cars do.
Damn. No point in auto clutch if there's no blip. Autoclutch reeks havoc on blipping. it's too fast and it's hard to blip and not fire the car forwards while braking.
Then just use a button for the clutch, and then use it when you feel like blipping.
Workaround should be a specified "blip button", you can already bind a button for throttle even if you have pedals configured, but pressing the button has no effect though.
It's fücked up if there's some way or another autoblip for keyboarders or combined axis users. For example currently if you choose mouse/keyboard, the blip/cut options in the player options menu are not even visibile, they're always on.
I've used auto-clutch with no blip or cut since I started playing LFS, it's hardly hard, up until now all you've had to do is simply mash the throttle pedal sometime between shifting and the rear end locking up seeing as it has so far been purely to keep the car stable, not mechanical sympathy.
Me too... I just release the throttle to shift... is it that hard?
I use autoclutch because... I don't have a clutch xD. If you are a machinegun-shifter... just release it until you get to the desired shift, if you are a heel-toer, well, you can't machine gun. I still can't get what the problem is.
Remember, if we see races on tv and nothing happens to the clutch, why should something happen to us?
Ditto. Should be fine.
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why just make the clutch can be over heat?
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