i don't know if any of u noticed that (i gues u would have noticed that so is it just me??), but every next lap the car becomes slower and slower, i'm talking about the speed... first lap ok, second lap loosing ca 5km\h at the straight, then the next lap worser and worser and worser... don't get it? tried on fox and the new formula bmw... what could it be? the clutch indicator (if i get it right in f9 and f10 menus the box with letter ct?) would only get a slight movement.. only a bit of red shows up... what could it be?

Btw, i tried to accelerate with my clutch on for a minute... but... the ct didn't go up for a half nor one forth way... what about that?

Alot of cars I've driven have an auxillary air valve governed by the ECU to maintain a steady idle. It also means that if you pull of just using the clutch as a side effect it will allow more air into the engine to counteract the dip in revs.

and the barriers are still buggy

Quote from Dark Elite :

It's certainly worth noting that the clutch pedal (I've tested it on my DFP using the brake axis as a clutch) has no free movement whatsoever, and full clutch pedal depression is right on the biting point of the clutch. This means that anything but full pedal depression is resulting in the clutch being partially engaged, and so it feels somewhat different to real driving. This, EeekiE, might be where you're finding difficulty adapting to the clutch control needed, in that there's no free play in the clutch whatsoever.

I've changed the axis properties of the controller so give such dead zones but it's not the issue. You apply the smallest crack of throttle to hold revs steady at around 3000rpm, and the slightest hint of any clutch connection causes them to divebomb, even in the road cars.

I'm more than used to a sensitive or harsh clutch. To go from nothing, to just biting in my own, you don't move your foot, you imagine you're moving your foot and then it engages, it's THAT sensitive. It's almost an idiometer movement, but at the moment the clutch starts to bite, the engine doesn't just divebomb. So I would say it's more a problem with engine modelling than clutch modelling. It's just expressed when using the clutch.
It feels as if the engines have no inertia or flywheel whatsoever, even in the road cars, yet if you blip the throttle and wait for the revs to fall it seems to take an eternity almost. Very strange!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CyTG6gYudz8 - Very light, revs fall quickly when I lift off, yet no divebombing when clutch is slipping. I can even pull off without any throttle, on a ceramic 3 paddle clutch.

I was driving around new SO with XFR and... If you go into box on neutral and turn on pit limiter, the car will stall.

And second bug, if you have puncture and goes into box, you get new tyre, but unfortunately it has no air inside

btw if you have some damage, it won't get repaired. Is that intentionally?

Anyone else notice how the engine turns off if you leave it idling too?

Quote from zipper (cze) :

btw if you have some damage, it won't get repaired. Is that intentionally?

Not too sure, but I believe its a server option?

sorry for my bad english..
Sir Scawen,The tyres burn SO FAST!!!!!! in 1 lap i need change my tires...(i do drift,not race)..please,do news tires for drifting,road normals but it dont do so much smoke because in lfs X10 i can do 3 laps in SO city long, and in X30 only 1

Quote from canovi88 :

sorry for my bad english..
Sir Scawen,The tyres burn SO FAST!!!!!! in 1 lap i need change my tires...(i do drift,not race)..please,do news tires for drifting,road normals but it dont do so much smoke because in lfs X10 i can do 3 laps in SO city long, and in X30 only 1

[OT]Actually, maybe a set of "drift" tyres wouldn't be a bad idea? They're available IRL (obviously not called drift tyres, I forget the name) [/OT]

The new tyres are far more realistic, try drifting around a city with a XRT IRL and see how far you get

D1 use normal high-performance road tyres and just burn them out quick.

"Drift Tyres" has been discussed before, and written off as being stupid.

Quote from Jakg :

D1 use normal high-performance road tyres and just burn them out quick.

"Drift Tyres" has been discussed before, and written off as being stupid.

Ah, thought they might be

Jakg: Not sure what you mean by normal high-perfomance tires, but if semi-slicks like Toyo R888 then yeah

But which those are the ones in lfs - normals, supers, or neither?

About tires blowing out - in real life usually drift runs aren't as long as they are in lfs. Often drifter does few laps around short section then goes back to "line/queue". In the meantime while waiting the temperature goes down, therfore so does the pressure in tires and the tires can last another few runs - and so on. Until they're dead. Ofcourse in tsuiso battles with many reruns things happen earlier. Even during practice some tires last weirdly short, and some are like lasting "forever"(but not as long as lfs x10 normals).

Hovewer this is how it is in european events like in IDC, KOE etc, I've never saw D1 live.

Suming this up, I think normal tires actually blow out after a real amount of time. They probably could last longer, or not, but it's real right now. Hovewer, the tires we had before - lasted way too long.

I also agree with some opinions about rev limiter. It indeed seems to be working wrong. Maybe it's easy to do such rev limiter in real life? I don't know. Anyone with mechanical knowledge? Tristan help out here maybe please.

they are using semi slicks "D1GP" but lfs xrt fz5 havnt enough power fz5 maybi but engine in rear

Quote from kamkorPL :

I also agree with some opinions about rev limiter. It indeed seems to be working wrong. Maybe it's easy to do such rev limiter in real life? I don't know. Anyone with mechanical knowledge? Tristan help out here maybe please.

I don't know much about the mechanical aspect of the revlimiter, but it certainly doesn't feel or sound right...correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't it sound more like the Pit Limiter?

Quote from Stigpt :

No its not. I dunno what kind of car you have, but when I get it going without touching the accelerator (which I regularly do), my ACCELERATOR PEDAL does NOT strat depressing by itself...

Go try to start a car by lifting off the clutch slowly, do NOT touch the accelerator, and the car will start moving (as expected) BUT the green bar starts going up, trying to prevent a stall (as it shoudlnt be)

Even though I seem to have misunderstood you, I can inform you it's not uncommon that the air/fuel mixture changes with varying load conditions

after this patch tyres burning very fast that +1 3,5 lap in fe gold rev w fz5 and pop :!

If your clutch is too hot (about 2/3-3/4 of CT bar), you are not able to go out from pit stop, because LFS is pressing a brake a little.

On the clutch situation.

My thinking is that the pressure plate springs are not strong enough. The clutch should engage more strongly against the flywheel. The clutch acts like it is already worn down to the nubs.

If I shift the XRG like I do my real car, the Engine RPMs stay high, and then slowly work down to the lower level and this is after I have let the clutch all the way out. This does not happen on my real car even at the track when I am shifting rapidly. Once I have the clutch all the way out, the engine RPMs get drug down quickly to the level the transmission is at. There is minimal clutch slipping going on.

I haven't found a way to shift the XRG without burning up the clutch in a short time. I am using a clutch pedal with auto clutch off.

I agree, Hallen. Feels like a really really worn clutch to me.

Well, I guess it is bit of linear still too.

But is it bug or feature that needs improvement?

I don't get how people are melting clutches? I can rag the arse of a H-box on a G25 and get nothing more than 2 pixels of heat, or is that what people mean? I tried flat-shifting and stopped toe-heeling and then it soon shot up, but that's how it should be I think. It's another thing to learn.

I agree Eric. And JTBo I think you're on the right track about the linearity, at least it feels that way.

Fixing that might resolve the clutch wear (too rapid) problem on the road cars, but in a proper way. I say this because slipping a clutch too much SHOULD damage it, but possibly the current clutch is too easy to slip, maybe because of what Eric said?

A friend and I almost burned his clutch right up in about 10 seconds of him failing to do a brake stand properly - to the point it had to be replaced since it wouldn't hold that well under WOT. Smoke and everything; he thought it was tire smoke - it was not!

So, you should be able to burn a clutch pretty easily if you try, but it shouldn't happen quite as easily when not purposefully abusing it. This is why I think Eric / JTBo are on the right track with this; it's not a longevity issue it's a pressure/friction issue possibly.

edit: I'm also a bit stumped by people over heating them, since I can shift pretty aggressively in the GTT (haven't had a lot of time to test other cars) without getting too much heat into the clutch. By aggressive I mean engaging the throttle right before letting the clutch out, giving a bit of a surge but not flatshifting. hmm, the more I think about it I only think the road car clutch heating might by very slightly too much, but it's hard to say how much in quantifiable terms.

heres the accelerator bug in video goodness:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhntrKVvU6A

Not a bug. Merely an effect of the ECU (or a mechanic effect within the engine) opening the throttle to try and keep up idle RPM. The same thing happens in LFS X10, but there the auto-clutch kicks in that prevents stalling, so all you see is the clutch and throttle bar jumping up and down rapidly.

Quote from shiny_red_cobra :

That's what I was wondering when I posted about it at the beginning of this thread.

Some higher end cars, like mercedes, do that fo \r security purpose I think, but most cars, like the 240sx, RX-7, Rustang, s2000, Trucks, etc dont do that. It's a more common feature now, but most cars dont, or at least, dont HAVE to have you do that.