whats wrong about those though is that you have to use the clutch to shift them
personally id expect all of the h gate gtrs to have unsynced boxes that can be shifted quickly without using the clutch
What fu**ing tiptronic?! It's not a tiptronic, YOU use it as tiptronic but in the game it's an "H" shifter in most cars... Stop whining and think for a second how more interesting the races are gonna be when everyone will differently change the gears.. it adds to the dynamic of the racing and adds to the immersion... Real life is not CLEAN, there are tons of factors that can mess up your lap time or race and among them is miss shift, missed rev match, etc... and it's about time that these stuff are in LFS also...
You can still do that, but with the RPM, not the MPH. In real life most race cars don't even have speedometers. Given the drive towards realism, I would not be surprised (in fact, I'd be delighted) to see LFS get rid of the speedo hud option completely for certain cars.
LFS models H-gate gearboxes with a manual clutch and no throttle cut or blip, there is an aid that automatically does the clutch for those without a suitable controller arrangement, that's it. If you want the car to last and be quick you will have to control the throttle yourself in gearshifts.
Col answered for me, I know you can still look at 90 degrees....
Same thoughts as mine. Which seems that you have already addressed if I had read further...
I'd just like it to be possibly reversed, as an option. Or even better, the option of using separate buttons for each view.
Again, I think in terms of road cars where I have a rear view mirror and don't need to be seeing the exact same image in my side mirrors. Though, I also use 50-60 FOV, thus I can't see a car at my front corner, so the 45 is a nice feature. Just would like to configure it to 2 separate buttons so I don't have the cumbersomeness of hitting both paddles (my view buttons) to see a car overtaking.
Actually, in the FBM you should pull the paddle just before you lift the throttle. But that's not the point.
The need for throttle cut on upshift is not more realistic because it's harder to handle, but because it's how it works on respective rL cars. By your logic, you might as well be in favor of brake help, throttle help, steering help and all other sorts of arcady features, because they basically do electronically what a good sim driver would do manually.
So maybe LFS is in fact not the right game for you?
Great patch! Lots of nice little additions and the FBM is quite fun once you dial out the understeer and get used to it.
A few questions about the changes:
Just to be sure: is this inertia as in the engine takes longer to spin down or inertia as in resistance to yaw acceleration of the whole car?
From test driving I get the feeling that one of my major gripes with LFS, cars are too spin happy with open diffs (leading to unrealistic diff settings), has gotten a lot better so I assume the answer is the latter?
I'm interested in the idea behind this one. People are already using positive camber on the front wheels to make the tryes work longer so making the tyres even hotter than they already are doesn't seem right to me. In LFS tyre overheating already plays a more important role than tyre wear which I don't think is the case in real racing.
I'm just guessing this is perhaps an attempt to achieve the "one or two fast laps" effect that we see in real racing? In reality the reason new tyres drop off suddenly is not because they overheat but because when they are brand new and get heated up for the first time chemical reactions take place in the rubber compound that cause extra grip.
From what I've seen in terms of tyre temperatures I feel LFS tyres should probably cool off more on the straights.
Would be great if you could give us some comments on this.
I completely agree Bandit, without a clutch, it's like you are in a car with automatic transmission, and taking your foot off the throttle which BTW, i might add NEEDS do be below 45% or so doesn't feel, look or act right. Linsen you sit here whining, as if we are asking for something really stupid i'm sure bandit(aswell as i) can blip on downchange if we wanted to just as much as cut the throttle, but it's like someone keeps switching my paddle shift off, It doesn't feel consistant enoug to me either, sometimes i can blip sometimes not, sometimes i can change gear othertimes not, and before i know it, i have a messed up clutch. Infact I did 20laps on SO6 cutting the throttle on every upchange, and just letting the engine dictate the revs on downdchanges as not to overrev with blip on downchange, and i STILL had a bust up clutch.
So it someone modelled all the wheels as squares and you didn't like it, others said it was un-realistic, others didn't care but then it's YOUR fault you can't get used to it? Sure, it's not THAT similar even metaphorically, but you get the point, you can't blame anyone for wanting problems smoothed out, it's not the fact it's something new at all, if that was the case me and Bandit would hate the FBM.
dan i know what your saying, but i know your a biker (same as me) and as such you should know the proshift system that can be fitted top any road/race bike and that is a case of a button on your clip on that when you press the button will auto cut the engine and change gear without using the clutch, so i can see what bandit77 is saying, its harder yes is it more realistic... yes is it 100% realistic ..... no, but its better. I feel like players who dont have a g25 are being shafted.
But thats the thing, it isnt a problem, it's taking an unrealistic system, and making it more realistic.
It doest even make it difficult, all you have to do is take ya freakin foot off the throttle when changing gear....
@andy, sure, dynojet do a quick shift system, but there just because there is a retrofit quick shift system available, it doesn't mean lfs should have it.
Bottomline IRL in nearly all cases you MUST lift the throttle to change gear, why should lfs be any different?
I think the main purpose of this change is to fix that even for the longest races you always used the softest or second softest compound, and that tyres were generally lasting much longer than you had fuel for.
Though I'd really like to see the effect you described, too. Is it really a chemical process that gives *more* grip for the first few laps, or is it rather the compound hardening due to the heat cycles you put into it that result in *less* grip after a few laps, with the grip loss levelling out after the rubber has "fully" hardened?