lol, what's funny is that an automatic still has clutches, just not the same way a "standard" car does. Read up on how an auto works dude, it's quite interesting actually!

Not all torque converters have to have a clutch inside them, and the clutch has a completely different role in an automatic, there's no manual control of it, it's not used for pulling away and removing it wouldn't prevent a car from driving conventionally. You understood my point but just had to be anal

how about keeping automatic transmissions off the racetracks and off this thread..

BUG (I think): Reverse gear doesn't seem to affect the clutch heat at all. When it's slipping in forward gear you can still go flat out in reverse without any adverse affects & the heat doesn't increase.

This is using paddles & auto clutch (can't afford a G25 yet :[ :[).

To all the people that think the engines are too forgiving with stalling, please can you upload some videos of some quick getaways from 2500-3000rpm in any of the slow road cars, as you would in your own road car.
To make any kind of brisk getaway in LFS I've always just pulled off as I would my on real car, but instead- having the revs near 6000-7000rpm. You can hear this too when you're online in the pits. It's the "natural" thing to do in with LFS clutch and engine modelling. It's not really a problem, until probably now with clutch heat modelling.

I can pull away in for all intents and purposes a real race-hatch quite briskly using only 2500rpm or so.

I cannot pull away in an LFS demo road car, using a healthy 3000rpm, without either riding the clutch and awkwardly and massively compensating with the throttle to keep the revs steady, or the engine completely bogging down and then accellerating from 500rpm.

Although I'm now wondering whether "Race S" has a much longer ratio 1st gear than a would-be road car has.... perhaps this is what it is.

^^ You can pull away with ease in the FBM, a racing engine and clutch, that's hardly realistic is it? My guess is you've not got your pedals set up properly.

Quote from ajp71 :

Not all torque converters have to have a clutch inside them, and the clutch has a completely different role in an automatic, there's no manual control of it, it's not used for pulling away and removing it wouldn't prevent a car from driving conventionally. You understood my point but just had to be anal

First of all, yeah, exaclty, you are correct!

no no no no no no no no...

All I was trying to say there was that an auto has "clutches" but they are not the same thing as a clutch in a manual car. They work different.

Look:lol, what's funny is that an automatic still has clutches, just not the same way a "standard" car does. Read up on how an auto works dude, it's quite interesting actually!

What proportion of US cars do not have a clutch? Are you referring to automatics? I can't think of a car that doesn't have one.

Me: what's funny is that an automatic still has clutches, just not the same way a "standard" car does. Read up on how an auto works dude, it's quite interesting actually! (this is not meant to be "go study and come back" but rather, "Hey I just read this awesome book, you should check it out!"

Are we all clear now?

Quote from ajp71 :

Not all torque converters have to have a clutch inside them, and the clutch has a completely different role in an automatic, there's no manual control of it, it's not used for pulling away and removing it wouldn't prevent a car from driving conventionally. You understood my point but just had to be anal

First of all, yeah, exaclty, you are correct!

no no no no no no no no...

All I was trying to say there was that an auto has "clutches" but they are not the same thing as a clutch in a manual car. They work different.

Look:lol, what's funny is that an automatic still has clutches, just not the same way a "standard" car does. Read up on how an auto works dude, it's quite interesting actually!

What proportion of US cars do not have a clutch? Are you referring to automatics? I can't think of a car that doesn't have one.

Me: what's funny is that an automatic still has clutches, just not the same way a "standard" car does. Read up on how an auto works dude, it's quite interesting actually! (this is not meant to be "go study and come back" but rather, "Hey I just read this awesome book, you should check it out!"

Are we all clear now?

PS: I wasn't talking about the torque converter, but rather the clutches that are in a pack deep in the transmission body where the planetary gear sets and all the other junk is..

Scawen spined in his first Formula bmw test,but the formula car in the game maybe a little too steable,F1 can "drift" like the old patch.

if the formula car could spin like F1C, LFS would be better.

Oh, believe me, it can spin. :P

Quote from shiny_red_cobra :

After the engine stalls, why do I have to press the ignition twice for the engine to start again? I tried it many times so far, and every time I had to press it twice to start.

Also, when the car is in neutral, you still need to press the clutch to start the engine. Right now you can start it without the clutch.

I agree, the ignition and starter key should be seperate,

but it is kinda pontless since you shouldnt be turning off your car in a race.

I noticed on manual with no shift help you cant pull it out of gear anymore without using the clutch. You can easily do this in real life, it's how I pull my car out of gear actually. But it seems to hang up since this new patch.

Quote from ghost racer :

I noticed on manual with no shift help you cant pull it out of gear anymore without using the clutch. You can easily do this in real life, it's how I pull my car out of gear actually. But it seems to hang up since this new patch.

Depends, if the transmission is under load, you wouldnt be able to pull it out without the clutch.

Quote from danowat :

Depends, if the transmission is under load, you wouldnt be able to pull it out without the clutch.

Yes, I'm not de-accelerating or have any load on it. I'm keeping the momentum correct.. It just wont push out right. I dont use the clutch to pull out of gear in my car at all in real life. It just doesn't seem to work right on LFS since the X30 patch.

Plus it's werid how you need the full clutch to change gears (up and downshift). I could up shift fine IRL with about half clutch just fine into the next gear (with pushing much clutch. Makes down-shifting with a clutch funny on sequential.

I do like how it's not as much "flat" shifting anymore..

hi, im not sure if this is the right section, but i was in ltc and 1 of the members of my team (MCR_Datz It) left the pits and we could not see his car at all, and he was not able to start it

Quote from FPV_125 :

hi, im not sure if this is the right section, but i was in ltc and 1 of the members of my team (MCR_Datz It) left the pits and we could not see his car at all, and he was not able to start it

not sure if it's a physics issue, but a replay would help a lot in your case

Quote from ajp71 :

^^ You can pull away with ease in the FBM, a racing engine and clutch, that's hardly realistic is it? My guess is you've not got your pedals set up properly.

I cannot tell what revs the engine is doing with the dashboard, and I wouldn't know how such a car pulls away anyway. My point is the road cars are nothing like the road cars, and indeed nothing like a real race hatch.

Quote from ghost racer :

Plus it's werid how you need the full clutch to change gears (up and downshift). I could up shift fine IRL with about half clutch just fine into the next gear (with pushing much clutch. Makes down-shifting with a clutch funny on sequential.

Not quite sure, but I think this has to do with where the biting point of the clutch is. Afaik, you can calibrate your clutch in LFS to have the biting point much earlier than with the default calibration where you obviously have to depress the clutch pedal fully. I don't have a clutch pedal, so I'm not 100% sure about this, but it's what others stated in different threads.

Quote from DeadWolfBones :

BUG (I think): Reverse gear doesn't seem to affect the clutch heat at all. When it's slipping in forward gear you can still go flat out in reverse without any adverse affects & the heat doesn't increase.

This is using paddles & auto clutch (can't afford a G25 yet :[ :[).

Anyone confirm or deny this?

Quote from DeadWolfBones :

Anyone confirm or deny this?

Tested with RB4 at Blackwood, clutch heats at reverse and starts slipping just same way as in 1st gear.

Used paddle shift + auto clutch.

So no confirmation based on this test. Don't know which car he did use?

So now that we finally have a working clutch and engines to stall, all we need is just force feedback pedals so that we can actually feel the point where the clutch grips ...

Quote from Linsen :

Not quite sure, but I think this has to do with where the biting point of the clutch is. Afaik, you can calibrate your clutch in LFS to have the biting point much earlier than with the default calibration where you obviously have to depress the clutch pedal fully. I don't have a clutch pedal, so I'm not 100% sure about this, but it's what others stated in different threads.

This is true, but it really should be addressed by Scawen. In the real world you almost never have to push the clutch in completely in order to release the load on the transmission, since the biting point of the clutch is usually near the top of the pedal range. But in LFS you have to depress the clutch fully for the clutch to engage. It was this way in X10 and earlier patches as well. The physics should be changed so that rather than having the clutch engage linearly from the bottom to the top of travel, it should have some dead space at both ends, and the biting point should be near the top third of travel.

There are workarounds (DXTweak, calibration lock), but they shouldn't be necessary.

Quote from DeadWolfBones :

Anyone confirm or deny this?

I deny it. I took the XRT and my G25 and fried the clutch in reverse. It did not move any direction after this.

the engine dies after idling for a few minutes.

is it suppose to be like that or is it a bug? hmm... my car engine or any car engine doesnt die after idling for a few minutes.

btw... the clutch does heat up way to fast. Been out testing with my own car, doesnt slip as fast as wat the game claims

Quote from Cue-Ball :

The physics should be changed so that rather than having the clutch engage linearly from the bottom to the top of travel, it should have some dead space at both ends, and the biting point should be near the top third of travel.

It doesn't engage linearly - it has a very distinct bite point at the top/end of LFS' ingame clutch travel. Most of the bottom travel does nothing. By applying a DxTweak/calibration fix the clutch becomes very real IMO.