Free? Yes.
Good? Debatable.
No download? Not a hope in hell. Unless you count Runescape, but nobody does.
Archlord is free, and I think RF Online is too. Beta tested both, not impressed by either.
They just announced today that Fury (which actually sounded alright when it was released) is also going free with that old "pay to make your character better" deal.
Hellgate: London doesn't have a subscription, but I think you still need to pay for the box.