Quote from robps :

Yes, but we're driving AS3, and there are only about 4 corners per lap that put heat in the tyres ;P

lol.. CD Robps speaks the truth!

Quote from Hyperactive :

Other than that it is great that finally the R4s could be usable as well but it seems a bit gamish solution to have so big differences between R2/3/4. 15 degrees steps per each set in optimum temps? Add the grip differences and you will still have one clearly best tire compound, if it is the R3 in the GTRs now. If the devs want to make the different tire compounds more equal and each usable - shouldn't the differences between the tires be smaller? Or offer more than three coumpounds to choose from? The best tire compound should be really different in 5 laps race than it is in 50 laps race. Just thinking aloud in wrong place .

Scawen said that the R1s were there purely for the MRT and to function as autocross tires, where you need them to heat up fast and be sticky for a minute or two. I guess that would make the R2s very soft qualifying type tires. If that's the case, I don't think that we should expect a whole lot of laps out of them. They could still be quite useful on short races though. Especially short races in the lighter and less powerful cars.

While R3s might be used a lot more now (which was the intention), R4s might still be handy for endurance races at the twistier tracks. Also, if LFS ever gets variable track temps, the differing compounds will be much more useful. Hot tracks will almost require the use of R4s while cold tracks could very well allow the R2s last for many laps without overheating.

Quote :

I really hoped that the new clutch thing would provide an advantage to people with a clutch pedal, but as the clutch gets too hot after a few laps (no matter how fast you jump off the clutch or bury it), it turns out to be a hinderance, especially as you only need to come off the gas a little using the auto method in order to flip the next gear in, and the clutch heat never changes.
Not at all sure why the bar for the clutch heat is so long, once it's a 10th of the way filled, the clutch is already hot enough that gears engage slugglishly, and much more than that and the clutch is apparently completely fried.
I've not tested it with all the cars, just the new one, which I would expect to have a racing clutch anyway, and therefore be pretty resistant to heat, and capable of taking much abuse. It's not like I ride the clutch at all, although after a few laps, it feels like I've been sat at traffic lights on a steep incline, riding the clutch for 5 minutes because I didn't want to use the handbrake.

You have, then, tested the clutch heating simulation solely in a car which you had never driven without it, and a car that also happens to have a very weak clutch. Not to mention a sequential gearbox, so what you're using the clutch pedal all the time for is beyond me... That doesn't seem a very fair test, and, having driven all of the cars with the clutch heating simulation, I don't think it's as inaccurate as everyone seems to be saying.

The reason the clutch temperature bar is 'long' - actually, I think it's quite short, but it needs to fit in the F9/10 menus - is that the clutch isn't simply 'working' or 'not working'. Once the bar has filled enough to be coloured red, the clutch starts slipping, and then proceeds to slip more and more easily until the bar is completely filled, at which point the clutch is completely incapable of engaging. It's a dynamic system, which runs from very little effect at the point at which the bar goes red, right up to an immobilising effect when the bar is full. If anything, the bar should be a bit bigger, so we have more idea how much heat the clutch can deal with before it starts to let go.

Sam

so its like this then:

if the clutch slips a little all the time because of minor overheating -> more friction -> heat -> more slip

so when clutch heats beyond a certain %, it is doomed pretty much

I'm Not Sure of this information, but someone told me you can adjust seat height and all... Is that true? I haven't found out yet.

Edit: Nevermind, I found the X, Y and Z settings to adjust the driver's position.

I can't use the clutch anymore. I use a button on my old Dual-shock. When i press it to get the revs up mid-drift it stay's semi-engaged so i then end up bare doing 40 kph in fifth :P
Bug or feature?

Quote from Flotch :

BTW, maybe it is just me who have to learn how to drive cleanly

You're going insanely fast in the corners, that's why!
When I'm comparing your hotlaps to mine, you seem to be much more aggressive in the corners. Same thing with biggie. My cornering/throttle usage seems more smooth, yet I pull almost the same split times. But then again, we all have different driving styles.

But I agree, I think too they are heating a tad bit too fast.

Removing the XRT from demo. its a good idea. but mean just let the XFG on demo its will brink everyones to come on S2 but the same way i guess Lfs will loose a lot of peoples i know demo its free but another idea can maybe praticed to lfs, payin a demo licence for got the XRT back and XRG like 5$ for xfg and 10$ for XRT in us devise. =) so now maybe peoples will pay it if they's can buy the full S2 . and a demo isnt a full game is a demo in general demo its a limit of time for trying before buying.. its my idea i dont know if they's want to bring it but its just an new idea

Quote from Cue-Ball :

Have you tried viewing a replay when this kind of stuff happens? If the replay shows it, it might be easier for Scawen to investigate.

True, I'm going to check if I can repeat it again.. since I didn't save anything because the computers would crash when the whole choppy porb on LFS happend...

It a bit weird now... its like removing the XRT is forcing you to buy S2... and sadly I don't have enough and I don't know if I can win one from that site that gives them away as a prize if you winn a series of races.

Oh well, but yes, I'll check on that Cue-Ball

Quote from Lotesdelere :

The 'problem' is that as they are now R3 tyres don't heat up enough. As if we needed R2.5 tyres.

IRL you never have the perfect tire compound or setup option, everything is a compromise.

Quote from joen :

There´s rich people in poor countries and there are poor people in rich countries.

Don't I know it! Some say that I'm rich because I'm in a rich country. I'd like to know where all my riches are

The main thing I don't like is the step back from realism with the rev limiter. Real cars don't limit revs, its up to the driver to control that. You took away throttle blip etc that's fair enough, it adds realism, but to then take away driver control of his revs, I think is a step backward. I suspect the real formula bmw is limited revs since it's a training formula class. I know you are mad on realism, and I love realism, and stepping away from realistic rev control is a bad idea.

Venus

Quote from Venus :

Real cars don't limit revs, its up to the driver to control that.

I don't think that's the case. I haven't been in a car that doesn't have a rev limiter. You rarely hit it because most cars run out of breath way before you rach redline.

AFAIK, GT cars and F1 cars have adjustable rev limiters within a few hundred revs. GP2 cars too probably. But since we don't have proper engine damage and wear, it's not a good idea implementing that just yet because everyone will just go for the highest rev limiter option.

Hi,
As I read through the changes and as I tried the new patch I have to remind me with my clutch mapping issue which I post here.

Thanks

Quote from R34GTR :

I just finally decided to give the new AI a run, and I must say, WOW, they are so much faster, I couldn't keep up with them on some combos. Excellent work Scawen

No kidding... guess whos having offline fun

Yesterday i blow my tires in online race (x30). So i decided to go to pit for new one. I get a new tyres but without air pressure. Lazy mechanics.

Quote from Not Sure :

so its like this then:

if the clutch slips a little all the time because of minor overheating -> more friction -> heat -> more slip

so when clutch heats beyond a certain %, it is doomed pretty much

If you drive everywhere flat-out, yes. But if you moderate the throttle so that you don't overload the clutch (or use it less often, if you don't have variable throttle control), the clutch will cool back down again.
Having experienced a few knackered clutches in my time, it seems to model what happens with an overheating or worn-out clutch pretty well.

Quote from atledreier :

I don't think that's the case. I haven't been in a car that doesn't have a rev limiter. You rarely hit it because most cars run out of breath way before you rach redline.

True: very, very few modern cars don't have rev limiters. In fact, I can't think of a road car you can buy in the UK today that doesn't have a rev limiter. You can almost always reach it in at least the first three gears, though - rev limiters are mostly set quite low these days, to avoid damage from excessive thrashing. The exceptions, I guess, are smaller-engined cars such as the Ford Ka - which didn't want to get too near its rev limiter when I tried

Plenty of older, cheaper cars don't have limiters, with an early Nineties Ford Fiesta coming to mind. Certainly all of the cars in LFS now should have rev limiters, though, and all of them... With the possible exception of the UF1... should be able to reach them.

Sam

MRT BUG?

The car starts and i can rev the engine but it won't let me select a gear. What's wrong? Every other car works fine....

Quote from Nordic :

MRT BUG?

The car starts and i can rev the engine but it won't let me select a gear. What's wrong? Every other car works fine....

Try shifting down. MRT has a motorcycle gearbox, so first gear is down instead of up (1-N-2-3-4-5).

Quote from Nordic :

MRT BUG?

The car starts and i can rev the engine but it won't let me select a gear. What's wrong? Every other car works fine....

the mrt got the same gearbox like the fbm now (at least i can shift with the same technique as in the fbm)

edit: and what geeman said of course

Quote from Lotesdelere :

No, not for racing where manufacturers will obviously make optimal tyres.

Dunlop make tires with 6 different compound choices for GT cars, one of them is designed as an extremely hard tire for hot climates, so useless in UK/LFS conditions, so make that 5 you also don't normally get that much choice because not every tire size has all the compounds available, for reference the hard compound will last for 3 hours on a GT car, the med/hard is good for a 2 1/2 hour stint with the right driver and car so you're only really looking at 3 compounds for a shorter race, presumably the very soft tire is a qualifying style tire (R2) and soft compound will still be designed for a good hours work to be useful in some kind of endurance racing purpose, it won't be optimum over a 15 minute period but IRL you don't have a choice.

Quote from paublo999 :

as for the tyres -
AS3 Turn 1 in an FZR, even the slightest mistake costs you a set of tyres... I can just make R2' last 10 laps, R3's can do loads more... 2.5 anyone?

If one mistake costs you a set of tires and you're struggling with a 15 minute race then quite simply you're running too soft a compound or a badly setup car (most likely both). The fact you have to make a choice over compounds is exactly what the tires should be about not just slap the softest tires on for any purpose.

Quote from Venus :

The main thing I don't like is the step back from realism with the rev limiter. Real cars don't limit revs, its up to the driver to control that. You took away throttle blip etc that's fair enough, it adds realism, but to then take away driver control of his revs, I think is a step backward. I suspect the real formula bmw is limited revs since it's a training formula class. I know you are mad on realism, and I love realism, and stepping away from realistic rev control is a bad idea.

You'll like realistic engine damage even more then. Hopefully some day the rev limiter can be an option and lifted to the result of lots of complaints about engines going bang when I try and rev it too hard. If you're routinely hitting the rev limiter your setup or driving style is very wrong.

Quote from Dark Elite :

Plenty of older, cheaper cars don't have limiters, with an early Nineties Ford Fiesta coming to mind. Certainly all of the cars in LFS now should have rev limiters, though, and all of them... With the possible exception of the UF1... should be able to reach them.

I Agree with you on everything exept for the Uf1 thing. The original Daihatsu Trevis has a rev limiter. I do not own one but i have driven one. Its easy to go wrong on this, the UF1 looks so old but its actually a pretty new car.

Quote from abo saad :

where is my setup i dont ! haveany setup what happen tell me plz

-------------

hello Abo Saad,
i think this is what u are searching for