So anyone check out my replay to see if it's a bug or not?

Quote from TypeRCivic :

So anyone check out my replay to see if it's a bug or not?

I don't consider it a bug really, though it's not quite how it happens in real life. In LFS the starter motor gives the engine a kick up to a speed it could continue, but it immediately stalls as you are in gear, so you are just getting small nudges forward. In real life you could hold the starter motor on for a while and chug forwards on the starter motor. But LFS starter can't be held on so... not really a problem.

Quote from AJS :

Yup

First thing i tried with the new patch was "Shift-Lock" with the XRG.

3rd gear 6000 RPM press the clutch shift to 2nd and then just kick the clutch without to heel and toe at all.

Nada Zippo niente. The rear wheels didnt lock up at all.
.

I think that’s more due to clutch slipping instead of getting instant grip with the flywheel.

Engines seem to have enough inertia, judging on revs increase and slowdown rate while in natural.

I do notice that when you shut your engine off manually, it takes a long time before it stops. I mean, from idle to zero RPM takes a few seconds, shouldn't it just stop directly ?

Yes, the engine simulation and the general low-rev behaviour seem to be kinda weird, shutting off and stalling is definitely not 100% authentic to real life.

That said, it does its job well enough for racing purposes, which was the main goal of these additions. I suspect this behaviour will be improved once Scawen gets to rewriting the engine simulation (which he has already hinted at ).

Um, I don't know if this is the correct thread (or if it's been said before), but has anyone tried to upshift in the MRT at the redline? I use full manual clutch, but when upshifting in the MRT, it will change up when close to the redline. Yet it won't do it elsewhere until the throttle has been lifted...

:doh:

Motorbike gearbox rings a bell?

Quote from dougie-lampkin :

Um, I don't know if this is the correct thread (or if it's been said before), but has anyone tried to upshift in the MRT at the redline? I use full manual clutch, but when upshifting in the MRT, it will change up when close to the redline. Yet it won't do it elsewhere until the throttle has been lifted...

Probably because the MRT "runs out of steam" near the redline, so there isn't really any torque applying to the gearbox

Quote from bbman :

:doh:

Motorbike gearbox rings a bell?

I have a motorbike, 6 speed manual, and it will upshift clutchless (with or without throttle lift) anywhere except near the redline. So yes, motorbike gearboxes do ring a bell

Quote from herki :

Probably because the MRT "runs out of steam" near the redline, so there isn't really any torque applying to the gearbox

Is that sorta like when you come up to the pit limiter and the throttle "lifts"?

No, it's the the output of the engine isn't able to load the dogs very much. The throttle can still be hard open...

Quote from tristancliffe :

No, it's the the output of the engine isn't able to load the dogs very much. The throttle can still be hard open...

ah so it isn't really a physics bug...ok

I use a MOMO wheel so only brake and throttle for me. Is this right?....

When I change up a gear I have discovered that if for example I am in 3rd, have full throttle, and I click down the shift up paddle and keep it down. When I lift of the throttle when I am at the right RPM the gear will change up as long as I keep the shift up button down. Is this what happens with the real car? I am not sure if this is a bug or not?

Quote from Intrepid :

I use a MOMO wheel so only brake and throttle for me. Is this right?....

When I change up a gear I have discovered that if for example I am in 3rd, have full throttle, and I click down the shift up paddle and keep it down. When I lift of the throttle when I am at the right RPM the gear will change up as long as I keep the shift up button down. Is this what happens with the real car? I am not sure if this is a bug or not?

Yes, this works with upshifting too, even with full manual on. A bike gearbox will shift clutchless, as long as you ease off the throttle. Hold the paddle/button down, and let throttle off and back on, and the gear changes

Although, I just took my bike for a spin, and it does change gear regardless of throttle... But it will not upshift close to redline without the clutch...

i dont know if any one else has noticed but how are you supposed to do rallyX with clutch damage? i did 3 laps at bl rallyx rev and the clutch was in the red, and thats taking it mildly easy not hotlapping

Use the latest patch, and the clutch is fine in RallyX. If not, then I suggest you work on your gear change technique.

its not my gear changing, i tryed it on autogear change too, it just burns the clutch easy on rallyx because rpms is up and down alot

Have you tried lifting whilst in the air to cushion things? The testing earlier today showed that the strengthened clutches help a lot.

But ultimately, it comes down to your driving, as it'll be the same for everyone.

Another auto-clutch thing...(i hope it was not mentioned before...):

If you take the LX6 for example, and shift up very early, so that you drive in 6th gear @ 3000rpm the auto-clutch will half disengage at full throttle. My question is now - why? I don't see a reason for this behavior, because the engine is far from idle speed and it won't drop...

With manual clutch that does not happen, of course...

Auto clutch don't is a progressive cluth, it only has 2 settings-0% push or 100%. But it has some "smooth" (i don't know how to say) for make it more effective, but it can't push a 60% for going sliding for few meters.

I think this would be possible for Z version, I drive on manual clutch, but i think this is an issue with few importance, nobody drive on 6th gear while racing

Quote from Whiskey :

Auto clutch don't is a progressive cluth, it only has 2 settings-0% push or 100%. But it has some "smooth" (i don't know how to say) for make it more effective, but it can't push a 60% for going sliding for few meters.

I think this would be possible for Z version, I drive on manual clutch, but i think this is an issue with few importance, nobody drive on 6th gear while racing

Ok, i considered that the clutch is progressive. And of course nobody race on 6th gear at 3000rpm and therefore the priority is rather small. But that doesn't make it more realistic

Yes, it is not realistic at all, but auto clutch works perfect in gear changes, it only fail if you do strange things. Of course, this need to be solved before S2 final, but now is not a thing to improve -this is my opinion

This behaviour of autoclutch is what burns clutches of many when they spin, so instead of stalling it slips clutch. I think it is good this way, so people learn that it is not ok to keep car on big gear and floored

Quote from JTbo :

This behaviour of autoclutch is what burns clutches of many when they spin, so instead of stalling it slips clutch.

So it might be the reason why the clutch is heating so easily with the FZR + auto clutch ?
Even without spinning it's hard to keep it cold after ten laps. And if someone hits you in the back it's instantly getting red.

The clutch was a bit too strong IMO in patch X35 but now I find it a bit weak. Am I the only one ?
I haven't seen many reports here about the FZR

patch X36, if you are upside down, accelerate in 1st gear, put it in neutral, stop the engine.

it goes from 74km/h to 0.
if you start it, it goes back to 74..

replay says everything.