I'm a n00b at this but dont you want the power to drag the car in line? I can't see a point in messing with the diff, only messing with camber so that the tires give you max grip (ie flat with the road) on the exit.
I know what you mean, i had the same thing and all i can say is "deal with it" - once you learn how to you'll be bloody quick.
That's an effect of the high differential locking, high front ARB, insane amount of grip and short wheelbase. Under throttle, all this together creates a high rotational force towards where the front wheels point, basically swinging the rear around, thus power oversteer.
@squidhead: so according to your definition of poweroversteer it can't happen with an FWD...
powerUNDERsteer happens a lot with average FWD though, and if it doesn't but - on the contrary - it oversteers on power, it must be powerOVERsteer, right?
otherwise it would be called power-from-behind-oversteer... which sounds kind of gay. (no offense to that community, just a joke)
It depends on the set since thete are many ways you can eliminate the effect you described and in order to choose one of them you have to know most of the setup's values.
There is no way to change track, not even by camber changes since ufr has a trailing arm at the back so i assume you incleased the rear antiroll bar.
I think the setup is already fast... considering that you have 80hp at the baby UFR class.
If you are still slow it is just your driving.
in the german version it is called "spur", which is "track" in english, which again is missleading. actually I increased the "toe in" (got that from the english version) at the rear.
I think a stiffer ARB in the back would increase oversteer...
anyways. I tweaked some more: stiffened both ARBs and lowered the car although the "drop" turns slightly red. now I did a high 1:34 on SO town course despite some driving mistakes here and there... but maybe it's more due to the many test-laps than to the setup-changes.
I'm always kind of quickish with every combo, but I rarely get fast.
Actually, no... The low ARB at the rear causes the stiff front to lift the inside wheel, thus getting the car to turn better off power and easing the power oversteer a bit (as it kind of acts like a diff)...
Indeed softer rear antiroll bar helps an fwd car with locked diff to turn in easier but also increasers the oversteer effect that the locked diff creates under power.
Using the locked diff, both wheels rotate at the same speed so imagine if we could keep the load equal at both wheels, the car would not turn at all… but that’s just impossible so the more weight transfer you have from the inside to the outside wheel, the more oversteer under power you have. (Taking in count LFS tires… a real tire doesn’t give you that high grip as the load increases)
Grater weight transfer, when turning, appears at the harder end of the car.
As for the antiroll bars don’t go at a lot higher stifress rate than the springs… that doesn’t help especially on bumpy surfaces and generally the weight transfer from side to side stops being linear… it moves rather suddenly.
Also don’t adjust the height only by what you see using drop in the garage… this is not the maximum force than the suspension will get while driving. Do a lap, save the replay and see where the car bottoms out using the “force” view (F)
[edit]
As for the laptime, it is your driving that you have to improve now, the setup is already nice.
I gave it a go… just to see some slow laptimes with no experience at that combo, but with some XFG experience.
In 8 laps I dropped to 1.34 flat with the setup you attached here.
You can see the beginning of my learning curve there… I dropped 3 sec in 8laps and I think I can easily drop another sec after 30 laps or so but I can’t be bothered to use my wheel now because I don’t have much time to spare for the following 3 weeks.
(no offense to that community, just a joke)
