I'm thinking about doing my own step-by-step guide in March. I won't really be taking a scientific approach, though (e.g. car X needs a suspension frequency of Y in front and Z in back for track A). It will be purely based upon my experience in LFS and what feels right to me in this little simulated world. That said, it should still be fairly easy to follow and will have some notes regarding different approaches required for different tracks and cars.
That's probably true in a straight line scenario, but also consider that the dampers control lateral transfer as well, and in the corner exit situation the car is loaded laterally. Things become more complicated, because we don't generally want more lateral load transfer if we can help it, and a softer outer rear damper in bump will give you more. More load transfer (softer in bump) will decrease rear end grip, causing oversteer.
Keep it simple, but not too simple. And I'm probably wrong anyway!
Keep it simple, but not too simple. And I'm probably wrong anyway!
I suppose this could be taken as a small taste of my upcoming guide. 
In LFS, my experience has been that the compression dampers can be treated similarly to springs for particular parts of the corner where the change in load is high, meaning stiffer front = more understeer, stiffer rear = more oversteer. Up to a certain point, that is. Things get a little goofy at very low values. High curbs like those at FE also throw a wrench into the works. I've found lower front compression damping helps with going over them.
I generally keep rebound around critical, sometimes a little lower in the rear and a little higher in the front. I suspect my observations regarding bump compliance over FE's curbs are related to this tendency in my setups, as the combination of less bump and more rebound damping at the front gives the rear wheels more time to recover, thereby maintaining stability on exit.
In LFS, my experience has been that the compression dampers can be treated similarly to springs for particular parts of the corner where the change in load is high, meaning stiffer front = more understeer, stiffer rear = more oversteer. Up to a certain point, that is. Things get a little goofy at very low values. High curbs like those at FE also throw a wrench into the works. I've found lower front compression damping helps with going over them.
I generally keep rebound around critical, sometimes a little lower in the rear and a little higher in the front. I suspect my observations regarding bump compliance over FE's curbs are related to this tendency in my setups, as the combination of less bump and more rebound damping at the front gives the rear wheels more time to recover, thereby maintaining stability on exit.
I look forward to reading it Forbin.
+1
I am just getting to a stage where I feel I would like to customise the suspension and steering part of the setup for myself, but so far all my experiments are not that successfull Would love to have some guidance on that
I am just getting to a stage where I feel I would like to customise the suspension and steering part of the setup for myself, but so far all my experiments are not that successfull
Would love to have some guidance on thatThis is answer makes sense and gives me another view on suspension.
Have been only thinking in just front and rear until now.
But I still would like to know if that is the true reason for the general advice to stiffen the rear compression damping in order to achieve more rear grip on exit under throttle. As tristancliffe points out he may be wrong though he still opens a whole new realm for me.
The explanation I've seen previously on this was that a slower bump setting would allow the weight( I guess?) to transfer faster and load the tires faster, because it would not be "absorbed" by the suspension, leading to more grip under acceleration.
Could anyone, please, clarify this?
Hey Bob, are you still updating this as small vehicle changes are made (roll centres etc, and new suspension models - scirocco, multilink is it?)
Or does it not require updates due to it being a broad guide to making your own setups?
Or does it not require updates due to it being a broad guide to making your own setups?
I did start a re-write of this guide, which would just generally make it better all round. Essentially though, changes to the vehicles in LFS should not require changes to the guide. This is just one of many projects I started while at Uni, and now I have very little time to keep up-to-date with a full-time job. :|
No problems, i know what it's like when you get home from work and all you want to do is crash out for a bit
I'll have a read thru the old P2 guide anyway, i'm interested in making my own setups, as i'm finding some of the downloaded setups don't suit my driving style (lol rough as guts) And i'd like to know how to set them up properly. Cheers for the guide!
now that is a good source...kinda hard 2 understand, but thats my fault 
Hello, Bob.
This is really awesome guide!!
May I translate this guide and publish on my web site?
Japanese drivers need good setup guide to get more WR
This is really awesome guide!!
May I translate this guide and publish on my web site?
Japanese drivers need good setup guide to get more WR
This deserves to be a sticky thread i think. 
http://en.lfsmanual.net/wiki/Advanced_Setup_Guide
I read and took time to understand every line in this guide. It helped a lot.
This guide doesn't only help a LFS player adjust he's setup, it helps any man understand a lot about race-car tuning. I advice all the new-comers to read this.
And yeah, it should be a sticky.
I read and took time to understand every line in this guide. It helped a lot.
This guide doesn't only help a LFS player adjust he's setup, it helps any man understand a lot about race-car tuning. I advice all the new-comers to read this.
And yeah, it should be a sticky.
How does "Added voluntary mass" affect the feel on the car ?
i effects the car quite a lot, what car you referring to?
it makes the car slower as you have to accelerate brake and turn the extra weight.
moving the weight balance forward will make the car more stable and use its front tyres a bit more, and visa versa.
your setup will need to be adjusted abit, can't be very specific sorry just adjust abit so it feels good
it makes the car slower as you have to accelerate brake and turn the extra weight.
moving the weight balance forward will make the car more stable and use its front tyres a bit more, and visa versa.
your setup will need to be adjusted abit, can't be very specific sorry just adjust abit so it feels good
Can you tell the difference between an empty and full tank of fuel in LFS? It should be reasonably similar to that. You wont be able to brake as late, take turns as fast or accelerate as quickly (this one might be the least obvious).
Wow, that was a stupid question. I didn't want to ask that. Sorry for the ... typo ... I think it was a typo ... a big one.
What I really wanted to ask is: "How does weight balance affect the feel on the car?"
What I really wanted to ask is: "How does weight balance affect the feel on the car?"
Front-heavy cars tend to understeer and rear-heavy cars to oversteer.
This explains it better.
This explains it better.
Yet at the same time rear heavy cars can have big understeering problems especially out of corners, since the front tyres generate relatively much less grip due to less vertical load. Generally I find cars with a front-ish weight bias more pleasant and predictable to drive than rear heavy cars.
THX A LOT MATE!!! It really helped me))
No problem, I just hope that is still accurate. I haven't played LFS in quite a while.
1
2
Advanced Setup Guide
(46 posts, started )
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG