i was on ctra bump and jump today, short and twisty circuit, and the rb4 seemed to struggle to make it 4 laps, 2/3 cars had the same problem.

Im not moaning in any way about the new clutch system, its great, missing gears and things, but just though the rb4 could perhards have a better one

Quote from kirmy :

i was on ctra bump and jump today, short and twisty circuit, and the rb4 seemed to struggle to make it 4 laps, 2/3 cars had the same problem.

Im not moaning in any way about the new clutch system, its great, missing gears and things, but just though the rb4 could perhards have a better one

Please post a replay of the problem. Until then we have to assume it was your driving (and the same for the other couple of people), because 99.9999999% of LFSers don't have clutch problems.

If a problem exists with the clutch itself, then a replay would prove it beyond reasonable doubt.

Without seeing any replays I'm 99% sure it is an issue with long 1st gear. On tight corners the clutch always comes in and if you floor it it will ruin the clutch. Try shorter 1st gear.

sorry tristan, i cant do that, you can take it to be my driving if you like, but it wasnt only me, many other drivers had the same problem, and i look after my clutch lift:changeower

The simple fact remains that nobody who has complained about clutch heat has produced a replay to demonstrate it wasn't them. There are various replays of people doing all sorts of things in all sorts of cars without melting it. Therefore one has to assume, without evidence to the contrary, that it was caused by their driving.

Until someone (and that someone could be you) can demonstrate a flaw in the model then nothing will be changed.

Quote from tristancliffe :

The simple fact remains that nobody who has complained about clutch heat has produced a replay to demonstrate it wasn't them. There are various replays of people doing all sorts of things in all sorts of cars without melting it. Therefore one has to assume, without evidence to the contrary, that it was caused by their driving.

Until someone (and that someone could be you) can demonstrate a flaw in the model then nothing will be changed.

fair enough than, guess ill have to be easier on the shifts

When I first tried RB4, because it's a very torquey engine, i burned my clutch after doing a couple J-turns (reverse -> 180 -> forward).

You need a shorter 1st gear

Quote from kirmy :

fair enough than, guess ill have to be easier on the shifts

Easier on shifts. Slip clutch less and if you use auto clutch map a clutch button because there will be time you NEED to put the clutch in to protect it. If you spin out etc.

As Trist has said though... Every thread that where somebody has raised a clutch has always been the same. NOBODY is EVER willing to post a replay to show the problem and ALL say "believe me, I am not the cause of the problem there is a problem but I will not show you what I believe it is. Just truct me"

I drift the rb4 almost exclusively and just remember that the clutch has a much heavier drivetrain to control and has more inertia than an xrt

I was just driving the rb4 at blackwood rally and was surprised at how durable the clutch was :S

Adapt your driving, or your setup, or both. You can't adapt the clutch. Then again, you knew that, didn't you...

After racing the RB4 over longer races in the stock cup I found it's very easy to get the up shift wrong, if it's a little off you hear the engine note rise as the clutch slips a little (that rrrrrrRRRRR sound) if you get it right there is just the solid, no slip, sound as you power on (just the RRRRRRRR). Don't really know how to explain it right, sorry And obviously blip on the downshift but that’s much easier.

On shorter tracks with lots of gear changes and with everything going on, changing up is hard to get right every time, that’s where you need to really lift, engage the gear then power. Simple I know but you just have to do it slower to make sure you get it right.

The way I found best is to actually click the gear up button/paddle on my DFP, then lift off the power and back on again. I think it works better.

Explain to me, since I know practically nothing about cars, how the clutch burning is supposed to be like... is it because with too many gear changes the witchcraft starts to leak out of the engine?

Quote from hyntty :

Explain to me, since I know practically nothing about cars, how the clutch burning is supposed to be like... is it because with too many gear changes the witchcraft starts to leak out of the engine?

A clutch has a number of plates that are forced together by springs. In normal operation the friction between then is enough that they do not slip.

When you operate the clutch pedal you pull them apart. This allows you to change the force holding them together and hence hence the level of friction between them and hence "slip" the clutch. Clutch pedal in means the plates are apart.

Now put your palms together and rub them together, they get warmer. Too much heat on the plates glazzes the surface and reduces the friction between the plates so they slip. They also give a great smell as the surface burns which is impossible to mistake once you have smelt it for the first time

Road clutches are designed to be slipped more than a race clutch, a race clutch is designed to grip/bite more but this makes them more prone to heat when they do slip.

HTH

Erm, did any of you READ the first post?

This on Bump 'n Jump with tight autoX layouts that NEED the handbrake - chances are that as he pulls the handbrake the wheels lock (putting stress on the clutch as the engine still has enertia), and probably punches the throttle as he releases the handbrake.

I think.

I never have clutch temp issues on track, but on CTRA Bump 'n Jump, especially in the RB4 (thanks to the 4WD) it's very easy to do. I would post a replay if i wasn't so tired but just have a go "dicking about" with the handbrake and you'll see what I mean.

Happends to me same thing there, but you just gotta release throttle fully till next gear is in and then hit throttle, gently way.

Quote from Jakg :

Erm, did any of you READ the first post?

This on Bump 'n Jump with tight autoX layouts that NEED the handbrake - chances are that as he pulls the handbrake the wheels lock (putting stress on the clutch as the engine still has enertia), and probably punches the throttle as he releases the handbrake.

I think.

I never have clutch temp issues on track, but on CTRA Bump 'n Jump, especially in the RB4 (thanks to the 4WD) it's very easy to do. I would post a replay if i wasn't so tired but just have a go "dicking about" with the handbrake and you'll see what I mean.

Yes but bump and jump has nothing at all to do with it. The same rules apply to clutch heat no matter the server you are on....

Clutch abuse = Clutch heat.

You would get the same effects using normal brakes if you lock up the wheels while trying to put power through them. Why should it be ANY different on any server.

On bump and jump I find the bigger problem is suspension damage.

Like any race it's a matter of making the car setup suit the track/task. For bump and jump you need to lower the gearing, softer suspension etc.

If you're having clutch issues that badly on the Bump n' Jump server just turn autoclutch off, if you haven't got a clutch pedal (although by the sounds of it a lot of G25 owners still choose to drive with auto clutch) just set a button clutch (I doubt it'll cause controversy on a fun server) that way you can understand exactly what your clutch is doing and not sit there mindlessly slipping the thing (although you've got to be pretty stupid to do that in the first place).