like if you get your RPMs up in a real car it takes of fine in LFS it stalls or barely moves. can someone make exactly like a real car, top speed, RPMs gears and all. setup? or if you have tips let me know. (trying to learn to drive stick, wanting to get better)

PS: Don't attempt to use these at a race.
PPS: No idea how realistic they are overall, but the gearing should be comparable to a real road car.

See sig.

Maybe it's just me, but I find that the cars in LFS stall way too easily, like the engine is too "heavy" or bogged down.

The XFG for example (as a normal road car), unless you use massive first gear ratios with a top speed of 15mph, just can't take off without excessive (1/4 to 1/2) throttle

Quote from dougie-lampkin :

Maybe it's just me, but I find that the cars in LFS stall way too easily, like the engine is too "heavy" or bogged down.

The XFG for example (as a normal road car), unless you use massive first gear ratios with a top speed of 15mph, just can't take off without excessive (1/4 to 1/2) throttle

Are you using a button clutch or a G25 pedal?

I can usually take off very easy(low rpm) If I use a pedal clutch but I have a DFP so I have no brakes

I'm using G25, full manual...Maybe it's just me though, I should probably practise

No it isn't you. Compared to driving a real car, the biting point in LFS is EPIC FAIL

Quote from JO53PHS :

No it isn't you. Compared to driving a real car, the biting point in LFS is EPIC FAIL

Joe would know...

Never had a problem. Just got to take into account you can't feel the biting point, as you're not in the car, and you don't have a hydraulic clutch mechanism either. Perfectly possible to pull away time after time using 'road revs', and normalish clutch movement.

Quote from J@tko :

Joe would know...

Your point being..

Quote from tristancliffe :

Never had a problem. Just got to take into account you can't feel the biting point, as you're not in the car, and you don't have a hydraulic clutch mechanism either. Perfectly possible to pull away time after time using 'road revs', and normalish clutch movement.

It seems that once you get to the biting point and then 'go a little further', in LFS, the revs drop too much and the car stalls quite easily. I find that I have to use more revs in LFS

Yes, I find I'm using way more throttle than IRL. As an experiment, I got both my Mum and Dad (who are both driving over 20 years each) to have a go on LFS with the G25, both stalled several times in a row trying to take off in a XFG with slightly modified gear ratios. Eventually, they both just gave it a lot more throttle, almost 50%, and were off...

(And once they did get going, they were crap anyway :shrug

Quote from dougie-lampkin :

Maybe it's just me, but I find that the cars in LFS stall way too easily, like the engine is too "heavy" or bogged down.

The XFG for example (as a normal road car), unless you use massive first gear ratios with a top speed of 15mph, just can't take off without excessive (1/4 to 1/2) throttle

thats exactly why im trying to find a real car setup

but... how hard is it to search @google for car spec's and just type in the gearing in lfs? i mean, the gearing is the same but maybe the hp is a little off :P for ex: i drive the FXO with REAL GEARING from an Volvo 850 T5.. works, a little low topspeed, but just needs a little tweaking of the 5th gear..

hope u get it right

Is there any easy way to adjust the biting point in LFS? Because In a real car it's like 1/2 way or something but in LFS it's like 99/100ths of the way

Actually, I find the biting point in LFS to be OK. For whatever reason, the clutch bar doesn't move until I'm at about 3/4 travel (let it 1/4 out), but it's using the full range of the pedal in the settings menu

If you want to adjust it (and you're using a axis clutch), just recalibrate, and push the pedal in to where you'd like it to bite. Then lock the axis

Although every car is different. Our old MG is literally only using the top 10th of travel for the clutch, the clutch was only replaced once since '78 But some new cars will bite 1/10 of the way out

@Dougie: I think this must've been changed in the test patches somewhere. Originally I calibrated the clutch pedal to have a bite point at about 3/4 pedal travel, but lately I noticed that it only began biting at 1/2 travel. I then removed my manual recalibration and since then the bite point is at 2/3-3/4 travel all by its own.

Can't say that taking off is extremely unrealistic in LFS though, at least with a realistic gearing such as in the set I posted (1st gear tops at 30mph). The problem is that in a real car you can immediately feel (in your butt) when the clutch starts biting, so you instinctively hold your foot at that point. In LFS however, the little feedback there is is rather delayed too, so it's easy to do what many new real life drivers do - stall the car in an embarrassing way. Though the LFS clutch does seem brand new with a very sharp biting point, at least compared to the last car that I've driven (which however had well over 300.000 km, so that clutch was anything but new :tilt.

There is a possibility to adjust your Clutch as in real car.
First of all: There is a different travel in road cars and Sport cars.
If you even tryed to take off on low rpm with Ceramic Clutch - it's pretty same as in LFS.[Usually tuned strong cars have Ceramic].

Well,you have to download the DX Tweak, that can calibrate your Pedals and steering as you want. With some interesting settings in Clutch pedal - you can make it half stroke Travel. So you can take off pretty same, as in real car.
Just play with the Graph of calibrating and you can make interesting results.

Let me know if you still need help with a numbers

I thought the same thing. However I tried something different...I enabled LFS to show the pedals on the bottom right, and I enabled auto-clutch.

With racing setups, the car with auto-clutch seemed to set off perfect with just a light press on the throttle, and observing the pedal bars, LFS seemed to be using the clutch as you would in a real car. However when I tried to do it manually, it took some real precise movements, and it did stall and shake alot.

I am wondering myself if it has something to do with the clutch and throttle being on the same level on my G25, whereas the throttle is set further back than the clutch in real life.

I am telling you. You can adjust the Clutch linearity with programm called DX Tweak. So you can it non-linear, like it starts first half with soft and smooth clutch characteristic. You can do whatever you want, so you can take off almost without the throttle without stalling.
No LFS adjustments needed at all.