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The Clutch Burning
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(38 posts, started )
The Clutch Burning
Hi,
Im using a G25 wheel, and when playing lfs for about 20mins around the track... the gears seem to slip.. how do i stop this.... ??
really annoying me.. only happens in the recent versions which i upgraded.
Don't keep pressing the throttle while changing gears.
Learn how to properly use a clutch? Post a replay so people can have a look at what you're doing wrong.
Quote from AndroidXP :Don't keep pressing the throttle while changing gears.

I can run plenty long in 10 lap (ran 15 lap race at BL1/XFG the other night) while still flatshifting without heating up the clutch.

djhertz, yup, post a replay. I've used both a clutch pedal and autoclutch while flatshifting all but the sequentials (forced to lift to shift) up to 15 lap races (half hour) with no difference in clutch heat on the display.
clutch burning differs from car to car.

in xfg and xrg you could flatshift all day, whilst in most other cars your clutch temperature will be insanely high after just 3 laps of flatshifting.
Quote from mrodgers :...all but the sequentials (forced to lift to shift)

The only sequential I need to lift to shift up for is the FBM, the GTRs and the FO8/FOX all have auto-cut. Unless you were referring to the Auto-cut system meaning it's not technically a 'flat shit.'
Quote from MAGGOT :The only sequential I need to lift to shift up for is the FBM, the GTRs and the FO8/FOX all have auto-cut. Unless you were referring to the Auto-cut system meaning it's not technically a 'flat shit.'

Learn how to quote......

No, I was generalizing sequentials. I have driven the FBM only and forgot that the other's had auto-cut. I don't drive the XRR/FXR and haven't been in the other open wheelers since the clutch was reworked. But yes, in those you still are not flatshifting.

I can still flatshift the FZR, FZ50, GTT, GT, and GTi without generating heat. I think I spent 2 laps at one of the Aston configs in the UF1 trying to heat the clutch with the clutch pedal. I was deliberately slipping the clutch a lot and it lasted about 2 laps. Then I ran some laps with flatshifting and normal clutching and had no heat.

To the original post, did you spin at all? Bog down during the race start? Pit and bog down leaving the pit box? All these can lead to the start of the clutch heating up and once it is started, it makes it a lot easier to burn out too much later on in a run.
Quote from Batterypark :And spell.

LMAO! I sat here and looked at "technically" wondering what was wrong with it, then noticed his fecal problem

That's gotta hurt when it comes out flat.......
Follow these instructions and you will never get a hot clutch again!!! :D
It is simple... (I'm 15 years old and I have known this ever since I was 12 :razz

I guess it takes a while for some people (no offence )

Follow these instructions and you will never get a hot clutch again

Manual Shifter:
1. Clutch in
2. Throttle off
3. Change gear
4. Clutch out
5. Throttle on

or...

1. Throttle off
2. Clutch in
3. Change gear
4. Clutch out
5. Throttle on

It depends how fast the rpm drops really...
Once you get the hang of it it is easy

Sequential:
1. Throttle off
2. Gear up
3. Throttle on

or...
You could leave the throttle on and let your clutch heat up a bit

Enjoy being able to finnish a race with all of the clutch that you joined the race/cruise with
Quote from mrodgers :LMAO! I sat here and looked at "technically" wondering what was wrong with it, then noticed his fecal problem

That's gotta hurt when it comes out flat.......

LOL, so did I xD
Quote from mrodgers :LMAO! I sat here and looked at "technically" wondering what was wrong with it, then noticed his fecal problem

That's gotta hurt when it comes out flat.......

There was an incident... The chinese really, really hate to lose at table tennis. Lesson learned.
looks like i've made quite a discussion about this... i thought maybe there was something just to disable so it doesnt burn out.. its rather annoying... i'm changing like i do in my car... and my clutch doesnt burn !
lol
kinda not that realistic.
version older than this was better.
Please post a replay then.
If you are having clutch heat problems, you are doing something wrong. Thousands of us have gotten on just fine. I have never, ever, had any clutch heating problems, ever, in LFS, and I use manual clutch with a clutch pedal. Obviously it is something you're doing. Post a replay so we can see, and someone can help you.
Quote from djhertz :looks like i've made quite a discussion about this... i thought maybe there was something just to disable so it doesnt burn out.. its rather annoying... i'm changing like i do in my car... and my clutch doesnt burn !
lol
kinda not that realistic.
version older than this was better.

that is bad for your car then... you are probley slowly wrecking the clutch
#17 - Woz
Quote from djhertz :looks like i've made quite a discussion about this... i thought maybe there was something just to disable so it doesnt burn out.. its rather annoying... i'm changing like i do in my car... and my clutch doesnt burn !
lol
kinda not that realistic.
version older than this was better.

Post a replay. Whenever ANYONE says its wrong they are NEVER willing to post a replay to show what they believe is the issue.

As others have said, only a few complain and they are ALWAYS at fault.

BTW: If you have not tweaked you clutch pedal in DXTweak your clutch on the G25 does not operate ANYTHING like yours real cars pedal. By default with G25 the clutch is on ever fully in when pressed 100% down and fully out when lifted 100%. Your real car probably has about 20-30% of travel that actually does anything.
Quote from Woz :Post a replay. Whenever ANYONE says its wrong they are NEVER willing to post a replay to show what they believe is the issue.

As others have said, only a few complain and they are ALWAYS at fault.

BTW: If you have not tweaked you clutch pedal in DXTweak your clutch on the G25 does not operate ANYTHING like yours real cars pedal. By default with G25 the clutch is on ever fully in when pressed 100% down and fully out when lifted 100%. Your real car probably has about 20-30% of travel that actually does anything.

Totally agree

Post a replay djhertz
I have the same problem as the person who opened the post...
I'm running with 3 pedals and H shifter..

Driving in SO5 (SO town, with UFR)..

I had overheat the clutch in less than 5 lapsss.

I dont understand why i have the clutch overheat beacuse i lift off in every change..

In reduction i dont use toe/shoe, beacuse i play with a barefoot i dont wanna to damage the pedals (with shoes)()

P.D: My wheel is the G25, with normal settings. (only shortened the end off the clutch pedal in LFS config, pushing middle is like pushing full..)..

Here is a replay of 5 laps with overheat, not really good times, is a race config..(but i were not looking on lap times, i were looking for the clutch overheat)....

I need help, this is horrible for me, i could not make the next race in the league where i were driving...(I think that scawen has to put an option to engage or desengage the over heat on clutch)
The other option is changing to paddle gears and autoclutch (i have less overheating but so few less)

Sometimes when i think in that car UFR, and clutch i wanna to throw the game for the window......"Its frustrating, and still i dont know why i overheat the clucth so easily..."...
Attached files
clutch overheat.mpr - 89.2 KB - 350 views
Can you try posting a SPR (single player replay) instead? MPR, even if made on a local server, aren't very accurate regarding pedal position.

E: Just watched, in several places it looks like you completely flatshift, even though I guess that's just due to the limited packet rate of a MPR.
Throttle...
Quote from clockterra :I have the same problem as the person who opened the post...
I'm running with 3 pedals and H shifter..

Driving in SO5 (SO town, with UFR)..

I had overheat the clutch in less than 5 lapsss.

I dont understand why i have the clutch overheat beacuse i lift off in every change..

In reduction i dont use toe/shoe, beacuse i play with a barefoot i dont wanna to damage the pedals (with shoes)()

P.D: My wheel is the G25, with normal settings. (only shortened the end off the clutch pedal in LFS config, pushing middle is like pushing full..)..

Here is a replay of 5 laps with overheat, not really good times, is a race config..(but i were not looking on lap times, i were looking for the clutch overheat)....

I need help, this is horrible for me, i could not make the next race in the league where i were driving...(I think that scawen has to put an option to engage or desengage the over heat on clutch)
The other option is changing to paddle gears and autoclutch (i have less overheating but so few less)

Sometimes when i think in that car UFR, and clutch i wanna to throw the game for the window......"Its frustrating, and still i dont know why i overheat the clucth so easily..."...

I watched the replay and I saw quite a number of times that you didn't take your foot fully off the accelerator when you have the clutch in and you are changing gear...

Follow these exactly and you won't have a problem...
1. Throttle off
2. Clutch in
3. Change gear
4. Clutch out
5. Throttle on

Make sure you lift fully off the throttle when you change gear

I have some images if you need proof
Quote from AndroidXP :Can you try posting a SPR (single player replay) instead? MPR, even if made on a local server, aren't very accurate regarding pedal position.

E: Just watched, in several places it looks like you completely flatshift, even though I guess that's just due to the limited packet rate of a MPR.

no... that was definatly flat shifting
clockterra
i see no throttle blip on down shifts
that's the problem
try to add some throttle before you let cluch pedal off
i mean "heel n toe"
to balance rpm between engine and gearbox
Quote from The Stig PL :clockterra
i see no throttle blip on down shifts
that's the problem
try to add some throttle before you let cluch pedal off
i mean "heel n toe"
to balance rpm between engine and gearbox

that too
Guys, you're watching a MPR, which has a packetrate of 4-6 packets per second. Lifting off and the amount of lift-off can be completely missed in a MPR, even if the driver did everything right. The point The Stig PL makes is a good one, though.
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The Clutch Burning
(38 posts, started )
FGED GREDG RDFGDR GSFDG