I think that is not necessary to lift off all throttle on gear change, only need a drop of rpm (like in real cars)..but i liff off all my foot when i change..

For that i seen maybe the problem is like you are saying in reduction
The Stig PL...(After de downhill in the big brake reduction is when overheat more the clutch).

I could not use heel and toe, because i play barefoot and without shoes is so hard to make it, i will damage my foot..

Maybe i will have to change and use autoclutch, with only two pedals brake and gas (not so real but i could add some throttle on reductions).

I will make a SPR in few moments..

Quote from clockterra :

I think that is not necessary to lift off all throttle on gear change, only need a drop of rpm (like in real cars)..but i liff off all my foot when i change..

For that i seen maybe the problem is like you are saying in reduction
The Stig PL...(After de downhill in the big brake reduction is when overheat more the clutch).

I could not use heel and toe, because i play barefoot and without shoes is so hard to make it, i will damage my foot..

Maybe i will have to change and use autoclutch, with only two pedals brake and gas (not so real but i could add some throttle on reductions).

I will make a SPR in few moments..

Get some Plimsolls, thats what I drive in and they're great and its just as easy as in socks - you have the same control.

@clockterra - is this only an issue in SO? I seem to recall the UF's clutch does not like the bumps. It could be an issue with the bumps on the circuit. If it's happening on other circuits, then it is your driving/shifting technique.

Quote from mcintyrej :

Get some Plimsolls, thats what I drive in and they're great and its just as easy as in socks - you have the same control.

I use these for racing... and I also conveniently wear them 24/7 inside the house

Quote from Jertje :

I use these for racing... and I also conveniently wear them 24/7 inside the house

Wow they look nice actually, do they have a hard bottom? Is it a think one?

it must be your shifting...
watch my spr replay... same car, same track and at the end of five laps my clutch is just warm... but fine

also watch the mpr for a comparison...

You will find that my shifting was reasonably "ok"... and I didn't need to blip to keep my clutch in the "ok" zone

Point now proven

the quality diference does show tho...

I live in Mallorca, and in summer is so hot, the only option in summer is barefoot....that a big probemmmmm....jejeje

Nice plimsols..

Jamesisinthehouse12 I had seen you replay you dont overheat the clutch than i but your clutch is overheat too, think in a race for at least 35 laps imposible to do it (that are the laps in our league.....
And you overheat the clutch and did not were pushing hard, for going fasterrr, you were driving so calm to ensure that the clutch did not overheat, but you could not do it....

Here a replay in spr, less heat in spr, the biggest problem is in multiplayer..

Yes i only have the problem in that circuit with that UFR...Since the update Z on Y was running well....

I can heel&toe fine, and I play barefoot as well... G25 btw

The physics in single and multi player are the same, so I doubt either of them is different regarding this problem.

E: Watched a bit of the replay now, I think it boils down to two main points.

First, blipping the throttle under downshift (H'n'T) would generally help keeping the temps down overall, especially due to South City's bumpiness. The bumps cause the tyres to have extra grip during compression, which can then easily overpower the clutch and slip it, even if it is fully engaged. Then after the bump you're sometimes going airborne shortly raising the RPM, only to repeat what I described before once you land again.

Second, if you watch your replay slowed down to 0.125x / 0.250x or even single stepping, you can see that while you do lift off the throttle, you are also very often already fully on the throttle before you even start to release the clutch. Granted, it's a matter of milliseconds, but that way the clutch has to work considerably harder to compensate for any remaining RPM mismatches. Try training yourself to release the clutch a smidgen faster/earlier or go on the throttle a little later than now, so that you only start applying throttle after the clutch has done its work of slowing down the flywheel.

Quote from AndroidXP :

Try training yourself to release the clutch a smidgen faster/earlier or go on the throttle a little later than now, so that you only start applying throttle after the clutch has done its work of slowing down the flywheel.

In real life cars setup for racing, this can actually be worse on the drive train, because if you wait just a bit too long, there's an initial engine braking shock to drivetrain, followed by an engine power shock to the drive train, no to mention it could cause loss of traction at the driven tires. In a racing situation, either the stock clutch can handle some throttle during shifts, or the clutch is replaced with one that can handle this, if the racer plans on being competitive with the car.

I feel that the time spent implementing the clutch burning in LFS would have been better spent on other aspects of the game. Since auto-cut and auto-blip with auto-clutch would have made clutch burning moot, those features were removed, and now the players that have controllers that can use shifting macros have an even more unfair advantage over those that don't.

[quote=AndroidXP;866839]The physics in single and multi player are the same, so I doubt either of them is different regarding this problem.


I think that the physics could be little difference in single and multi player..I said that because in multiplayer i'm always little faster than in single player....

My best lap in Multi : 1:21,090
My best lap in Single or hotlap 1:21,52

But the problem for me is the clutch, not that other question...


Quote from JeffR:

I feel that the time spent implementing the clutch burning in LFS would have been better spent on other aspects of the game. Since auto-cut and auto-blip with auto-clutch would have made clutch burning moot, those features were removed, and now the players that have controllers that can use shifting macros have an even more unfair advantage over those that don't.


I'm totally agree with that, i dont understand why Scawen permits that the most reallistic driving (shifter and clutch pedal) has this dissadvantage over the paddle or secuential gear and Scriptsss..
I think that secuential and paddle gear have to be slowed down to give similar times to H shifter and pedal clucth... (I remember when i was driving in secuential and i were 0.8 to 1.2 second for lap faster, and never had the possibility to missmatch the gear...) i think that point is so important and have to change in lfs (Everybody needs to have the same opportunity to run faster).


AndroidXP you are right sometimes i have back full throttle when i release the clutch but JeffR has explained so well, When i were driving real motorbikes, you had to change how i was changing, if you gear up in a corner and when you release the clutch you arent putting some throttle your will spin...( and in real cars, you have a delay from the time you press the throttle and RPM goes up...)
P.D: I never burned a motorbike clutch, (i were driving in supersport (Yamaha R6), and with 2 strokes engines (125 cc, 250cc Aprilia's)

They still need to factor the torque's shock factor on the drivetrain. In my mustang if I don't heal and toe, the rear tires will chirp, and it sounds rough on the rear end.

Quote from DHRammstein :

They still need to factor the torque's shock factor on the drivetrain. In my mustang if I don't heal and toe, the rear tires will chirp, and it sounds rough on the rear end.

its rough on more than just the rear end. Your entire drivetrain is screaming at you, hehe