I am trialing Live for Speed at the moment butI certainly like what I am seeing so far. I am sure I will like the extra tracks and cars buying a licence will bring. My wheel an ActLabs Force Rs seems to me in the process of giving up the ghost,and, as it is made in Canada and spares support is a bit hard to come by I was wondering if any of you had any suggestions for a reasonably priced replacement(£100 +or- ) I have seen the Thrustmaster Rgt Pro FF Wheel but don't know a lot about it, any suggestions will be appreciated.

This wheel is on sale at Amazon.co.uk For £84-99 inc postage which doesn't seem too bad. Apparently it has a clutch lever and a gizmo for a handbrake. Thanks for the reply.

Its supposed be a good wheel, but I would rather spend £50 on a DFP.

Dan,

Quote from thisnameistaken :

The latter is a PS2 wheel designed for Gran Turismo 4, but has a USB plug and works just fine on PC.

No it isn't designed for GT4/PS2. It's just an advertising trick.

It has a GT4 logo and was released basically for that game, I'd say that makes it designed for it, doesn't necessarily mean the technology used was designed for GT4, just the unit as a whole.

It is Marketed for GT4, not designed. That way they can get you to buy a DFP for GT4 and buy a Momo for the PC.

Quote from mrodgers :

It is Marketed for GT4, not designed. That way they can get you to buy a DFP for GT4 and buy a Momo for the PC.

Exactly. But I think that marketing trick works against itself as Logitech doesn't officially support DFP for PC... despiting the fact that the official drivers have full support.

i have a momo black and ive had no problems with it so far

Logitech Momo Racing!!!

Stay away !!! far away!!! dont touch this wheel!

At first it is a descent wheel with good ffb, rubber on the wheel is good, feels firm and drives well.... its only when u get to the pedals your problems will start.

Pedals look descent but thats about it, you will have many problems with the accelerator pedal due to a design defect which causes the pedal to go out of calibration and giving you 80-90% power when fully pressed down and only way to fix that is to glue the pots to the wheel and add some tape to the base of the pedal so that it doesnt move in its socket... this does fix it and has fixed it for me but now my brake pedal which should be fine started doing something similar.. it goes out of calibration and in the race my brake is 5% pressed at all times... this is annoying and can be fixed again with more tape..

for 85 quid back then (2 years) it was ok until you find out what a pile of crap the wheel really is.... did manage to win a league tho with it

works ok now but just waiting for the next thing to go wrong!...

mad

Interesting point that about pedals, thats where a lot of wheels seem to fall down, mainly, I suspect that they are not built robustly enough. My ActLabs Force Rs pedals seem to have failed in this area,the wheel still works fine. When I buy a new set,quality of manufacture will be important.

well in logitechs case its not that they arent built robust.. its a fault in their design....

the brake pedal uses 2 springs on either side of the socket the pedal is in... this keeps the pedal from moving about and going out of calibration......

the accelerator pedal however has only the one spring on one side of the socket which means the pedal can move about within the socket and therefore going out of calibration...

how ever even tho the break pedal should be safe i did have that enoying brake problem where the pedal was 5% pressed at all times.. a simple clean out and positioning of the potentiometers soon fixed the prob and seems ok for now...

here is a link http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/ for the prob about the pedals.. this method seems to fix it but it isnt really what you should be doing when you paid 85 quid for the wheel...

he also highlighs some of the other probs with the wheel like the knocking when the wheel is going through the center of its rotation... (when not turning) but think logitech managed to fix that one as my friends wheel is quite silent...

btw with the pedals its not just me.. just search the forums and i know of 3 other people who have had this and had to use the simple but yet effective tape method....

so id recommend staying away from the Momo Racing

mad

The MOMO Racing works perfectly over here.
There are problems with some people. But there are also no problems with a lot of people.
It's a nice wheel. Serves good for lots of months if not years. And it definitely looks better than the DFP. I don't like those PS2-buttons and the wheel-design of the DFP. If the DFP had a better wheel design I would be in posession of a DFP today, but that way the MOMO is the only wheel I really consider worth buying.

Vain

DFP + Frex + Momo 11 = best wheel, ok, so its pricey, but WELL worth it

Dan,

The Momo and DFP pedal sets are the same AFAIK .The newer rev B pedals have the metal pots as found in the older Momo Force (red), and the rev A pedals have the blue plastic pots. The Momo Racing has better paddle shifters than the DFP by a long way!

However I think the Momo Racing is a great wheel and the pedals are good enough if treated well (shoes off ) and easy to repair if they do go wrong .

all 3 wheels Momo (red and the black) and the DFP are High end wheels with great FF, it just comes down to preference .

SD.

Agreed, the default DFP paddles are a pain, this is how my DFP - Frex - Wheel should look once I get it sorted > http://j-san.com/djm/images/sp_index.php?dir=./dfp_mod

Although I have a Momo 11 wheel instead of the Sparco, the main reason for me the get this was for the paddles, as you can see the frex ones are a lot easier to reach.

Dan,

Ive got a dfp and have had if for about 6 weeks now i think. No problems yet but im aware is early yet. Altho its quite expensive i love the wheel and glad i spent £70 instead of £50 or what ever on some crap.

<hijack> Does anyone know how to find out which pedals are which, like plastic or metal pots? </hijack>

As far as I know the DFPs never had problems with cheap pots. On the MOMOs rev A has the cheap pots, rev B seems to be better.

Vain

I have the DFP, I love(ed) it when it works/worked. For 3 months it worked fine, I had no problems with it what so ever, I played LFS everyday via LAN w/ my friends. After thoes 3 months...actually after GT4 came out I was playing it on my PS2 and I noticed my car was slow as hell. During the replay I saw my brake lights were constantly on. I hooked it up to my PC and loaded LFS...and noticed that the brake pedal was out of wack. It was either on a little, or it would spike to be full on...This slowly got worse the the point where nothing was playable. Finally I cleaned the pot and it worked fine for a week, then the gas pedal started to do the same thing. CLeaned them again, fine for a couple days, same thing again. I gave up on it for a while. Last week i decided to battle with it again, i pluged it in and it didnt do its normal self calibration thingy. the wheel doesnt get any power now, that is a totally different issue than the pedals but it still sucks. I loved the wheel, I just wish it didnt break. LFS with a mouse sucks. When actlabs releases the new pedals I will probably go out and buy another DFP and use the actlabs pedals. untill then, no LFS for me

Quote from Greboth :

<hijack> Does anyone know how to find out which pedals are which, like plastic or metal pots? </hijack>

... Look inside and see?


...


I still love my Momo Racing, it's worked excellent for over 3 years now.

(and under HEAVY use!)

I ran into that gas pedal issue, but ever since the updated driver was posted on the Logitech site, it's been resolved. Occasionally the pots get a tad noisy, causing slightly spiked inputs, but cleaning the pots with some contact cleaner every year seems to alleviate that. I doubt that the rev B pedals suffer from any of this. The wheel itself works excellent and always has.

DFP wheel = rock solid performer. Logitech pedals = piece of plastic crap and they WILL fail on you if you don't do some moderate modifying, which of course means warranty void. And for heaven's sake do yourself a favor and increase the ffb steps in config file to 256.

Funny sidenote: my MS non-FF Precision wheel's pedal set is about 4 years old and they work flawlessly, as the Logi pedals went belly up after couple of months.

Logi Momo Racing: first thing I noticed were the flimsy paddles - the left one failed as I was gearing down into Lesmo 2, racing online with GPL. That was when I learned to use the stick and I haven't looked back since. The stick rules! I still haven't fixed the paddles

I also had the pedal de-calibration issues, tried the various patches and stuff that are meant to fix the issues, had some success but mostly after patching the pedals would de-calibrate again and I'd be back where I started.

I did, however, find a solution that worked perfectly: I stopped using the Profiler software altogether - problem solved! Now my wheel/pedals are problem free, whether it's LFS, GPL, nK or anything else...haven't even needed a recalibration since I've done it. Poor thing, I've had it since late '02 and never even cleaned the pots..somehow it still works

I had some good news from the people at ActLabs in Canada, it seems that they can supply me a new potentiometer to enablr me to get my throttle pedal working again, so I've got one coming. I certainly had no problems with my Force RS wheel before the snag with the throttle in over 4 years. I'll be a licenced user as soon as my pedals are up and running.