well time is ticking and im starting to see more and more people asking for setups and sharing setups here and there. If you got a setup you want to share for this particular event, post it here.
Official Setup Thread
Id be interested in a Gt2 Fxr set, if any1 has one, please.
Thx in advantage, Alfons
Thx in advantage, Alfons
This set was meant for AS5, but i tweaked it a bit for KY and so it handles a bit better. its a excellent setup FZR newbies. I managed 2.15 offline with the 16h layout so in the hands of a pro, you could manage far less.
anyone wants to share a set for XFR? 
setupgrid and inferno are rly cool...
:d :d
edit: stupid smilies
(ssm)
DELETED
by commandermas
ssm please don't put links to your setups. This is for a 16 hour race on the 25th of October.
gtfo , please.
You must be lost. Demo is that way ->
Oh, that is an FBM drift setup.
This is a thread for a specific race containing vehicles out of reach of demo players, meaning a demo racer should have no reason to post in any thread in this sub-topic unless it was a "good luck"
/facepalm
/facepalm
I have a question to ask about GT2 setups. Is it okay just to leave the gear ratios as they are and add the necessary restrictions to the cars?
ofc lol, your setup, do what you want. But you wont get very far, well, not very quickly anyway.
Ben i would have entered the GT1 class but i ain't brave enough to go 5th gear through corners in GT1. So GT1 class setups with necessary restrictions added and not changing the gear ratios in accordance to the top speed of the GT2 cars is ok?
as i said, yes, but slow.
What Benji is saying is theres nothing to stop you, but you'd be stupid to do so.
The gear ratio is set so that it gets the best out of the cars power, when you take 20% of its power away then the engine is never going to hit 100% which is what those gears are set for.
I dont touch setups, but i know enough to know that very little of a GT1 setup is carried over to a GT2 setup, your not driving the same car anymore, you start changing basic things camber, toe and downforce etc because your car at its limits doesnt struggle as much round corners, it doesnt need as much help holding the line so you remove that help because the less you have the faster your car is in a straight line.
Thanks Paul. I didn't know that you had to change downforce, camber, toe, caster, parallel steer for converting GT1 to GT2 sets.
Well, as Benji says, you dont HAVE to, but it makes sense to rebuild the whole setup, or at least make some changes because the setup was made for a 450bhp/ton car, and your riding with 320-330.
The differences between GT1 and GT2 are nothing more than power/top speed really, their cornering speed is the same (provided the GT2 can reach that speed, but fundamentally it can do it). So if you could do 80mph round T1 in the GT1, you can in the GT2 with the same setup, however you'll find that you can remove some of the assistance which helps carry speed round corners in order to make them faster in a straight line (or in places you dont need help with traction).
Gearing is an absolute must really, you'd probably not get into 6th gear with a GT1 ratio, let alone run it near to the redline, so you losing gears. You basically need to cater to the changes you car has now its removed 20% (i think) of its available power. So definately sort the ratio out, the rest is down to personal preference, what you feel comfortable with. You could run low downforce but end up with the car sliding around more and burning up the tyres and spinning off, or you could add more with a safer car and lose a little down the straights. Its always a trade-off, just run what your comfortable running not what joe public says is best cos joe isnt driving it, you are.
Its probably the hardest part of the GT2 class, because there arent setups freely available like there are for any standard car, let alone really good sets you feel comfortable with, so you need to do a lot of the legwork for yourself, or do what i do, sit back and let teammates see to it all
nobody would drive anything i'd created!! 
The differences between GT1 and GT2 are nothing more than power/top speed really, their cornering speed is the same (provided the GT2 can reach that speed, but fundamentally it can do it). So if you could do 80mph round T1 in the GT1, you can in the GT2 with the same setup, however you'll find that you can remove some of the assistance which helps carry speed round corners in order to make them faster in a straight line (or in places you dont need help with traction).
Gearing is an absolute must really, you'd probably not get into 6th gear with a GT1 ratio, let alone run it near to the redline, so you losing gears. You basically need to cater to the changes you car has now its removed 20% (i think) of its available power. So definately sort the ratio out, the rest is down to personal preference, what you feel comfortable with. You could run low downforce but end up with the car sliding around more and burning up the tyres and spinning off, or you could add more with a safer car and lose a little down the straights. Its always a trade-off, just run what your comfortable running not what joe public says is best cos joe isnt driving it, you are.
Its probably the hardest part of the GT2 class, because there arent setups freely available like there are for any standard car, let alone really good sets you feel comfortable with, so you need to do a lot of the legwork for yourself, or do what i do, sit back and let teammates see to it all
nobody would drive anything i'd created!! Can't let Paul strugle alone with you people.. so here's a basic GT1 to GT2 setup conversion guide:
We'll use the FZR as an example. A good setup for a GT1 FZR goes something likes this (for kyoto gp long):
Springs: 120/100 (rear/front)
Antirollbars: 115/40 (rear/front)
Dampers: REAR 9/12 (bump/rebound); FRONT (6.5/8.5)
Ride heights: 80/75 (rear/front)
Gears: 3.77/2.55/2.00/1.63/1.39/1.22 and final drive 3.22
Differential: Clutchpack LSD 50/70 (power/coast) with 650-750 preload
Tires: R3 all around, front pressures 145 kPa, rear pressures 220 kPa, camber adjust values -0.9 front and -1.4 rear (for the above spring stifnesses and ride heights this results in the live cambers of -2.28° on front and -2.22° on rears)
Downforce: 10/15 (front/rear)
Steering: max lock, max caster, 0 front toe and +0.3 rear
Now if you are about to make a GT2 setup out of that you do this: leave the suspension alone, leave the gears alone but increase the value of final drive to 3.400 (this makes the gears closer together - shorter). New peak power rpm is 7600 rpm instead of 8100 so the new shift point is 8000 rpm instead of 8500, do not wait for the shiftlight, just shift at 8000 (cant be bothered explaining why). Since the car has much less power and will not power-oversteer like a GT1 you will need more wing on front (or less wing on the rear) but you need a lower overall downforce - so look at the distribution. The GT1 set with 10/15 has 33.7 % downforce on the front, you need more than that but with lower wings - 8/12 wings gives you 34.2 % on front so use that (or 7/11 or 9/13 depending on how much df you want). DO NOT BE STUPID ENOUGH TO SAY "oh it has 350 hp and doesnt need almost any df so let's just put zero or something like 1/5". The air drag rises exponentially with top speed, you are doing 40 km/h less in the top-speed department with 150 hp less, you can almost leave the same wings as a GT1 car but since there's no power to provide you adequate cornering speed go with a bit lower wings (not a lot, a bit). Since there's no power, even with more downforce to the front, the car is bound to understeer on power - so increase the differential power locking to max (80 %). Tires.. use a softer compound if you can handle the temperatures and not ruin the tires, so max pressures R2 tires (240 kPa on the rear and then balance out the front with 160 kPa or something similar). Steering, since there's no power at all and even with more downforce on front and more locking in the diff you will still understeer, so just remove as much rear toe as u feel comfortable with (I have 0 rear toe on the GT2 set, you might slide around with that value, so try +0.1 or +0.2 but +0.3 is prolly too much).
That's about it. Change downforce, increase final drive value by 0.150-0.180, softer tires and generally more oversteer because you lack the power to produce it. GT2 setup is done.
We'll use the FZR as an example. A good setup for a GT1 FZR goes something likes this (for kyoto gp long):
Springs: 120/100 (rear/front)
Antirollbars: 115/40 (rear/front)
Dampers: REAR 9/12 (bump/rebound); FRONT (6.5/8.5)
Ride heights: 80/75 (rear/front)
Gears: 3.77/2.55/2.00/1.63/1.39/1.22 and final drive 3.22
Differential: Clutchpack LSD 50/70 (power/coast) with 650-750 preload
Tires: R3 all around, front pressures 145 kPa, rear pressures 220 kPa, camber adjust values -0.9 front and -1.4 rear (for the above spring stifnesses and ride heights this results in the live cambers of -2.28° on front and -2.22° on rears)
Downforce: 10/15 (front/rear)
Steering: max lock, max caster, 0 front toe and +0.3 rear
Now if you are about to make a GT2 setup out of that you do this: leave the suspension alone, leave the gears alone but increase the value of final drive to 3.400 (this makes the gears closer together - shorter). New peak power rpm is 7600 rpm instead of 8100 so the new shift point is 8000 rpm instead of 8500, do not wait for the shiftlight, just shift at 8000 (cant be bothered explaining why). Since the car has much less power and will not power-oversteer like a GT1 you will need more wing on front (or less wing on the rear) but you need a lower overall downforce - so look at the distribution. The GT1 set with 10/15 has 33.7 % downforce on the front, you need more than that but with lower wings - 8/12 wings gives you 34.2 % on front so use that (or 7/11 or 9/13 depending on how much df you want). DO NOT BE STUPID ENOUGH TO SAY "oh it has 350 hp and doesnt need almost any df so let's just put zero or something like 1/5". The air drag rises exponentially with top speed, you are doing 40 km/h less in the top-speed department with 150 hp less, you can almost leave the same wings as a GT1 car but since there's no power to provide you adequate cornering speed go with a bit lower wings (not a lot, a bit). Since there's no power, even with more downforce to the front, the car is bound to understeer on power - so increase the differential power locking to max (80 %). Tires.. use a softer compound if you can handle the temperatures and not ruin the tires, so max pressures R2 tires (240 kPa on the rear and then balance out the front with 160 kPa or something similar). Steering, since there's no power at all and even with more downforce on front and more locking in the diff you will still understeer, so just remove as much rear toe as u feel comfortable with (I have 0 rear toe on the GT2 set, you might slide around with that value, so try +0.1 or +0.2 but +0.3 is prolly too much).
That's about it. Change downforce, increase final drive value by 0.150-0.180, softer tires and generally more oversteer because you lack the power to produce it. GT2 setup is done.
scipy how did you learn to do sets?
Great tutorial Scipy. 
Ty for that. Might be usefull for future GT2 sets in CTRA although FZR GT2 has 28% restriction in there... grr.
Ty for that. Might be usefull for future GT2 sets in CTRA although FZR GT2 has 28% restriction in there... grr.Bought books on the subject, read them and started thinking for myself.
cool, can you suggest some?
Chilton?
idk first car book manual i could think of, and i might have spelled it wrong.
idk first car book manual i could think of, and i might have spelled it wrong.
Driving books: (in order in which you should rent/buy and read them)
- Speed Secrets 1 by Ross Bently (I was a complete nob when I bought this, the only thing that I knew and understood was that you go through a corner from outside to inside and back to outisde)
- Drive to Win by Carroll Smith (After SS1 this was a nice no-bullshit addition which included a lot more tehnical information about tires and other tehnical aspects of race cars)
Other driving books that I have are:
Speed Secrets 2-6, How to reach the top as a competition driver (by Turner & Taylor), The technique of motor racing (by Piero Taruffi), Going Faster! (by Skip Barber racing school). Now, you shouldn't really buy those. You can if you want to, I've bought and read them all because there are no books on driving in Croatia (especially ones in english) and I don't regret buying them but they aren't really neccesarry after the first 2 books, everything starts to repeat itself (especially in the Speed Secrets series, after book 1 you know what you need to know, the following 5 books are just Dr. Phil crap about "IMAGINE URSELF DOING IT" - mental imaging is a proper development technique but these guys were pushing it like it's the New Testiment). If you can rent these books then get one by Taruffi cause it's basically the first book ever written on the subject of racing and it has a nice historic point of view. Then get Speed Secrets 2, 3 and 4 (u can seriously skip 5 and 6). But since I know how people get you're better off just reading the first 2, because this is what will happen: you will start reading a book and then you will wanna drive and you will drive and you will forget about the book and it will be there for months before you pick it up again, so even 2 books are more than some people will be able to get through.
Race car mechanics & dynamics books (also in order):
- Tune to Win by Carroll Smith (this is the BIBLE, buy this one.)
- Race car engineering and mechanics by Paul Van Valkenburgh (a lot more recent than the Smith one, more pictures and some stuff about FWD cars, maybe only 10-20 % of new information if you have read Tune to Win.)
- Inside Racing Technology by Paul Haney and Jeff Braun (more of the same old same old but extensive info on dampers (which are still the thing most people know almost nothing about), so I got it because of the dampers part of the book and some interviews that are in the book, I'm not sorry I got it.)
Other books on race cars (that I have) include: Prepare to Win (Smith), Engineer to Win (Smith), Nuts, bolts & fastners (Smith). These are more about real life racing and contain no usefull information for simulation racing (which bolts to use where, how to plumb stuff together etc etc).
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Official Setup Thread
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