how can i turn a joystick(fpr plane sim) into a handbrake?has anyone done this before???please help!

I´ve never done that, but if it´s worth for something I use a program called "joytokey" that takes joystick inputs and convert them into key strokes. Don´t know if it can handle axes and that kind of stuff.

What would be he point of using joytokey? a handbrake's "analog", therfore you would only need to assign the axis to handbrake, then do the physical modificasions nesessary to make it behave like a handbrake.

Well, i saw another thread with ideas to modify a joy to handbrake. Many good ideas there. search for it.

I found it: http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=39484

Go to the auto wreckers and buy a used handbrake out of a car (cost me $1)... go to a hardware store and buy a spring of some sorts, a fairly large one. The one I used is meant for keeping a garden gate shut... you can use one meant for a screen door as well. ($8).

Mount the handbrake on a 2x4 or some sort of peice of wood. Put the spring behind it so when you pull the handbrake up it will go "click click click" just like a real one and offer some resistance.

Take an old logitech joystick or something like that and use whatever.. a peice of string or a small peice of wire and attach the analog stick to it so when you pull the handbrake up it pulls the stick.

The joystick or USB controller is the most expensive part... its not hard to make, but it does take some time.

Quote from wtf im nameless :

Go to the auto wreckers and buy a used handbrake out of a car (cost me $1)... go to a hardware store and buy a spring of some sorts, a fairly large one. The one I used is meant for keeping a garden gate shut... you can use one meant for a screen door as well. ($8).

Mount the handbrake on a 2x4 or some sort of peice of wood. Put the spring behind it so when you pull the handbrake up it will go "click click click" just like a real one and offer some resistance.

Take an old logitech joystick or something like that and use whatever.. a peice of string or a small peice of wire and attach the analog stick to it so when you pull the handbrake up it pulls the stick.

The joystick or USB controller is the most expensive part... its not hard to make, but it does take some time.

Thats awsome (gonna try it now) going to g2et g25 TOO!

I actually just made a handbrake for my setup -

http://picasaweb.google.com/da ... _test#5242186150577893810

you can also find some pics at:
(cockpit is still under construction... hopefully i'll be done soon)

http://www.dapcwiz.com/misc/index.php?dir=c0ckp1t


also... now that I have this... I find the auto handbrake in lfs kinda annoying. Is there a way to disable it?

I've acutally JUST finished making one using an actual handbrake from my local Pick-Your-Part.

First I went to pick ur part and ripped out the whole center console and the handbrake. I then bought some plywood and built a small box (support for the center console) and then made a bigger box to put the joystick into. I cut holes in both boxes (stacked on top of each other) and attached a string from the handbrake cable mount to the joystick. It works PERFECT. I will add some photos soon.

EDIT: Added 2 pictures. As you can see on the first pic, I have 2 more steps to finish. First is to make a mount for my shifter at the front of the console. Second is to cover all the wood in a felt like material.

That looks okay, but how do you config the joystick? (i have the g25 and a logitech joystick) how do i config it as an axsis?

Using a Logitech Attack3 jostick as a direct handbrake here.

The analog axis sits at rest in the centre and registers halfway along the axis so it's always half pulled on in LFS. :/
So I used DXTWEAK to fix that so the top 1/2 arc of the Joystick is interpreted as the whole range. However some games can't even register more than one controller (wouldn't work in RBR) and some have the axis inverted which cannot be changed. :banghead:

To make all games work with it I just assign the joystick axis to the "D" key using JoyToKey program and assign the handbrake in my games to the "D" key. Not a true analoge handbrake no, but the hassles when changing games is painful enough to make me me sick and I find I never want just a little handbrake, when I pull it I need full handbrake anyway, so meh works for what I want. This way all games work and I don't have to reconfigure stuff everytime I change games.

Positioned it perfectly so I can rip on the e-brake and then change gears quickly. Also the Joystick comes out easily for flight sims to.

RHD version:

Quote from JasonJ :

Using a Logitech Attack3 jostick as a direct handbrake here.

The analog axis sits at rest in the centre and registers halfway along the axis so it's always half pulled on in LFS. :/
So I used DXTWEAK to fix that so the top 1/2 arc of the Joystick is interpreted as the whole range. However some games can't even register more than one controller (wouldn't work in RBR) and some have the axis inverted which cannot be changed. :banghead:

To make all games work with it I just assign the joystick axis to the "D" key using JoyToKey program and assign the handbrake in my games to the "D" key. Not a true analoge handbrake no, but the hassles when changing games is painful enough to make me me sick and I find I never want just a little handbrake, when I pull it I need full handbrake anyway, so meh works for what I want. This way all games work and I don't have to reconfigure stuff everytime I change games.

Positioned it perfectly so I can rip on the e-brake and then change gears quickly. Also the Joystick comes out easily for flight sims to.

RHD version:

Jason,
Can u pls post how you config dxTweak in order to make it work on lfs?
For that i mean the values of the X axis
Already tried but no sucess

I only changed the Y-Axis. This is the axis for moving the stick forwards and back.

It's supposed to be set to
Min 128
Cen 192
Max 255

but then the slightest movement will pull on the handbrake ever so slightly so I use Cen 130 to give a little "dead-zone" at the stick's resting centre.

It seems like instead of using DXtweak, you can choose to recalibrate the axis in LFS and only extend the stick through the half you want to use. Then choose LOCK in LFS and then it will ignore the other half of the axis.

If you havent seen this so
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v ... p;feature=player_embedded

thank you to both...
it caused me some problems setting it up, but it works now..

the next step is building a some sort of base to the joystick ))