Hi guys, i've got a Swiftech Water cooling kit compact.
I also have this with it, http://www.overclockers.co.uk/ ... olant%201%20Litre%20(Blue

Do i just fill the whole thing up with that?
Thanks
Harjun

Yes

Although you may need more (i.e. for me I have 2.5L of De-Ionised water).

so i have to put the 1L of it in the rad, and then put the rest of de-ion water?

In the Reservoir you put all the water - No idea about how much stuff you'll need (Googling might help) but basically use common sense and you'll be fine.

Sooner or later...

Quote from Jakg :

use common sense and you'll be fine.

PS: For ensuring maximum performance, don't forget to overclock the water pump, too!

Quote from AndroidXP :

PS: For ensuring maximum performance, don't forget to overclock the water pump, too!

yes, thank you for that.

Quote from hrtburnout :

Sooner or later...

I dunno why, but this had me cracking up...

... in class. Damn you.

You don't need to dilute feser. If you run out just buy another.

Although as long as you used de-ionised water I can't see that diluting it would actually do any harm, although it'll take the edge off the uv-reactiveness.

You won't need more than a 1L to fill up the compact kit. I had the same kit but with the 240 rad and it took a little over 500ml to fill. The kit comes with concentrated fluid that you mix with de-ionised water so im not sure why you bought the Feser But if its for the uv affect, then you will be disapointed cause the kit comes with black hoses

Seriously if you need to ask about how to set it up maybe you should just get decent air cooling since if you don't do it right you're gunna do alot of dmg

ok, it's all setup now.
Had a few problems at first, as i was also transferring everything into an Antec 900 and the system was randomly turning on and off. But after resetting the CMOS it seems fine now, everythings back to standard now (2Ghz E2180). I'm gonna leave it like that for a little while, as i was very frustrated last night, (transferring everything to the new case).
I'm very pleased with the case aswell, lots of space to work with and its pretty big!
Well thank you for telling me to fill the rad up with JUST the Feser liquid, because that was right. I was confused because sometimes you mix the concentrate with distilled water. But this was ready to run liquid
Thanks guys.

If it was turning on and off randomly before you reset the BIOS, chances are (in all seriousness now!) you overclocked it too high. Either that, or you actually set it to come on at a certain time, and off at a certain time. My BIOS has that option

But why oh why are you watercooling a machine based on an E2180 though? I've a highly-clocked Q6600 (high as I dare anyway, I've brought it back to 3.0Ghz as it started BSOD'ing lately at 3.15Ghz :schwitz and air cooling keeps it below 35 degrees most of the time. Not saying you shouldn't use it, just wondering what's your reason for wanting it

Quote from dougie-lampkin :

But why oh why are you watercooling a machine based on an E2180 though?

Because you can. Do you need another reason?

no, as i said i swapped my mini-t remote control car for an Antec 900 with a Swiftech H20 compact kit pre-installed.
I'm running it at 3.4Ghz now, all stable, intel-speedstep enabled, and its load temps are 51, so i'm quite happy about that now.

I'm just wondering why you have speedstep on. I can see how its power efficient and all that but if your going through all of the trouble trying to make your computer faster why are you just telling it to go slower again?

From my experiences with speedstep its meant to lower the multi when your not using power, then up it to normal when you are loading the CPU. Mine didn't work - it just didn't raise the multi back up at all no matter what I was doing.

mine does work, it goes up to 3.4 again when i just refresh my desktop .
I'm guessing my cpu would last longer aswell, as it won't be on 3.4 when im doing homework on microsoft word

I have a E2180 as well. I have it overclocked at 2.6GHz, 1066MHz FSB, 533MHz memory speed. The multiplier does not go any higher then 10x on my motherboard. 1066MHz is the highest I can increase the FSB and still have it run stable. Stock HSF by the way.

I found the new E series of Intel CPU's (The C2D and Qs) seemed to have pretty good standard coolers. After 4 hours of TDU with max everything, with WMP playing and a torrent going, it was only 44 degrees xD

Quote from S14 DRIFT :

I found the new E series of Intel CPU's (The C2D and Qs) seemed to have pretty good standard coolers. After 4 hours of TDU with max everything, with WMP playing and a torrent going, it was only 44 degrees xD

Right yer no they don't. Doesn't matter if it was 4 hours, 4 minutes or 40 secs, any of those are enough time for the CPU to get up to max temp. That's hardly surprising assuming you were running stock?

Sounds like you've gone away and possibly got this overclocking malarky dialed in now harjun. Good stuff.

Quote from pb32000 :

Right yer no they don't. Doesn't matter if it was 4 hours, 4 minutes or 40 secs, any of those are enough time for the CPU to get up to max temp. That's hardly surprising assuming you were running stock?

Sounds like you've gone away and possibly got this overclocking malarky dialed in now harjun. Good stuff.

ok thanks mate.
I'm very pleased with the watercooling kit, far better than i expected really. And i'm sure it's better than most of those other watercooling kits on the market, as this thing is just immense.
I was aiming for 3.6, i booted into windows and all, but Orthos was saying it wasnt stable after about 10seconds, even though all was fine, so i played safe and backed down to 3.4 and all's good.
Very pleased as it does the pi in 18, and thats with a few programmes running, and i opened windows media player towards the end lol

Quote from harjun :

ok thanks mate.
I'm very pleased with the watercooling kit, far better than i expected really. And i'm sure it's better than most of those other watercooling kits on the market, as this thing is just immense.
I was aiming for 3.6, i booted into windows and all, but Orthos was saying it wasnt stable after about 10seconds, even though all was fine, so i played safe and backed down to 3.4 and all's good.
Very pleased as it does the pi in 18, and thats with a few programmes running, and i opened windows media player towards the end lol

What temperatures do you get under 100% load, using Intel's TAT? I'm curious, because I own a 2180 too.

52 Celcius, i'm aiming for 4Ghz, and i've got a bet going on with a few people on from another forum that i can get it to boot at 4Ghz
Right now i've got it booting and running windows at 3.7. Thats on 1.6 Vcore
My aim is 3.8 though, thats more realistic

4Ghz??? You realise that that's twice the standard clock? Good luck :rolleyes:

I thought you said you were sensible now? Having a bet over how high you can clock your CPU before it goes pop is just plain stupidity. Find a reasonable clock (52 degrees at load isn't worryingly high, but clearly not advisable. My 3Ghz quad runs at ~40 degrees at full tilt, and it's on air cooling, so I can run it at that all day without worrying. The max temperature your CPU will do, according to Intel, is 73.2 degrees. You're cutting it a little too close for everyday use).

You've just said it was unstable after 10 seconds on 3.4Ghz, sheer logic would suggest "Hey, let's not try and increase it even higher!". How much machinery do you have to go through before you can realise not to cock about with it? Can you just send them (or even better, the cash) to me instead of frying them?

I doubt you'll get 4 GHz - I seriously doubt it.