No problem man, I sound harsh in my earlier posts but there's a LOT to read up on that we can't answer here without previous knowledge of the engine really. (Other than generic tuning answers of course).
I'm sure as you already know that's a great engine, sadly you won't be able to insure a modified one until you're 21 or so, but still a couple years of building beforehand would be good.
That site is I believe the best site for Vauxhall tuning.
Ok, cheers no problem. I never knew you had to be over 21 to insure a modified engine, good really that you have to so 17 year olds dont get their hands on a modified engine and kill themselves. I will read up on the engine. I was going to throw it into a corsa, would you say it is ok to do so? I was going to go for the C20LET but I thought it would be better to go for a newer engine, the Z20LET.
Induction kits and such like are easy to remove though, I wouldn't think an insurance company would actually be fussed about something like a aftermarket air filter anyway.
Nah just really meant that any major mods are difficult to insure in the first few years. And by difficult I mean expensive lol.
I know what you mean about minor mods though, things like an aftermarket panel filter shouldn't cause a problem, but you have to remember the insurance company isn't looking to be nice to you, only to pay out if everything is in order.
Air filters are free, so long as they are a direct replacement of a consumable part, after all for those who are hell bent on maximum performance not running an air filter won't invalidate your insurance. The induction system is a very important component of the engine and definitely is not free for undeclared modifications. What a lot of stupid idiots (who tend to like buying induction kits and big back boxes) don't seem to realise is that it is very difficult to convincingly refit a standard induction system to a smashed up car, made harder still when the car is impounded.
which if you do it properly will require a completely new rear suspension and a spaceframe to mount the suspension and the engine to... both of which will also require engineering if you dont want the car to end up being rubbish afterwards
by the time youre done youll have wasted enough time and money that buying a car that is good and rwd would be a much better option instead of a corsa which is neither
it seems you can get away with telling people you wish they were dead so im sure youll survive... as long as youre not secretly canadian
Well a standard K20A is 200-220bhp with the supercharger just bolted on with bits of plumbing it was 320bhp, with a total engine rebuild, fancy pistons, linears, the works, some extra air scoops it was 450-500bhp.
One thing though, as the Z20LET already is turbo'd, would it be best to keep that turbo and still have a supercharger on the car. I say this because the turbo obviously gives the engine some of its power and to keep that I would have to keep the turbo or get a better one wouldn't I?
What is the goal here? I'm not sure if there would be any real benefit to having a supercharger plus a turbocharger, combined with the fact that you'd have to properly match their outputs to get them to work properly.
But, the Z20LET without the turbo wont be 200bhp though would it, so to keep it 200bhp I would need to keep the turbo on it, then put a supercharger on the engine to boost the hp from 200 upwards. Correct?
You can't simply add up power figures for various bolt on components, it just doesn't work like that. Forget about multiple arrangements of turbos and superchargers, forget even about any kind of forced induction, read a book or go to somewhere like howstuffworks.com and learn the basic principle of a four stroke petrol engine. Then after you've learnt how an engine works (which will take you more than an afternoon to learn) then move on to reading about conventional single forced induction systems, by the time you understand all that you'll soon be able to answer all these questions.
Thought this was better in the open, as I've never attempted a FWD to RWD or 4WD conversion, so need the 'experience of the masses' to correct me and add further suggestions or ideas.
To convert a FWD to a RWD:
1. You'll need a rear suspension that leaves enough room for the drivetrain.,
2. You'll need uprights that accept driveshafts, and a handbrake mechanism that fits it.
3. You'll need a differential or transaxle, and space to fit it.
4. You'll need a propshaft (assuming you keep it front engined), and the space to fit it, with suitable reinforcement for the event of propshaft explosions.
5. You'll need a gearbox that can fit a longitudinal propshaft, that can also mount to the engine.
6. You need to make all the above (and all the below if I think of more) work together to give decent wheel control, traction, drivetrain angles, load paths etc etc (almost ad infinitum)
7. Sort out the suspension and steering to take into the account you've completely the changed the vehicle. You'll need to start from scratch with respect to springs, dampers, roll bars, wheel rates, spring rates.
8. You'll probably need to brace the chassis so that the back end can cope with delivering power.
9. You'll need a new exhaust system entirely.
10. You'll probably have to relocate the fuel tank, which will require adjustments to the fuel system.
11. What are you going to do about tyre sizes, because the loads and requirements at each corner will be totally different.
Of course, you can add things to this list until you're using four figure numbers. And you can ignore some of them if you don't want to do a proper job and are happy risking your life and the lives of others every time you use them. 99% of home garage mechanics will ignore 99% of the steps and do a half-arsed job (and then cover it in metallic paint to draw attention away from the fact they don't know what they were doing).
To convert to 4WD:
1. Most of the above, but with different answers and a whole lot more complexity and weight.