the IRQ_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL error is 99% of the time caused by a bad driver. Usually video card or sound card drivers. Try fully uninstalling and reinstalling your video card drivers with the latest version and see if that helps. if not, try your sound card, and check for updated bios versions for your mother board. If everything seems stable and up to date, try reducing your audio hardware acceleration and sample rate conversion in control panel. Ive been having BSODs lately and turning down the acceleration fixed the problem, however it is still only a temporary fix. I cant help you past that.

the only other thing to do if that doesnt help is email the makers of your video/sound card with the details of the BSOD and hope they can help you

http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?t=35916 see post #14
try searching the forum before you post
and yes you can easily uninstall nHancer if you dont want it

thanks ill try it, but im pretty sure its not a calibration issue. Ive tried calibrating them with no luck, and i have even tried using the same clutch pedal for gas and brake and it then works fine. Any pedal i set to the clutch has this problem

well i made a quick youtube video to illustrate the problem. Its really starting to get on my nerves now because it makes it quite difficult to accelerate smoothly from a stop. Notice in the video the difference in the relation between the "slider 0" axis and the blue clutch bar first in the menu, and then in-game.

http://ca.youtube.com/watch?v=-fbwIHz-5YQ

finally an answer lol yes I totally agree. It does make sense for the clutch not to engage right away when thinking about the mechanics of it. The only thing im confused about is why the blue clutch bar has full range in menu screens but not in-game......

I don't know if anyone has seen this yet but while browsing hotlaps, I came across a racer named rockclan who had got a time of 0:43.80 on fbm oval which is very suspicious because the previous record was just over 49 secongs. I went to watch the replay but it came up 00S error or something. I have seen this error come up when I tried out mecanik a few versions back and there is a lot of talk of a tweak being leaked for patch y. Can someone check this out to confirm?

edit: more evidence of cheating......rockclan was last at a server called -TR- Tweaks and he had a lap time of 30 seconds which is impossible for fbm

Last edited by eric1123, Fri, 28 Dec 2007 03:15.

I am having the same problem. The issue is with the new nvidia drivers. The only thing you can do is revert back to the old drivers to get the AA to work. This was taken from the front page of www.tweakguides.com



Forceware Forced Anti-Aliasing Issues

23 December 2007


The latest Official Forceware 169.21 and 169.25 have problems with allowing many users to force Anti-Aliasing via the game-specific profiles in the Forceware Control Panel. Any forced Anti-Aliasing for specific applications or games may not work; you can only force AA via the Global Settings tab, but clearly this will then apply equally to all your games, which is generally undesirable. For this reason, you may wish to try an older or newer Beta version instead. I've switched to using the recent 169.13 Beta Forceware which doesn't suffer from this issue and seems quite good. You can obtain it from here: XP 32-bit, XP 64-bit, Vista 32-bit, and Vista 64-bit.

Sounds most like a video card problem. Theres a chance it could be overheating so be sure that you have good air flow in your computer and update to the latest drivers from your video card manufacturers site. There are a few programs you can download to monitor your gfx temperature like Riva Tuner, PC Wizard, or Speedfan. Although they are capable of temperatures of around 130, they run most efficiently when below 80/90 under load.

I don't think it is possible to change the separate parameters of the ff in lfs, unless you have a lot of experience in programming and you'd have to dig pretty deep in the program to do it. However there is a value in the cfg.txt file that relates to FF called FF step num. I'm not entirely sure what it does but I have read about people changing it from 128 to 256 or 512 and getting different results. I tried it but didn't notice any change, but it may work for you. But I think it would be nice to be able to change separate properties of the FF because that way we could get the the most realistic feel from the wheel. I also find the wheel difficult to turn sometimes, and when i turn down the FF I lose all feel of the bumps. It only seems to happen in lfs for some reason.

yep, same with fbm @ oval....theres WRs on lfsworld but none show up in game

Just as the title says....I had just set a time of 49.10 in fbm oval beating my previous wr or 49.13, only to find out that the replay wasn't being recorded I was experimenting with using a mouse to steer quicker when warming up my tires, and switching to wheel for the hotlap. I can somewhat see why you would want the replay to stop recording, but it still seems pointless to me....Is this a feature to somehow prevent cheating, or a bug?

I made this layout to help drivers get a better understanding of exactly where each part of the vehicle is on the road. I had pulled some ideas from the show Canada's Worst Driver 3 which include a forward s-curve, reverse s-curve, 360° 4 point cross, parallel parking, and controlled donuts This also helps train drivers to use their mirrors (assuming you stay in cockpit view for the whole course) as you constantly need to look out for obstacles behind you. It helps a lot to use mouse-look (axis) in the view menu. The intended route is:

1. Forward through first s-curve
2. Reverse in second s-curve
3. 180° turn and enter cross
4. Rotate vehicle a full 360° and exit cross in reverse
5. Turn right and parallel park in the space ahead
6. Exit parking and perform controlled victory donuts around post

I have done this course in the XRT and LX4 and although the track is small, it can take up to 10-15 minutes if you dont hit anything in a larger vehicle. The cross is definitely the most challenging part. Just take it nice and slow

After watching some of canada's worst driver, i decided to try out some little obstacle courses of my own. However i came to a point when driving very slowly, i rubbed against a tire and the penalty counter started rising rapidly. normally it is 2 sec. but it had jumped from 30 (false start) all the way up to 11:54. I tried to recreate it and i did manage to get a similar situation, but the counter only went up to 2:48. It's not a big issue but its the small things that add up right? here's a replay....

+1

i find that switching between the xrt and bf1 is the worst... and having to change the volume can get a little annoying, but an alternative would be to just change the engine sound properties in shift+a.

I had also noticed that in the audio menu, when setting the slider for engine volume to 0, you can still hear the engine when it should be totally muted, could it be a bug?

I have two logtitech momo racing wheels and i use the pedals from the second contoller as a clutch. I had connected both wheels into the computer and set up the clutch pedal on the second controller in lfs. however, i am having a problem where the clutch wont engage in the car untill i release the pedal about 25%. I can move my foot quite a bit and get no response from the car, which means i only have 75% of the pedal motion to control the clutch. I am just wondering, has anyone else had this problem, or could it just be the fact that i have two contollers plugged in at once? i have tried numerous times to calibrate it, and i have set the clutch to all four separate pedals that i have, and still have the same problem any help would be great, thanks

edit: i notcied that when im in the menus and i move the pedal, the blue bar at the bottom right of the screen moves exactly with the pedal, just like it should. it seems that its only in-game that the clutch is unresponsive in the upper range of the pedal

Last edited by eric1123, Sun, 23 Dec 2007 05:43.

Well I recently had a problem with my momo racing wheel with the center going to left or right after a few mins. this was without heavy driving, just smooth oval racing. If you have this problem then this might help, especially if you have tried the wingman team utility for the momo center fix with no success.

I dont have any detailed pictures so ill try my best to decribe it . if you have opened up your wheel before then there is a good chance that that is whats causing your off center steering as debris could have gone into an important part. the back end of the motor in the wheel has 2 small black gears-one big and one small. You will notice that the larger gear has many tiny open spaces around it. you might have to open your wheel to know what im talking about. now on both sides of that gear are sensors, and they read every open space in that gear so they can see what position the wheel is in. This is just my educated guess, i dont know for sure. in my case, i found some kind of debris inside one of those spaces, causing the sensors to skip that position. Every time that blocked space passes the sensors, your losing a little bit of your wheel position, causing the off-centering after a few minutes.

All you have to do is remove the motor mount from the base and remove that important gear and clean it thoroughly. there are also two plugs that must be removed from the mainboard to allow the motor to come out freely. that should fix your problem

If you are having trouble taking apart your wheel, check out the site for help http://web.axelero.hu/mozso/momo_e1.html

This may not work for everyone, but its here for the people who need it. Here is a pic showing the small gear im talking about... if anyone has this problem then try this tip. It worked for me anyway i can try to describe in more detail if anyone needs me to.

uhh theres already a dbr9 skin. i use it all the time lol if you're going to make another one then make sure you try your best to make it better/more detailed or people might not want it. unless its for your own use then do whatever :P looks alright so far

well....how about a setting in the options menu that lets you adjust the name font size just like there is for the message size? i dont see how it would be too hard. Also, i know i could easily turn the names off when driving but when driving so close to people, i like to keep distractions to a minimum and not have to worry about turning names on and off.

I race oval quite a lot and whenever i get really close to someone, i often find i get blinded by their name. i think that when a player gets to within 20-10 feet of you, their name should begin to get smaller. either that or make improvements on aligning the name with the players car, because i noticed as you go faster, your name will get farther away from you. In this case, the other racers name goes right in front of my face and i can no longer see

oh ok so basically the only way to make a high res image from the original is to redo all the textures? I just thought there was a different way to do it because many of the high res textures I've seen I couldn't tell at all that they were redone by hand. Thanks for your replies

I just have a quick question....I've been seeing all of these new hi-resolution interiors and track textures lately and we all know they look amazing. Lately I've been trying to make my own textures and interiors. I never knew how to make those good looking hi-res ones though. I have photoshop and I have basic knowledge of it, but I just don't know how to increase the resolution of an image to make it sharper. Every time I make the image larger, it just gets blurry. I downloaded a replacement interior for the xrt and most of it was the same textures but in higher res, which is what i would like to do. Maybe I'm just missing something small ( I usually tend to skip the easiest things ) but if someone could help me out, that would be great.
Thanks, Jingles

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Haha a cow eh?....you're crazyillepall lol jk

it took me one minute, here ya go... and yea i know it looks grey but the game does that automatically so i dont think it will go away. just put the seat1.dds file in your data/dds folder

well it shouldnt....only if you use the smokemod as well then you will see a drop in fps. i havent noticed a difference though

lol no its actually just a cut from a pic of a car doing a burnout and i added a few small touches