Ricer (n) Owner of a small, cheap, japanese economy car that has been "upgraded" using shiny bits of metal cladding, overly-bright lights, vulgar body kits, oversized wheels, cut springs, and several stickers; all in the effort of looking "racy" and "cool" without having actually doing anything to the underlying mechanics of the car. Ricers are generally hated by any sane person. Also see: poser.
I lost quite a bit of respect for him the second he defected to NASCRAP. If you join the redneck racing league after being in the pinnical league of motorsport, it means that...
1. You're giving up. No, I won't go as far to say that NASCRAP is easy, but easier than than F1? Heck, yes.
2. You're a sell-out. No one joins NASCRAP for any other reason than money. Except, maybe, die-hard rednecks.
In sequential mode, I just go down through the gears as the revs approach the correct speeds the corresponding gears. If you wait until you're at the right speed for the target gear, you'll have to flick the shift-down button several times very quickly, which could result in accidentally going too far, or not far enough, down the gears.
In H-pattern mode, it's best to slow down to the desired speed, disengage the clutch (as in, press the clutch pedal), shift directly into the target gear, match the revs as necessary and re-engadge the clutch.
Um...sorry, but no. Jamming your foot to the floor in a FF will not give you a faster start. Even though you have the big lump of the engine at the front pushing down on the tires, basic physics will show you that, when you accellerate, weight is pushed towards the opposite side to the direction of accelleration. In other words, the faster you accellerate, the more weight is pushed towards the rear of the car and the less grip you'll have on the front wheels. This is why wheel-spin can actually be advantageous in a RWD setup.
Adding some weight to the front of the car will help you reduce wheel-spin. Beyond that, it's mostly a matter of practice for each car.
Wow, I thought my eyesight was pretty bad. I have progressives and multiple prisms in my glasses (big thick binoculars, basically), and I'm also very colourblind.
Obviously, I'm more fortunate than you in this case. I can't imagine losing my eyesight, even in just one side
I'm sure glad I use LCD monitors - never going to back to CRTs again!
Yes, but I think what he is talking about is that it is degrading far more rapidly.
Crap...sometimes (OK, most of the time), I'm just too lazy to excercise, but now you've really made me think
Great addon, just one thing I noticed: the lateral G's don't measure high enough. It tops out at just under 3 G's when driving the BF1. Realistically, it should measure up to at least 5 G's.
I'm not asking for an "advanced editor" (CSR does a great job of being that for me ), all I'm looking for is an option to balance out the various sounds in some more detail.
This is rather simple and doesn't have anything to do with gameplay, but an option to disable the screensaver and Windows power management settings (screen off, HDD off, suspend, etc.) would be very nice to have. My display has gone off because of no mouse/keyboard activity more than once during a race.
EDIT: Just finished a race and thought of something else: separate audio controls for different sound effects. Currently, any audio settings related to the car (engine, tires, collision, etc.) is all grouped together in one setting. I think there should be separate settings for:
- Engine
- Tires (squeal, screech, etc.)
- Collision
- Road noise
- Drive train
- Turbo
The main reason for this, for me, is so that I can better customize CSR. Eg.: I want CSR to handle the engine noise, but it doesn't do tire squealing/screeching nor collision, so I want LFS to handle those. But, LFS can only control all of those as one setting.
Other than that, I'm sure there are others who also want to customize the various sounds of their cars as well.