DiRT 3 is pretty awesome with my G25/27 on 360 degrees, love the fun and playability of it, FFB is spot on and gives you all the feedback you need, its the perfect mix between arcade and sim to make it great to have friends round and rag the crap out of it.
The Gymkhana side of it is so much fun its worth the RRP alone, have spent many hours throwing the car around with a huge grin on my face.
The mutliplayer also has some very fun modes, car 'tag' in the Gymkhana arena is my fav!
To not try it for yourself fella would be crazy...
Yeah i guess thats fair enough buddy, I can see your point, but as mentioned I umm'd and ahh'd about whether to go for an axis on my handbrake or a on/off switch. I decided in the end there was absolutely no point atall in wiring in an analogue switch as i would either want it on (full) or off, didnt see the point at all in having it variable...
Surely the point of a handbrake is to lock the rear wheels, in which case the variable tension is not needed, all it makes you do is pull the lever further to atually get the wheels to lock, so the first 80-90% of your pull is doing nothing but slowing you down slightly (which you have a foot brake for).
Do you ever use it 'half on' or 'half off'? Or just yank it up full when you need it?
Why would you want your handbrake to be on an axis anyway fella?
Surely when you use the handbrake you either want it on or off?
Ive never come across a moment (in sims or RL, drifing or racing) when i needed the handbrake on 'halfway'?
I have my cockpits real handbrake wired to a button, so as soon as i pull it more than an inch or two its fully on...
Just wondering why you decided to put it on an axis instead of a switch matee?
EDIT:
Aha, maybe you are forced to because you are using a joystick as an handbrake, seems i may have answered my own ponderings... D'oh
Last edited by B1gch0pper, .
Reason : Enlightened??
Yep, installed the above profiler version (before plugging the wheel in) after a new install of Windows, it tells you when to plug the USB in during install, worked straight off the bat?
I can only suggest un-installing the drivers you have (control panel/game controllers etc) unplugging the wheel and starting again, with the above profiler version...
Could be a conflict if you have any other USB controllers plugged in too?
I have 5x SATA HDD in my PC, my system drive is an 80Gb and I think is playing up, it gets a 5.4 on the Windows system ratings (everything else is high 7.x) and my system keeps BSOD every now and then with some error that when I Google it, says it has something to do with either writing to disk, or some file is corrupted.
I want to transfer my OS drive to another drive, I have a spare empty 250Gb in there and I want to use that. I have tried to use Driveimage XML to create an image and dump it onto the spare drive, which went ok, I then swapped the HDD cables over so the new drive is plugged into the old drives SATA slot on the motherboard, but when I try to boot it says operating system not found...
Is there an easier way to do this or am I missing something?
I know when you create a new system partition to install Windows on it creates another very small partition that holds boot data, am I doing something wrong where that is concerned?
Also would it be wise to try to image the (maybe) faulty disk, as would I image the corrupted files as well??
Personally I would say the biggest factor is down to UK motor insurance costs which are staggeringly high.
If you want to buy a second hand Ford Fiesta or Fiat Punto or equivalent the cars cost is VERY expensive because they are cheap(er) to insure and run (petrol etc). Anything with any power or bigger engine size or even the slightest bit sporty the insurance costs are ramped up to £1000's instead of £100's (and with petrol @ £1.35 per litre) these cars are generally cheap(er) than you would think...
Well I can only speak for myself but over the years I have really come to rely on the shift beep, and if it does not happen when it should, i.e. at the optimum point of shifting when the light appears which im so used to, then I see no reason to use it, it kinda becomes a little useless, as I have to either watch the speedo or for the shift light...
It was a toss up for me between versions 1.5.1 and 1.5.6/7, which did I want more the TS3 box to work or the shift beep, and I REALLY REALLY wanted the TS3 box to work, but I have stuck with 1.5.1 for the time being as it seems I feel something is missing without a correctly working shift beep, im so used to it now that if its not there I miss it, and the racing seems a little 'wrong'...
This setup feels great to me, even though you dont actually use all the 350 degrees rotation (think the lock is 220 or something) it allows the onscreen wheel to turn the same rotation as the wheel you are holding (shame you cant switch the on screen wheel off!), but still feels silky smooth
Im no FOX geek (as you can see from the vid lol) and its also very restrictive as in there no access to a keyboard, so no tyre temp, setup adjustments etc, just a wheel with spectate, join, and racing line toggle on the G25 buttons, but no new physics as far as I could tell, great fun tho.
Waiting for Steam to unlock it @ midnight tonight...
Cant wait, although i didnt play F1 2010 to death i still enjoyed it, if this is better it should be money well spent!
Does anyone happen to have a copy of version 1.5.5 that i can try please? Maybe it will be the best of both worlds and have the TS3 box working and the shift beep?
If anyone can help I would be really grateful
EDIT: Tried ver 1.5.6 i got from the Airio website and its still the same with the delayed shift beep
Last edited by B1gch0pper, .
Reason : Avoid double post...
Seems ver 1.5.7 has a small problem with the shiftbeep?
works fine on 1.5.1 but after updating to 1.5.7 the shift beep activates about half a second or so after the red shift light comes on the dash, only tried in FXR but it seemed to occur on open and closed config tracks...
Want to update to 1.5.7 for TS3 options to work
Well for a clutch pedal you could always just buy a cheap wheel and pedal set for around £10-£15 (saw lots on eBay yesterday while looking for you) and just put the new pedal set next to yours (to the left) to use the new pedals accelerator as a clutch...
I cant see there being any conflicts having 2x wheels installed together? (maybe someone from the community can confirm this?)