Try turning down the FFB in the game settings and turning it up in the drivers.

I'm using a CSL DD and have the FFB strength at 100% in the drivers, but have it set to 20 in-game.

Also make sure to max out the steps and rate.

I autocross and even club race with the SCCA.

I can't seem to get the hang of auto-x in LFS. It just doesn't have a good sense of speed to me.

Now the road courses are a different story. They definitely helped me; LFS has a great tire model and great FFB. (only 2nd to Assetto Corsa and ties with Iracing, in my opinion)

What car do you autocross? It doesn't happen to be a Mazda 2, does it? (that's what I have as a dd!) Great car; I love mine.

I just got mine. It's great. The FFB is nice and strong. Although I do not like the shifter, I'm constantly missing hears while heel toeing.

I did have the issue with the pedals at first. Did you happen to have your foot on the pedals while turning them on? My gas pedal range became skewed when plugging the pedals in with my foot on them.

Try adjusting the sensitivity of the load cell. (use the potentiometer) and possibly the spring. These pedals are meant to be customizable, which usually means they won't be 100% out of the box.

Quote from GrIp DrIvEr :

but it is a 350 LT1 in his T/A. Besides, it's a VERY rare '93 T/A GT (okay, maybe that doesn't matter), and he just rebuilt the heads and got some headers and other stuff for it and got 400 hp in the end. Also, it can do significant numbers since he got a K&N intake for $300. Check this link out. http://www.knfilters.com/kits.htm It even says a 2003 Mustang Cobra got an extra 30hp just for this intake. But, if I did get a Nissan 240SX, I can make the KA24DE engine stronger for a turbo, correct?

I wouldn't use the manufacture's test as proof for your argument. Odds are those results are exaggerated and are purely for marketing.

I have a 96 Miata; they say I can gain 6 hp. I know for a fact that is not possible. It would take me removing my AFM and a Megasquirt standalone (with tuning) just to see a 10hp gain.

I'm not saying you won't see a gain, but odds are they are being extremely generous with their results.

Last edited by tonyfreak215, Mon, 27 Apr 2009 17:19.

Quote from Nathan_French_14 :

Sure, it may be able to do 260hp on stock internals, but for how long?

Actually they are driven daily. The 1.8 Miata has a BP engine, which includes a forged crankshaft, piston oil squirters, and an aluminum baffled oil pan. It is not uncommon for NA and properly turboed motors to last 250K.

Quote from titanLS :

The skip is awful until you realize that to turn you have keep partial throttle applied to keep the weight over the rear, then it's really fun.

So It's basically like my Miata? If so, I can not wait until I get to drive it.

Quote from titanLS :

I've never driven a sim car that actually needed partial throttle to plant the rear tires, but it works overly well in iRacing's skip barber. Realistic or not, to go fast in that car as it is you have to left foot brake and ride the throttle a little, basically all the time. Stability and grip come alive.

Don't you have to do that to the XRT and XRG?


I would love to have them put in Spec Miatas. Although I guess the Skippy will suffice.

Quote from S14 DRIFT :

Consider getting an insanely fast Dual Core as QuadCore is actually slower in most games when compared to a Dual core of the same clock speed.

That only applies for right now as the software is not optimized for the Quads. Once that start happening you will see the difference. I'd rather spend a little but more and get a quad. Besides I can always overclock it.

@ Jakg: Thanks for pointing out the Samsungs F1s. It only adds $50 to my build, but adds about a third of the capacity.

What is a good cpu air cooler? I've heard that the Thermalright Ultra-120 eXtreme cannot be beat.

I've considered the Duals, but I plan on overclocking and I multi-task quite frequently. That is also why I'm picking up 8 gigs, although I doubt I will ever use all of it.

I will be using Vista 64, and will use my older monitor.

I was debating on the amount for the ram. I could always get more later.

I was planning on running them in a RAID 1 setup as this will also store all my files.

My old computer finally gave up the ghost (Athlon XP 2400 A7n8x HD 2850 AGP) so now i have to build a new one.
It would mostly be used for gaming, but every once in a while multitask.
I also wanted to have some room for upgrades/overclocking in the future.
I was also hoping to keep it under a grand.

My build:

Windows Vista 64bit
Sony GDM-5411 CRT Monitor from previous computer
Generic Case from Previous computer
BFG 650W power supply from previous computer
Q9300 - $245
Asus P5Q-E LGA - $145
Saphire HD 4870 1GB DDR5 - $265
8 GB (4X2) G. Skill DDR2 1066 RAM- $120
2 X WD 640GB 7200 RPM SATA3 Drive $150 at $75 each will run in a RAID 1 setup.
Samsung SATA DVD Burner- $28

That brings the total to $943.

What do you guys think?

Last edited by tonyfreak215, Thu, 27 Nov 2008 14:20. Reason : Added OS and Monitor

The higher and newer cards actually run better with the higher resolutions. At lower resolutions games become more CPU limited.

Have you looked into doing a slight overclock?

That i7 processor is overkill for just gaming unless you are running a SLI setup. Will you be using this for other things beside gaming? (video encoding, etc..)

Try updating the bios; you also might need to change the CPU Multiplier in the bios screen.

Hello everyone. I am new to LFS, but not new to racing games/sims. I used to play Sport Car GT, GTR, Forza 1/2 and Rfactor. I also autocross my 96 miata, and none of those games capture the feeling as well as LFS.

I really look forward to racing online with you guys.

I believe that the game lets you skip a lesson when you fail it multiple times.