Actually, racing LX6 around blackwood, there is a bump at the end of the last corner (that uphill left and then smooth right). With correct gear ratios, changing from 3rd to 4th on the bump results in some noticeable oversteer, you gotta be pretty quick to catch it
I actually started to play seriously soon after the CTRA started, so although I did have to struggle through some crappy racing in XFG (although I actually enjoy the XFG as a car), I quickly managed to get to more serious CTRA servers and that was where some of the best racing happened (before the removed the LX..).
However, after the breakup of CTRA the drivers you used to race with all went their way, and I figured I'd take a break.
Now, when I come back once in a while, the only place where you can have some good racing is the CR server, since the rest are either demo, cruise or highly-licensed ctra-copycats.
Anyways, good to see all the old faces show up, we still have some powder in our cannons (russian saying :nod
Scirocco still hasn't been finished, you'll know when it comes out, the forums will be hysteric
CTRA did inded close down, the admin sort of ran out of juice - it's a hard work keeping up those servers, at their level of quality. Pity, it used to be THE server to be on..
Can someone, who has a G25, post the accurate distance between the 2 screws, that attach the brake pedal plate to the brake pedal lever. In metric please
Great racing, I feel real rusty though, gotta get some practice with those TBO's.. Anyways, big kudos for getting this up and running!
BTW, what's up with everyone having a photoshopped 3-color avatar?
In a real racecar on a real track, it's nearly always possible to lock up the tyres (unless its a F1 or IndyCar with full downforce going at max speed). This is because the breakforce in a car is created by the pressure on the break pedal, and not by the distance it travels. Unfortunately, 99% of sim-pedals work by measuring the distance traveled. (For that reason, braking experience in LFS is not very useful for a real car)
So the decision very much depends on: 1) controller setup 2) car/track 3) driving style.
If you have a cheap set of pedals, it can be very hard to precisely modulate the brakes at the treshold of locking. However, Progressive Brake Mod (an impressive name for a piece of rubber which you put in your pedals), makes it a lot easier.
Also, to brake efficeintly in a downforce car, you need to decrease your brakeforce as you slow down. If you set your brakes too low, you are loosing precious time in the 1st part of the deceleration.
Then, on some tracks, where there is a braking section is on uphill, or downhill-going-into-flat, you can gain quite a bit of time by setting your brakes stronger than normal.
Basically, if your setup allows you to, its a good idea to set your brakes slightly above the locking treshold at max brake force.
I'd love to see you downshift in a FZR without a blip
On the subject, if you are using left foot to brake and no clutch, just try to blip the throttle a little when you are changing gears. When you press the flappy gear paddle, the clutch is pressed and that's when you should make the blip, to match the engine revs to gearbox revs.
On the topic, is there any way to change the value of the sliders in the Shift+U mode (FoV, Height, Roll etc) without actually showing them? Say I want the camera to be moving forwards and then rise up to 10 meters.. Is that possible?
Had a similar problem with my G25, it would randomly reset itselft to ~100* lock, with no way to change it back, except for reinstalling the drivers. However, downloading and installing the latest drivers from Logitech website solved that.
You might also want to check the "calibration lock" option in LFS settings.
Erm, I drive a g25 with full manual+H shifter.. And I somehow manage to keep my engine running through most crashes.. It takes a bit of practice, but after a while you learn to press the clutch before you crash, since most of the time you can anticipate it.
As the old saying goes, "when you spin, both feet in" (clutch+brake).
Then I assume you are suggesting that the "auto-clutch" function should not press the clutch so quickly in the event of a crash?