Quote from Silverracer :

Oh, sorry - no need to redownload LFS. I assumed that you only tried the wheel with TDU2 (and didn't have LFS to see if its works).

Sorry, can't be of any help here, good luck sorting it out mate.

I'm not one to throw out anything, but its time for a new wheel. If that doesn't work I'll install windows 7 Ult again.

Quote from Silverracer :

Have you only tried the wheel in TDU2? There seem to be a lot of issues (loss of ffb, dead zones, brakes etc) with TDU+wheel - so it might be that... (have a look in the LFSF's TDU2 thread: http://www.lfsforum.net/showthread.php?p=1554478#post1554478)

Have you tried to calibrate it via the Window's game controllers?

It might be worth to simply download LFS and see if it works ok.

The "drop outs" with the wheel axis occurs the entire time in is connected, regardless of the program. Or even if I'm at the desktop with no applications running.

When I'm in the Windows collaboration, where its asking for me to center the wheel. There is no force feedback or errors. But when I click next, it starts acting up again. Same with the Logitech collaboration aswell.

Are you saying to re download LFS? I have tried this wheel with GT5, LFS and TDU2.

Thanks for the reference I'll check that out. It was fine yesterday

Hello everyone,
Today my Logitech Driving Force Wireless just started acting a fool. Turning the wheel left and right, completely disables any force feedback and all control. You only get control again once you have centered the wheel.

I have or had the correct Logitech software and drivers installed. So, I tried updating and when that failed I tried a EX version but to no avail.

So when I was trying to calibrate the wheel, using the raw data I noticed the drop out on the right starts at 745 and the left drop out is about 250. So Its only "looking" between 250 and 745.

I don't think there is anything hardware wise that is wrong with the wheel.

The only thing I have done, before this started is I started mixing music via Native Intruments program Traktor and a USB midi controller. But I don't have it connected while I'm not using it (when I'm using the wheel).

No corrupt drivers.

Any suggestions?

Many many many thanks if you do, no LFS atm and I just purchased TDU2 and I really could use the advice.

Last edited by DeviantDigi, Wed, 9 Feb 2011 03:32.

Quote from shiny_red_cobra :

Good. Also, make sure you don't have any "Unknown Devices" in your device manager.

I do. I will see what I can do with it. Thanks alot Shiny

Found the fix,

Thanks to you guys I remembered my drivers weren't up to date. So I re activated my Driver Genius software and it installed everything and got me back up and racing.

The setup I needed was stated as:

Logitech Gaming Software
version 14.0.0.7
15.30mb
file name: win_vista-2k8-32-14.0.0.7a.zip

So that's what I needed. A simple setup and all axis work great.

thanks for your help, see you on the track (LFS S1: Digi)
-Digi

Quote from shiny_red_cobra :

Can you post the hardware ID like I've shown in the attachment?

Umm. . . Here's what I got. Wasn't to quite sure what I was looking for so I just copy and pasted all, all of the options I had relating to the wheel.





Also sorry for the image size, I'm haven't got Photoshop installed yet : F

Quote from Silverracer :

Have you tried using the Logitech Profiler?

Look up for the drivers for your specific wheel in the logitech site.

Do you have a link to any reviews/images for the "logitech wireless force"? I tried to look up drivers, but all I can find are ones for Driving Force Wireless (PC/PS2/3) and Speed force wireless (Wii). Both of which don't have pedals anyway...

This is the wheel I'm using and had used before with LFS.

http://www.logitech.com/en-us/ ... roduct&osid=&bit=
"There is no software available for this product." Its not specifically made for PC, but like I said in my previous post it was working perfect before I formatted. Also the controls for the pedals are behind the wheel (hand controlled).

Here are some pics to help explain what I'm having issues with:

Hello,
I recently formatted my HDD. Now I'm all caught back up and trying play some LFS. I'm using a Logitech Wireless Force, I noticed the configuration is different than what I had available in the setup before my format.

Simply put I'm missing an entire Axis. I went through the calibration config. in Windows where you center and depress the pedals. This time it didn't ask me to press the pedals.

Within LFS, I have the throttle/brake axis's separate. But I only have 2 axis to choose from (x & y) and the X axis is steering. Adding, the Y axis for the gas/brake isn't touch sensitive.

I don't exactly remember how many axis I had or what I did to make this work properly. But I didn't find setups from Logitech and all other threads weren't having this specific problem.

So any help would be greatly appreciated, atm I can't play LFS.

-Digi


Dell XPS Gen 4 3.4ghz
2GB Ram
Windows 7 Ult. 32 bit

Quote from Dik Dolan :

Getting there, glad it helped=)

One other thing, not sure if it's been mentioned earlier... Don't carry too much fuel around- the weight will rob you of a chunk of time. Most online races are short, so less than 10% fuel is plenty, 7 or 8% is perfect for the average 5 lap bl1 race.

Oh, and take Quinn up on his offer=) He has helped dozens, if not 100's of folk improve. He is great at advising on getting the basics right, and where to go from there. He knows his stuff!!

yeh sure thing,
I haven't competitively done any races over 5 laps so I only put the gas on like 5%.

Quote from Dik Dolan :

Here's the setup I use, was given to me by a team mate. PB with it is 1.33.4 I think, but more usual times are mid to high 33's in races.

I got a 1:35 quick, so it did help on the tuning aspect.

Thanks again bro,

Quote from JackSun :

Did you try what I said earlier in the thread.

The offer is still open

Try visiting the Redline Racing Demo server 1.

I'm on most evenings after 18:30 BST.

RedlineQuinn is my name.

I can usually help people get from 1:36.xx time to 1:34.xx.

My PB is 1:33.78.

Thanks for the offer JackSun. Yes I have been keeping a look out for that username, RedlineQuinn. But 18:30 BST is around 2-3 pm EST in the USA and I just started college ontop of working. So usually I only have time to play around 6 pm.

If you happen to see me, call me out and I'll do the same.

Really appreciate the help,

Quote from Dik Dolan :

Here's the setup I use, was given to me by a
team mate. PB with it is 1.33.4 I think, but more usual times are mid to high 33's in races.

Thanks Dolan. I've been busy lately but I'll check back and let you know how it goes using that setup and my pro like driving skills .

Can someone do me a huge favor?

Find a setup (something I can get my hands on). Get a low time (-.--<1:36) Then post the setup?

I still haven't had much luck, this way I can scratch off tuning from my fail list.

If your question is missing then Idk or can't comment.

2. How good are the AI, and can they be used in multiplayer? They seemed to not know I was there (for the most part) in the demo.

They are dumb, 95% of the time they will just plow through you at corners, If your slower of course. I just don't bother using the AI.

5. Any major stability issues? How is the multiplayer code?

I have had any crashes or anything when it comes to the actual games performance.

Reporting back,

I tried your suggestions, I'm a better driver but my times are slower. Go figure right :P? Hahaha

Last edited by DeviantDigi, Tue, 12 Oct 2010 03:39.

Here's a good place to start:

http://www.logitech.com/en-my/gaming

I use a Logitech Wireless force, It has no pedals or shifter. The gas and brake are controlled by the "flaps?" behind the wheel and the L1 and R1 are right next to your thumbs. Its a decent, yet cheap wheel. It does get a bit loud while fighting against the motor though.

IMO, The G27 is the best wheel out there. Same thing as the G25 really just the shifter and wheel motor are more quite.

G27:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V5-BowDSEc0
G25:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=My-stwgRI50
Wireless force:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8a-u8is3XI0

I would get the wheel 1st then get a license. You definably want to get something S1 or s2 whatever you can afford. I just bought a S1, the content is great but what I have noticed is there isn't that many s1 servers. So the content has to be used when those servers are up. I don't know about s2 servers though it appears there are alot of subs so hopefully there will be more variety.


I don't know if it works with, it should but hey there you go.
Also you got the 360's wheel:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v ... yJOe4&feature=related

Good luck,

Last edited by DeviantDigi, Mon, 11 Oct 2010 07:36.

Quote from Si Mclaren :

The big difference between a good and a slow lap is:

1. Dont smash the throtle, if you make a turn with care, even though you think you're slow, you'll do a 1:07 2nd split...

2. The 3rd split. I can do a 1:07 2nd split but my pb is 1:34.48, the big difference in the lap is the 3rd split.

I agree,
These or you 1:33 people must be machines with big metal balls. I mean being able to constantly do these low time laps without screwing up a single turn and while racing others.

One thing I did notice, on the first turn I get alot of under steer if I try to keep with the packs pace. What should I adjust to make my front tire stick better? I understand line and speed all play a part of this but if I had to adjust something where would I start?

The more the merrier,
But if I have to be specific. I like civilian type cars, so anything far and in between a Honda R or a Skyline GTR. Everything Nissan, nothing hyundai. I'm hoping Forza volume, but would prefer quality over quantity.

Quote from FPVaaron :

I think it would be nice to have a rim changing option, not talking about blinged out 20's I mean just change the "rim style" keeping the wheel same weight and diameter. just add a bit of individuality to cars along with the tires.

Bump,
I feel the customization is lacking.

Quote from hp999 :

My PB -

0:30.060
1:07.060
1:33.840

My PB is roughly

.30
1.09
1.37

Thanks for sharing is must be taking the last two turns wrong. Replays I have seen the last turn they slide out to the others sides apex. My runs are pretty stable through there. So I'll try to push it.

Srry if your offended by big text. On my screen it doesn't look that big. My nose isn't touching the monitor either.

Here's my replay of a GTI on BL. Its a 1:38 on the second lap. I wanted to post my average lap time and usual drive.

I used the 4 set down on infernos listings for GT on BL. Brakes were on 600 and at 70% to the front I believe.



[NR]pittpulga 1:12.290


http://setupfield.teaminferno. ... ar_id=50&p_version=S2

Quote from bbman :

[RANT]
But as pointed out, with a replay we could analyze best what's wrong and where you could/should gain the most improvement...

Now I understand the the patch 1:33 theory is ruled out. I have to agree, I am doing something wrong.

I'll get to work on the replays and I just got my S1 so hopefully I can get a better understanding.

Quote from Silverracer :

Hey there, have a go via paypal. If you have a paypal account, you can use that. If not, you can still pay via paypal simply entering your bank details (or card details, not sure about that), without having to open a paypal account.

So you pay paypal, and paypal will pay LFS. Job *fingers crossed* done!

<---Check it out!

Thanks for the recommendation, Paypal worked.
I called up the visa gift card reps, and it appears they suck. They were having complications or something, but the card wouldn't activate for 3 hours after I ACTIVATED! it, lol. But even so, they Visa debit option would not work. But thanks again, I didn't know Paypal worked like that and it was very easy.

Props!
-Digi

Quote from jasonmatthews :

Your text is too big, I cannot help as anything other than normal text doesn't work for 99% of the LFS users...

My bad.

Quote from EeekiE :

The latest patch included physics updates, which would affect any highly tweaked, knife edge setups, or any setups that, although not cheating, were having an undesired effect on the earlier physics version, that has since been revised.

I'm not sure if it's available to demo racers, but you could try using the Hotlap Analyser on lfsworld.net, and compare an average lap of yours, to one that's a second quicker, and see where your braking points and lines differ as an example.

Thanks for the recommendation, I will check that out sounds really useful.


I did snatch up a few 1:32 replays (hotlaps). I test drove them and it kinda gave me an example of what it requires to make such a good lap. Even after watching the replay, I still couldn't get anything under 1:36.

Quote from dadge :

what's your control method? keyboard, mouse, joypad, joystick or wheel? do you have a replay we could view so that we can see where you're going wrong?
my pb since the last patch:
1st split: 0:30.050
2nd split: 1:07.170
lap time: 1:33.730
the trick is to try to keep as much momentum through the corners. try to turn (your steering wheel) only as much as is needed. scrubbing your tyres will cost you speed. more info can be offered once you upload a replay.

I'm using a Logitech Wireless Force. Its a cheap wheel but it gets the job done.

On the replay, I don't have one at the moment. I will definably post something up, sometime tomorrow. Perhaps using a few of my better setups and we can analyze how they perform.

Thank you & appreciate your help,

Hello,

I have contacted lfs about the problem but I'n hoping I'm not the 1st here.

I'm trying to buy a S1 license with my Pre Paid Visa debit card but it gets declined. It has $50 on it, an yes I'm from the good ole' USA so do you guys think that plays a part in the decline? I have tried, re tried, and made sure every number and letter is correct. I don't know...It sucks.

Please drop your 2 bits, I would really appreciate it.
Thanks,

Last edited by DeviantDigi, Sun, 10 Oct 2010 03:36.

Hello,

I have been playing LFS for awhile now. Being the new guy I didn't care if I wasn't as fast as the other guy, but now its getting old. Not being able to beat my best, a high 1:36 with the GTI on Blackwood. That time would fly, but alot of others are getting around 1:33.
I have tried multiple setups claiming a low time but I haven't really seen a big difference. I'm not a bad driver, my downfall is consistency but I can put down a smooth pass.

I can accept I'm not as fast as long as its a fair competition. While reading other posts about this subject. I came across one that stated "I haven't seen any 1:33 since the game was patched." On that note are these fast racers cheating or taking advantage?